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TR2/3/3A Anyone care to share their bondo applying techniques

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Will second the long strand stuff over a weld or repair, also make sure it is the kind that won't absorb moisture, I used that followed by the fine top coat stuff over for a smooth, feathered finish.

I also still use old fashioned Nitro Stan red putty for pinholes or fine sanding scratches, but not for any larger surface imperfections, it is quick and easy to use.
 
Glemon , The old putty is NOT a good thing, it will absorb thinner and will indeed never actually
dry completely.It shrinks slowly over the years revealing the flaws. I have not used such a product
since the mid 90's...
Mad dog
 
Anybody use U-pol's "Dolphin Glaze" for spot putty? I love the stuff. We called it porpoise poop.
 
DrEntropy said:
Anybody use U-pol's "Dolphin Glaze" for spot putty? I love the stuff. We called it porpoise poop.
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Used this a lot in the body shops, great stuff, you could finish shaping with 80 grit, then a thin coat of dolphin
to fill the scratches, sand well will 240 grit. the prep boys loved it when they got a repair finished in 240, it was straight on with the primer.
 
My trick is using a little fiberglass resin to thin the filler , to the point it is a glaze.
Not to say we had no glaze, just that its pricey and fussy when it sets too long.
Mad dog
 
Don't do this. This is an image from a car that came from a highly respected MGB shop in the UK. Filler is meant to be a skim coat, not a medium to display your sculpting skills. Shiny paint hides a lot of stuff like this until it starts cracking. Like the "Secret Agent" song by Johnny Rivers said, "Beware of pretty faces that you find. A pretty face can hide an evil mind."

430782991_819772986645680_5315393545016132170_n (1).jpg
 
Dolphin Glaze is the nectar of the gods for thin skims, spots and pinholes. Dunno what part of technique you ask about, but early in the bondo cure process, I use a hacksaw blade with one edge sanded off, so it looks a bit like a knife edge with teeth on one side, to conform the shape to the surrounding metal.
Bob
 
Slightly off topic but I started working on my 64 BJ 8 project. The frame and substructure was dipped to remove all paint. Great job but the phosphate residue left from the anti rust dip is a little rough. What do you guys do prior to primer?
 
Jerry, the real question how do you treat the inner boxes of the unibody???
I dont know what sticks to this residue. I would think pumping an acid wash primer
into the spaces as if it was wax all might work. IMHO it is a serious concern that I dont
know the best answer for.
Mad dog
 
I sanded the whole frame and substructure during the last two days. It was a very thin coat of something but it is now smooth. It did not come off with water or paint thinner. I will spray my 2k primer and see what happens
 
I once had a BJ8 hood that had been acid dipped. The spot welds were broken/cracked
so I removed the front and rear braces to complete repairs. What was inside there was a horror.
Acid residue/gunk/rust. It required a lot of work to make them"right" to reinstall.
What I am saying is how the devil do you clean out the frame boxes at this point??
There is no access to these critical bits.
Mad dog
 
I am now wondering if this frame was dipped. I found some paint residue in some tight spots and maybe someone used an industrial stripper part by part. I will probably use something like waxoyl inside the frame once I get done painting.
 
Jerry spray the boxes with a rust neutralizer ,later spray with waxoyl or the equivalent.
Then pray . The chassis on Big healey was only just good enough when new.
After the motor is running, drive it around the block before final wing alignment ......
Mad dog
 
My 67 Bj8 has a Jule frame. This frame on the 64 is excellent, no dent, no bends. And the frame measurements are correct. Inside preventative is a good idea
 
sp53 said:
When I apply putty, I find that I only get about one pass with the spreader before I run into problems with build up. If I try a second pass with the same spreader, the film and build up left on the spreader from the first pass bunches up the putty and makes the first spread worse.

What I do is use a second or third or fourth spreader if I make a more passes to smooth down the putty more. Do people wipe the spreader with a rag each time or something? I thought maybe a rag with a little bit of lacquer thinner might be ok to get the film off in-between wipes because that evaporates so quickly. Anyways always up for new ideas.

steve
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Add Fiberglass resin to the Bondo. Measure out 10% of whatever size can your using. No more that 20% ( 20% is good for horizontal surfaces, self leveling) 10% for vertical maybe a touch more. Then add hardener before applying. (Don’t just dump the resin in). The filler will spread so
Much more smoothly and almost no air bubbles.
 
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