BJ8 will not start

[drdave]

Greetings, I have a BJ8 that has been sitting for 6+ months with fuel additive in the tank. I have checked the spark from the top of the inside of the distributer to the engine and it is good. I don't get a spark from the spark plug wires to the engine. I have an electronic ignition conversion. I cleaned the rotor and the contacts on the inside of the distributer with electronic contac cleaner. When I turned the engine over it caught right away but would only run for about 20 seconds then die. It did this on three consecutive occasions with the contact cleaner, so I cleaned the points with sand paper and the car would not start. Any suggestions??

 

[drambuie]

Try changing out your coil with a spare one! and check to see if there are any loose connections first. If your problem still persists, I would suspect your electronic ignition.

 

[Deleted member 8987]

Greetings, I have a BJ8 that has been sitting for 6+ months with fuel additive in the tank. I have checked the spark from the top of the inside of the distributer to the engine and it is good. I don't get a spark from the spark plug wires to the engine. I have an electronic ignition conversion. I cleaned the rotor and the contacts on the inside of the distributer with electronic contac cleaner. When I turned the engine over it caught right away but would only run for about 20 seconds then die. It did this on three consecutive occasions with the contact cleaner, so I cleaned the points with sand paper and the car would not start. Any suggestions??

I have read this three times, and still am not certain what " I have checked the spark from the top of the inside of the distributer to the engine and it is good." means. Does this mean you have spark from the coil wire where it connects to the distributor cap?
Pull that wire and hold it next to the engine and you have good spark?
And nothing from the plug wires?
By all means, change the coil.
If that doesn't work, try the rotor, and look for carbon tracks inside and outside the distributor cap.

 

[Deleted member 8987]

Oh, and if you used sandpaper on the points, put new ones in and a condensor, and don't even think about saving the old points for spares.
Unless you used no coarser than 1000 grit and cleaned them afterwards.

 

[Keoke]

Clean it all up good again with contact cleaner and set the choke full on.

 

[GregW]

I have read this three times, and still am not certain what " I have checked the spark from the top of the inside of the distributer to the engine and it is good." means.

I'm in the same boat, also most Healey electronic ignition conversions don't have points.??

 

[Bob_Spidell]

Greetings, I have a BJ8 that has been sitting for 6+ months with fuel additive in the tank. I have checked the spark from the top of the inside of the distributer to the engine and it is good. I don't get a spark from the spark plug wires to the engine. I have an electronic ignition conversion. I cleaned the rotor and the contacts on the inside of the distributer with electronic contac cleaner. When I turned the engine over it caught right away but would only run for about 20 seconds then die. It did this on three consecutive occasions with the contact cleaner, so I cleaned the points with sand paper and the car would not start. Any suggestions??

A gas engine needs two things to run: 1) proper fuel/air mixture in the cylinder and 2) spark at the plugs at the appropriate time (good compression, timing, etc. are assumed for now).

Pull off one of the spark plug boots and hold the metal terminal close to metal--use insulated pliers else shocked you will be--on the engine while cranking. You should see a half-inch or longer spark fire several times a second; if not, you have an ignition problem.

If good spark, disconnect the ground line to the coil--to protect the electronic ignition, which I suspect is a Pertronix Ignitor--and disconnect the fuel line where it connects to the front carburettor. Stick the end of the fuel line in a jar and turn the key--you should get regular gushes of gas as the pump attempts to fill the (disconnected) float bowls, and as gas fills the jar there should be no air bubbles. If not, you have a fuel delivery problem (likely the pump--which I suspect is your problem). If you have an SU points-based fuel pump the points can get a coating--tungsten oxide, I suspect--from nonoperation that will cause the pump to, well, not pump. NOTE: Reconnect any loose ignition connections before attempting to pump gas. Make sure you're in a ventilated area and there are no sources of ignition--water heaters, etc.--nearby. NEVER UNDERESTIMATE THE VOLATILE, EXPLOSIVE POWER OF GASOLINE.

Let us know what you find out.

 

[Barefoot]

Fresh gas will help

 

[MarkP]

I think all would like clarification of the following....

- I have checked the spark from the top of the inside of the distributer to the engine and it is good.

- I don't get a spark from the spark plug wires to the engine.


Precisely how was each test completed?

 

[drambuie]

You stated you are not getting spark to the plugs or a weak spark! This is not a fuel problem! check to see if your plugs are black in color or are "fouled" Change out your coil with a known good coil! Yes, change your rotor as well, check for a cracked cap, Look for any loose connections and wires. Check to see if your battery is fully charged. do these simple things first. If your problem still persist.... I then suspect you have a electronic ignition problem. Michael, IL.

 

[Keoke]

Hi Greg

I'm in the same boat, also most Healey electronic ignition conversions don't have points.?

This is true for most comercial systems but many DIY systems use the points to trigger the electronics. The advantage here is the points are now switching vey low current and last a long time.

 

[GregW]

Yeah, I could have had the points. I'm using a Mallory dual point with a Pertronix as a trigger for a Jacobs iggy. I'd figure about 90% of the electronic conversions are the Ignitor though. Hopefully DrDave will come back to give some clarification.