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TR2/3/3A Update on the head gasket repair......something is not right/

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K

karls59tr

Obi Wan
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I fired up the TR3 today. It starts good and the engine runs well. After a minute or two I saw white steam coming from the header and manifold side. Took a look under the hood I saw that I had left off a hose clamp at that small hose from the thermostat housing so I assumed that the fan was blowing coolant into that manifold area. Fixed that but when I started it today the same thing happened. Drove a few feet out of the garage and noticed that white steam coming off the header and manifold area. Hard to see the block because of the carbs and heat shields blocking the view. Anyway even though the motor was not really up to temperature I re torqued the head. Going to check the valve gaps tomorrow and then fire it up and see what happens. I suspect the head gasket did not hold???:unsure:
 
I would have a mechanic's mirror handy for the start-up tomorrow. That and a really good shop light. It will be very important to locate where the leak is originating. Also, Autozone and O Reilly's will loan you a coolant leak checker, that pressurizes the cooling system to give you time to look for the leak. If you have a stock heater, do not pressurize over 4psi. Without the stock heater you can go quite a bit higher on the pressure.
 
CJD said:
I would have a mechanic's mirror handy for the start-up tomorrow. That and a really good shop light. It will be very important to locate where the leak is originating. Also, Autozone and O Reilly's will loan you a coolant leak checker, that pressurizes the cooling system to give you time to look for the leak. If you have a stock heater, do not pressurize over 4psi. Without the stock heater you can go quite a bit higher on the pressure.
Click to expand...
Because of the long neck on the TR3 radiator I wonder if the coolant needs to be right at the top when doing the pressure test to avoid the trapped air influencing the pressure?
 
For the area you are looking, just normal radiator fill will be fine...just so you can see coolant in the bottom of the neck when you look in. Of course, for testing having extra coolant will not hurt anything. Any air in the block will be pushed out through the leak, until you have coolant leaking out.
 
I haven't done a pressure test yet but I put a bright light on the rear of the block and i can see definite evidence of leakage where the block meets the head on the passenger side. This is odd but it's true....when I installed the head after a bottom end rebuild 20 years ago I noticed cracks in that area. We put extra RTV at the gasket there. That lasted 20 years! Anyway when I pulled the head this time I could still see evidence of the orange RTV we used back then. With the head removed this time I noticed cracks around both rear studs and tried the RTV trick but I guess the cracking is more extreme this time because its leaking there. I just read your 2014 article about the Lock and Stitch kit you used to solve the problem. Not sure if that's practical? I'm going to run the car one more time to see if the 2nd retorque helped at all then I'm going to pull the head and inspect further. I'll post some pics. I do have a spare block so I may go that route and do a rebuild. It's too bad because the compression is good and there is no evidence of coolant leaking internally? Wonder if there is any way I can get a better seal at the back of the block so I can get one more summer out of it before major surgery? Any thoughts?
 
The lock stitch came in a kit of 5, for $320. It took almost 10 years, but I was able to sell the other 4 inserts. But, as you can see, the cost of the lock stitch is more than a used block. I only spent to save the block because mine was an original block on my TR2. I would not have spent the time or effort if it were a replacement block to begin with.

The good news is you can still use the parts from this engine in the new block. There is a chance you can seal a single crack, but it is temporary at best. Since it sounds like you have multiple cracks, I would scrap that block. It is not worth the frustration you have already gone through with this one.
 
If you are getting steam from under the carbs just after start up, then where ever theak is its must be spraing onto the exhaust manifold,
that would be the only thing on the engine that would be hot enough to turn the water to steam after a couple of minutes running.
 
mezy said:
If you are getting steam from under the carbs just after start up, then where ever theak is its must be spraing onto the exhaust manifold,
that would be the only thing on the engine that would be hot enough to turn the water to steam after a couple of minutes running.
Click to expand...
I think you are right. The only thing in that area that would leak would be the head gasket. I'm going to remove the carbs and manifolds and replace the head gasket. This time I will take the head to a machine shop and get it checked for flatness.
 
AND get it magnafluxed !!! Also ARP head studs are not cheap but worth the money.Old studs
(like old men) wear out over time.......
Mad dog
 
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