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Cloudy plastic headlight restoration
- Thread starter NutmegCT
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Nothing is impossible unless there are cracks in it.
Sanding with waterproof (automotive) sandpaper with grit 1000, 2000 and 3000 and then polishing with a machine.
Sanding is necessary to remove the existing top layer. This layer usually becomes dull or yellow from sunlight and oxidation.
Most kits contain reasonable quality sandpaper and polish.
Changing direction between the different sanding grits helps to see if previous scratches are gone.
Don't forget to protect the lens, a topic for a similar discussion... ;-)
Sanding with waterproof (automotive) sandpaper with grit 1000, 2000 and 3000 and then polishing with a machine.
Sanding is necessary to remove the existing top layer. This layer usually becomes dull or yellow from sunlight and oxidation.
Most kits contain reasonable quality sandpaper and polish.
Changing direction between the different sanding grits helps to see if previous scratches are gone.
Don't forget to protect the lens, a topic for a similar discussion... ;-)
Mine on a Porsche were done as described above by BigGreen. The sanding and polishing process was done with machines, by an automotive painter friend of mine, and were then were finished off with a couple of coats of clear sprayed on. They still look like new a few years later.
OP
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Like this?
www.theartofdoingstuff.com
How to Clean Headlights. From Cloudy to Clear.
Since they started making car headlights out of plastic, car drivers have been trying to figure out how to clean them.Toothpaste? Um, no. This is how to professionally clean your cloudy car headlights yourself.
www.theartofdoingstuff.com
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Honestly Tom just get a kit - Amazon or pretty much any auto supply store. https://www.amazon.ca/3M-39193-Head...260132&sprefix=headlight+,aps,132&sr=8-9&th=1
Walmart has them for ten bucks
Walmart has them for ten bucks
OP
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"Honestly Tom just get a kit"
Thanks JP. I seem to have tried your patience! This has happened before.
Most folks know me as someone who tries to get info from people who have knowledge of the products I'm looking for. As a retired teacher, I don't have much money to experiment with, and can't just toss money around. I've tried other ideas for "just buy [whatever]" and ruined what I was working on. Got my money back for the product, but now had a permanently damaged wooden cabinet.
Sorry to have tripped your lever!
Tom M.
Thanks JP. I seem to have tried your patience! This has happened before.
Most folks know me as someone who tries to get info from people who have knowledge of the products I'm looking for. As a retired teacher, I don't have much money to experiment with, and can't just toss money around. I've tried other ideas for "just buy [whatever]" and ruined what I was working on. Got my money back for the product, but now had a permanently damaged wooden cabinet.
Sorry to have tripped your lever!
Tom M.
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Hi Tom,
Although there are special products for plastic, a polish for paint works well. These have a grain that slowly shrinks and can thus get rid of the fine scratches. Please check that the polish does not contain petroleum distillate. Don't use polishes for metal or aluminium. It must smell neutral otherwise it can affect plastic.
Although there are special products for plastic, a polish for paint works well. These have a grain that slowly shrinks and can thus get rid of the fine scratches. Please check that the polish does not contain petroleum distillate. Don't use polishes for metal or aluminium. It must smell neutral otherwise it can affect plastic.
OP
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Bedankt voor je hulp!
I'd never even heard of paint polish before, and certainly didn't know about the danger of using one with distillates.
This weekend we're going to try the sandpapers technique. Maybe a someone will benefit from our before - during - after photos and experience. And as they say ...
Dankje!
Tom M.
I'd never even heard of paint polish before, and certainly didn't know about the danger of using one with distillates.
This weekend we're going to try the sandpapers technique. Maybe a someone will benefit from our before - during - after photos and experience. And as they say ...
Dankje!
Tom M.
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Just throwing this out there; hopefully won't "cloud" the issue... 
But I wonder if a clay bar would be effective...
But I wonder if a clay bar would be effective...
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I certainly am!All things are in "the cloud" these days. So even BCF is "cloudy", right?
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Normally, a claybar only works for dirt that has adhered to a surface. It works less if a layer of the surface itself is affected.
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Nope didn't try my patience as all. More making the point that sometimes it is easier and quicker just to grab what you need at the store.
My father was a very clever man and could do almost anything around the house (he was a civil and mechanical engineer) However, he would constantly nail together 2 or three pieces of wood when he just needed to go to the store and buy one. I inherited this from him - and I do love a good workaround or frugal fix - but I have come to realize that sometimes it is easier and quicker and cheaper just to get the part or kit you need.
You need a kit in any case.... After you polish the headlight, you need to put a new layer of protective coating on the headlight.
I did the headlights on my Nissan about 2 years ago with the Meguiar Headlight kit. the headlights were in very ugly condition when I got the car... a combination of oxidized and burned in brown dust. I carefully sanded with fine wet/dry paper to get the worst of this mess off before polishing with the stuff in the kit. The clean step in the kit leaves the plastic looking whitish but the finishing spray turned them crystal clear instantly. -- Exactly like the BMW Tom showed at the beginning of this thread.
As with any spray, a few light coats is better than gunking it on. After 2 harsh summers, the top of the headlights are starting to get that brown burned look (from burned in dust / intense sun) again. This time a quick easy polish with the cleaning stuff in the kit should clean them up nicely and then a spritz from the finish and they should be back to new again.
As always - spend the time on prep.. the better the prep job the better the final result. Sand and polish the surface and mask off everything around the headlight.
By the way, Project Farm looked at these kits shortly after I did mine.. some kits had longer lasting results, some less.. I used what was available locally and it work perfectly well. With the intense summer sun here, no plastic will last an really long time.
I did the headlights on my Nissan about 2 years ago with the Meguiar Headlight kit. the headlights were in very ugly condition when I got the car... a combination of oxidized and burned in brown dust. I carefully sanded with fine wet/dry paper to get the worst of this mess off before polishing with the stuff in the kit. The clean step in the kit leaves the plastic looking whitish but the finishing spray turned them crystal clear instantly. -- Exactly like the BMW Tom showed at the beginning of this thread.
As with any spray, a few light coats is better than gunking it on. After 2 harsh summers, the top of the headlights are starting to get that brown burned look (from burned in dust / intense sun) again. This time a quick easy polish with the cleaning stuff in the kit should clean them up nicely and then a spritz from the finish and they should be back to new again.
As always - spend the time on prep.. the better the prep job the better the final result. Sand and polish the surface and mask off everything around the headlight.
By the way, Project Farm looked at these kits shortly after I did mine.. some kits had longer lasting results, some less.. I used what was available locally and it work perfectly well. With the intense summer sun here, no plastic will last an really long time.
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Thanks - makes sense.
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I just did mine with Crest, an effective decay preventive dentifrice that can be of significant value when used in a conscientiously applied program of oral hygiene and regular professional care. Not like new, but a big improvement.
Bob
Bob