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TR2/3/3A TR2 head studs

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L

Lockheed-driver

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Hello All. I’m looking for some advice regarding head studs…
I recently took the head off my engine to get new valve guides and valves installed. The head and block haven’t been separated for at least 40 years and because the old head studs were a swine to get out I decided to buy a new set of 10.
I was torquing up the head bolts in the correct order and in increments of 25 ft/lbs with a plan to reach 100ft/lbs as per the workshop manual. I didn’t get that far. All ten had achieved 50ft/lbs and I started torquing up no1 stud .. when it sheared. I estimate it failed around 60 ish ft/lbs. A guess… more than 50 and not 75.
Head removed. Broken stud removed after some gentle persuasion… phew!! All other studs removed.
The stud looks like it failed where the thread channel stops. Anyway … spoken to Uk supplier and I’m returning all studs as I now have now faith in this particular batch.
Having spoken to a local engine builder .. he said the older studs were probably of better quality of metal and why not use again.
What are your thoughts wise ones? Use the old? Are there any uk suppliers who sell studs of updated metal?
Anyone else had a silimar situation?
All advice gratefully received.
 
I am trying to get my tr2 on the road also, so glad to hear they are still out there. I have never bought new studs and rebuild a handful of these engines. When you put the engine studs in the block, either old or new studs, put them in hand tight or there is a possibility of cracking the block. Evidently the tongue can compound and make the final torque above a 100lb and do damage.

steve
 
My recommendation: Just bite the bullet and get the ARP studs. Shop around a bit, and you can find them at a price not much greater than the standard ones.

When you do the math, you discover that that 100 ft lbs of torque is about the limit of a grade-8 fastener.
 
The old studs are fine. There is a lot of superstition on this issue because people don't understand that stretched studs go back to their original length when the nut is removed unless they have been seriously over torqued. Google modulus of elasticity.
Bob
 
sp53 said:
I am trying to get my tr2 on the road also, so glad to hear they are still out there. I have never bought new studs and rebuild a handful of these engines. When you put the engine studs in the block, either old or new studs, put them in hand tight or there is a possibility of cracking the block. Evidently the tongue can compound and make the final torque above a 100lb and do damage.

steve
Click to expand...
Hi Steve Not sure what you mean by "the tongue can compound"? Karl
 
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