TR6 Clutch issue

[Triumphant]

Hi TR6ers!
I was having some difficulty changing gears and my clutch pedal seemed a bit soft so I decided to bleed the slave cylinder (it was replaced a couple of years ago). The fluid in my master cylinder was low when I initially checked it. After topping up and bleeding the air out, the pedal did not seem to stiffen. It now seems more difficult to change gears. There is no loss of fluid. The slave cylinder is moving the clutch shaft at least 1/2”.

Any thoughts of what I could try before changing the clutch?

Thanks,

Ian from Ontario

 

[NutmegCT]

Ian - does the fluid level rise in the m/c when you push the clutch pedal, then fall when you release the pedal?

 

[Gliderman8]

Could be a broken fork pin.

 

[Triumphant]

The fluid level doesn’t seem to move. If it does, it’s the width of a hair or two.

 

[NutmegCT]

Ian - take a look:

How To Bleed a Clutch Slave Cylinder | Moss Motors

mossmotors.com

Seems there are many ways to bleed the system, but only one to get *all* the air out.

TM

 

[Triumphant]

Ian - take a look:

How To Bleed a Clutch Slave Cylinder | Moss Motors

mossmotors.com

Seems there are many ways to bleed the system, but only one to get *all* the air out.

TM

Thanks TM. Seems like we have more pedal pressure (although only through the last 2/3rds of push) and movement between gears is much better.

Appreciated!

Ian

 

[KVH]

I think you might also be sure you've adjusted the slave rod correctly. We discussed this in a recent post, assuming your 6 operates like a 4. That .10 inch clearance for the rod (or spec for your TR6) means "after" you've pushed the rod in to take up any space. The piston should be all the way back, but the slave rod should not be so tight to the piston that the clutch lever and fork are moving. Also, I sure hope Blaine Graham is still doing Moss videos. He's great.

 

[Triumphant]

I think you might also be sure you've adjusted the slave rod correctly. We discussed this in a recent post, assuming your 6 operates like a 4. That .10 inch clearance for the rod (or spec for your TR6) means "after" you've pushed the rod in to take up any space. The piston should be all the way back, but the slave rod should not be so tight to the piston that the clutch lever and fork are moving. Also, I sure hope Blaine Graham is still doing Moss videos. He's great.

Hi KVH, I’m not sure I understand your statement. Are you saying that the slave rod should not push the piston to bottom out? Makes sense! Regarding …‘slave rod should not be so tight…that the clutch lever and fork are moving’…how would one adjust this?

Thanks for your help!

 

[KVH]

When you unscrew the rod to push that piston back into the slave cylinder, right before you adjust for the .10 inch clearance, be sure you’re not unscrewing so tight that you’re now actually pushing on the clutch lever at the opposite end of the slave rod fork (i.e., that lever dangling down from the transmission).

You will push on it a bit, of course, but be careful that you’re not actually moving the mechanism.

Hope that’s more clear.

 

[Triumphant]

When you unscrew the rod to push that piston back into the slave cylinder, right before you adjust for the .10 inch clearance, be sure you’re not unscrewing so tight that you’re now actually pushing on the clutch lever at the opposite end of the slave rod fork (i.e., that lever dangling down from the transmission).

You will push on it a bit, of course, but be careful that you’re not actually moving the mechanism.

Hope that’s more clear.

Got it! Thanks for clarifying!