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TR2/3/3A Something is eating away at my Piston Liners

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Simmo

Simmo

Jedi Hopeful
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Hello everyone,

The accompanying pic is a cylinder liner off my TR3A. It was, along with three others, installed in my car some six months ago. Due to a failed head gasket these were removed recently.

Please note the small “Pin Head” deuteration in this sleeve as is on the others.

I have various theories such as Electrolysis or Sand Inclusion, either way it is worrisome.

Does anyone have any ideas or suggestions?
 

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Could be wrong but, that looks like a manufacturing defect, possibly caused by a porous casting. :unsure:
 
It's corrosion, but then the question is why? I change the coolant mixture in my TR2 annually, and it still comes out with scale and sludge every time. I have to assume that it has to do with the open radiator system. Modern systems are closed and pressurized, so all the air is removed and only coolant circulates. On our TR's, there is a head of air in the radiator with only 4psi pressure, and I think that contributes to corrosion throughout the cooling system. Just a theory, though.

I would not be concerned about reusing your liners, though. I suppose you could paint them with rustoleum on the areas exposed to coolant if it concerns you.
 
CJD said:
It's corrosion, but then the question is why? I change the coolant mixture in my TR2 annually, and it still comes out with scale and sludge every time. I have to assume that it has to do with the open radiator system. Modern systems are closed and pressurized, so all the air is removed and only coolant circulates. On our TR's, there is a head of air in the radiator with only 4psi pressure, and I think that contributes to corrosion throughout the cooling system. Just a theory, though.

I would not be concerned about reusing your liners, though. I suppose you could paint them with rustoleum on the areas exposed to coolant if it concerns you.
Click to expand...
 
I was thinking that JB Weld putty might be the way to fill in the cracks. If the surface is properly prepared it will bond permanently and it can be sanded smooth.
 
Might be corrosion, but for just 6 months; that does not sound right. Perhaps, a combo of poor metal and corrosion. I live in Washington State, corrosion is my thing, and I believe that is more than water.

steve
 
That amount of corrosion after only 6 months doesn't seem right. (I have no expertise in the matter but I have seen crevice corrosion on boats, and your corrosion appears similar. Crevice Corrosion)
I think I would at least send the pictures to BARECO and ask their opinion.
Also consider what you are using for coolant.
As John says, it would probably be OK to put them back in. The metal is quite thick and corrosion does not appear to be in a critical place but I'm not sure I'd be completely comfortable. (I'm not completely comfortable with any of my old cars)
Tom
 
Another thought, if they are cast iron, and then machined to final size, that area could just be an area of the liner exposed to the side of the sand mold.
 
Certainly could be, John perhaps even likely but I still don't like it. That said, I think I'd agree with your recommendation to put them back in, considering the expense of alternatives and the defects don't seem to bee in a critical areas.
Tom
 
Fortunately all that ledge does is locate the sleeve and seal to the Fo8. I would think it is way overkill for doing that job. Probably a .025" ledge would be enough.
 
The problem you describe was a familiar issue fifty or more years ago on Ferguson tractors, TR sports cars, Standard Vanguards and other makes using the wet liner engine. It still raises its ugly head from time to time and usually after an engine rebuild. It’s called cavitation. Type this into Google - *what causes cavitation in wet liner engines*
There’s a raft of material to read about but avoid info on ship propellers. There is a tenuous link twixt ship and car but read up the car stuff. There’s quite a lot of it. I hope you won’t take long in confirming this is what you probably have and I wish you a speedy solution.

John Macartney
Formerly employed by Standard Triumph in the UK
 
Thanks, John. The link between ship and car may not be that tenuous. Also known as or similar to crevice corrosion.
Tom
 
On reassembly you may also want to try Evan's Waterless coolant. As it says in the name there is no water in it and nothing to react with the air.
 
johnbmacartney said:
The problem you describe was a familiar issue fifty or more years ago on Ferguson tractors, TR sports cars, Standard Vanguards and other makes using the wet liner engine. It still raises its ugly head from time to time and usually after an engine rebuild. It’s called cavitation. Type this into Google - *what causes cavitation in wet liner engines*
There’s a raft of material to read about but avoid info on ship propellers. There is a tenuous link twixt ship and car but read up the car stuff. There’s quite a lot of it. I hope you won’t take long in confirming this is what you probably have and I wish you a speedy solution.

John Macartney
Formerly employed by Standard Triumph in the UK
Click to expand...
johnbmacartney said:
The problem you describe was a familiar issue fifty or more years ago on Ferguson tractors, TR sports cars, Standard Vanguards and other makes using the wet liner engine. It still raises its ugly head from time to time and usually after an engine rebuild. It’s called cavitation. Type this into Google - *what causes cavitation in wet liner engines*
There’s a raft of material to read about but avoid info on ship propellers. There is a tenuous link twixt ship and car but read up the car stuff. There’s quite a lot of it. I hope you won’t take long in confirming this is what you probably have and I wish you a speedy solution.

John Macartney
Formerly employed by Standard Triumph in the UK
Click to expand...
Thank you John, looks like you are so right. Much apreciated
 
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