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Front suspension

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GaryBeu

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So the thread I started awhile back about fixing my MGB front suspension seems to be lost to me. I'm finally ready to start but have a couple of questions. I'll be replacing the tie-rod ends to start with. Do I need to remove the coil springs to do this? Where should I put the jack stands in the front? Probably questions you can't believe that I need to ask but...I'm REALLY ignorant :smile: Thanks.

Gary
 
Gary, I place the jack stands under the spring pan toward the outside close to the wheel. You should not have to remove the springs just to change the tie rod ends. Break the lock nut loose, hold the rod, some have a flat for a wrench and unscrew the old end. Just reverse the procedure to put the new ones on. PJ
 
When you remove the old tierod ends CAREFULLY count the number of turns. Replace the new tierod ends the SAME number of turns. This will give you very little to no change in the alignment (toe in) and will enable you to drive, carefully, until you can get to an alignment shop. Either a wrench on the flat of the tie rod, near the end, or sturdy visegrips should kieep the tierod from turning. The tierod MAY turn in the rack but it is not important. Mark the relationship of the lock nut and the tierod in case you do not get an accurate thread count. Bob
 
Bob Claffie said:
When you remove the old tierod ends CAREFULLY count the number of turns. Replace the new tierod ends the SAME number of turns. This will give you very little to no change in the alignment (toe in) and will enable you to drive, carefully, until you can get to an alignment shop. Either a wrench on the flat of the tie rod, near the end, or sturdy visegrips should kieep the tierod from turning. The tierod MAY turn in the rack but it is not important. Mark the relationship of the lock nut and the tierod in case you do not get an accurate thread count. Bob
Click to expand...

I remember years ago, don't know if an LBC or naught......always did that, counted carefully (and left the nut alone to make sure), and the silly thing was undriveable.
Looked closely, and the new parts were longer than the old ones. c/l of stud to end the threaded part.

ARRRGGHHHH.
 
Thanks guys...I'll try to be careful and COUNT turns. !!
 
Gary,
You may want to measure from some point on the tie rod to the center stud on the old tie rod end. When I did this last year, my new tie rod end were not as same as the old one and counting turns did not help. Had to put the old one on, measure and then put the new ones on. It's not a difficult job.
 
Counting turns is a great idea if you disassemble and put it back together. But before re-installing a new tie rod end, make sure the overall length of the unthreaded portion of the part is identical to your old one. If that length is different, counting threads won't help. In either case go to an alignment shop or borrow a racing buddy's camber tool and dial it in. Best of luck. Basil 707.762.0974 basiladams@yahoo.com (I'm not the "Basil" that runs this site but that is my real name)
 
Use a fixed measurement! From the very center of the ball-joint stud out to a place on the rod. 6" works fine, a set of old drafting dividers is a good tool for this. Set the dividers at exactly 6", center one end on the ball-joint stud, mark the rod with the other. Reassembly with the mark and stud at the same measurement. Easy-peasy and no alignment required (if it was correct to begin with!).
 
Thanks all...I'm gonna go to work on it today. I'll keep you posted.
 
DrEntropy said:
Use a fixed measurement! From the very center of the ball-joint stud out to a place on the rod. 6" works fine, a set of old drafting dividers is a good tool for this. Set the dividers at exactly 6", center one end on the ball-joint stud, mark the rod with the other. Reassembly with the mark and stud at the same measurement. Easy-peasy and no alignment required (if it was correct to begin with!).
Click to expand...

Docs right on! This is the best way to keep things as close to original measurements as possible. Thread count and lock nut position doesn't work all the time anymore, due to the variations in the new tie rod ends measurements. Some new ones are considerably longer, some enough so, you cant get the proper toe in without running a couple more threads down the rods. If your into originality, make sure the new ones have grease fittings, the last ones I got from Moss didn't! PJ
 
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