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TR2/3/3A Still battling the clutch slave. adjustment.....

karls59tr

Yoda
Bronze
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I tried bleeding the slave cylinder but did not see any bubbles only fluid? The transmission is in neutral. I have the driveshaft disconnected at the transmission currently so I can see there that when I push the clutch pedal all the way down the transmission gear is free to rotate but the stick shift is locked tight in neutral. Any ideas on how to proceed?
 
Do I understand that you cannot move the stick shifter lever at all? It is totally jammed? Or does it move on center and just not into gear? Is this engine running or off?
 
Yes it is jammed. The car is still up on jacks. I just finished reinstalling the transmission that I had removed in order to take out some starter parts that were lodged in the bell housing. I have the bracket and slave set up according to one of your older posts. It's a TR6 trans with the stock TR3 clutch. I would like to try gravity bleeding the clutch in case that is the issue. To gravity bleed I remove the slave cylinder but I am not sure at what height it should be for the process and if it should just be hung with the bleed valve at the top. Also how much back and forth movement should there be in the shaft lever when it is not connected to the slave cyl or linkage? 2"? Maybe the clutch disc has slipped down when I installed the trans but everything seemed to line up Ok at the time. I used two threaded rods at 2 an 10 clock to slide the trans on and with the usual struggle the trans went in. Not sure how to proceed? Any Ideas?
 
Mine looks like Steve's. That is not what the Clymer manual shows. If your pressure plate is in contact with the flywheel, you don't have "slippage". Did you put the disc in with the "taller" side of the center away from the flywheel? Did you take the shifter apart in any way? Bleeding is accomplished with the slave in place. The bleeder points up. Re: post 4: It was running when he took it apart. Clutch assy is the issue.
Bob
 
I think the clutch is a red herring. It sounds like something is jammed. Does the engine turn over?
The thing is the car is on jack stands waiting for the new hi torque starter that will arrive on July 6th. I pulled the trans to remove broken starter pieces and seeing how I was already in there I replaced the worn out clutch. The transmission is mounted up to the motor OK but something is not right. The driveshaft is currently disconnected at the trans. The shaft in the trans turns OK when the clutch pedal is pushed to the floor. The gear shift lever is straight up and in neutral. The gear shift will not budge. I'm going to try and gravity bleed the slave cylinder.
 
Mine looks like Steve's. That is not what the Clymer manual shows. If your pressure plate is in contact with the flywheel, you don't have "slippage". Did you put the disc in with the "taller" side of the center away from the flywheel? Did you take the shifter apart in any way? Bleeding is accomplished with the slave in place. The bleeder points up. Re: post 4: It was running when he took it apart. Clutch assy is the issue.
Bob
Well it is possible that I have the clutch disc in backwards (mild dyslexia strikes again} If the disc is in wrong would that seize everything up as I described even if the trans bellhousing would still mounted up to the motor normally? I should have asked the forum about the "taller' side of the disc being away from the flywheel before reassembly. Doh!
 
I’ve heard that installing a disc backward can freeze a clutch, but that’s interesting about your shifter being jammed. I once had my shifter totally freeze up. It was alarming since I was in traffic. I had a hunch what it was, and I was right. That anti-rattle button fell out and had jammed the rods. I replaced the button with a new one, as well as a new spring. Two weeks later that one jammed and I couldn’t shift at all. Frozen. Now I run that car, TR4A, with no button at all in the shifter. My point is that anti-rattle button is capable of freezing a shifter.
 
I’ve heard that installing a disc backward can freeze a clutch, but that’s interesting about your shifter being jammed. I once had my shifter totally freeze up. It was alarming since I was in traffic. I had a hunch what it was, and I was right. That anti-rattle button fell out and had jammed the rods. I replaced the button with a new one, as well as a new spring. Two weeks later that one jammed and I couldn’t shift at all. Frozen. Now I run that car, TR4A, with no button at all in the shifter. My point is that anti-rattle button is capable of freezing a shifter.
That is something to look out for. Does the gear shift lever rattle at all without the spring and button?
 
Surprisingly, not at all.

By the way, when you say the shifter is frozen, have you tried reverse? That was the only way I could slightly dislodge that button prior to removing the console.
 
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