• Hi Guest!
    If you appreciate British Car Forum and our 25 years of supporting British car enthusiasts with technical and anicdotal information, collected from our thousands of great members, please support us with a low-cost subscription. You can become a supporting member for less than the dues of most car clubs.

    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

TR2/3/3A 1960 tr3 a to gasket or not to gasket

Tinkerman

Darth Vader
Offline
I have finished the trial run assembly of the wind screen. Thanks for all of your help (more on that later).
I see that there is no gasket between the stanchion and the body. It would seem to me that there should be. This is a post 60,000 comission number car and they made a change in the stanchion mounting at that point. I have the newer screw and captive nut mounting system.
My question is, do I make a gasket and mount the wind screen with the gasket, or do I leave out the gasket and hope that it doesn't mess the finish up too badly?

Your thoughts and comments always greatly appreciated!
Tinkerman
 
Dick
On my pre 60,000 TR3 there was no gasket. And as of today after two paint jobs and removing the wind screen many times to install the Brooklands there is no problem with the paint..
 
I thought all of the Dzus button type stanchions had a groove where the factory apparently originally installed some sort of packing. But I believe it was just to attempt to deflect rain water, not to protect the paint.

Anyway, I agree that you shouldn't try to put anything in there.
 
Dick,
I'm just finishing up my latest TR3A. We must be on the same pace in our restorations. I installed the newly chromed windshield setup last weekend. (BTW Knox Custom Chrome in Knoxville did the chrome work, and it is fabulous as always). I do use a thin layer of self adhesive neoprene on the inside of the stations. You can't set it at all after it is bolted up, and it gives me a little comfort when the steel goes up on the beautiful new paint. I'm now an interior away from my 5th (and likely, my last) TR3 restoration. Good luck. Pat
 
I've never seen a gasket, guess it wouldn't hurt if its not to thick, I've had problems with the frame being tight on the mounts.

Marv
 
Mine is so tight it scratched the paint. Since I had to re-paint anyway, I sanded the area down in the hopes I get a little more room.
Jerry
60 TR3A
 
I thought all of the Dzus button type stanchions had a groove where the factory apparently originally installed some sort of packing. But I believe it was just to attempt to deflect rain water, not to protect the paint.

Anyway, I agree that you shouldn't try to put anything in there.

https://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff513/TomMulli/triumph 2/stanchion2_zps08c1e2b3.jpg

Randall, these seem to be rare and I don't know when they were used but I assume late in production (My TS 73xxxx had the groove type)
The examples I've seen were aluminum. I don't know about gaskets but probably had some kind of sealer.
 
Mine is so tight it scratched the paint. Since I had to re-paint anyway, I sanded the area down in the hopes I get a little more room.
Jerry
60 TR3A

I ran into this when mounting my windscreen. What I did was loosen the screws a little holding the stanchion onto the windscreen. This allowed the stanchions to spread out a bit...enough to easily get the screen mounted. Before I tightened up the big screws mounting the stanchions to the body, I re-tightened the screws holding the stanchion to the windscreen, then tightened up the big screws to the body. Worked out fine.
 
https://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff513/TomMulli/triumph 2/stanchion2_zps08c1e2b3.jpg

Randall, these seem to be rare and I don't know when they were used but I assume late in production (My TS 73xxxx had the groove type)
The examples I've seen were aluminum. I don't know about gaskets but probably had some kind of sealer.
Sorry if I was unclear. The ones you pictured mount with bolts rather than Dzus buttons, so not the ones I was talking about. There were actually several different castings used with bolts, not sure why. The aluminum stanchions were an extra cost option, but apparently a very unpopular one. Supposedly they break even easier than the brass ones! I suspect they were listed only so they could be included for certain "stock" racing categories.
 
You were quite clear, Randall, and I misread. My confusion arose from the fact that the dzus type were used for my bolt on stanchions and in fact on almost all of the sidescreen stanchions even though bolts were used. Those aluminum stanchions seem to be the only ones actually deigned for bolts. Thanks for the additional information.
Tom
 
My confusion arose from the fact that the dzus type were used for my bolt on stanchions and in fact on almost all of the sidescreen stanchions even though bolts were used.
Really? I've not seen that, but I've not dealt with many post-60K cars. The one car I owned (actually a wreck that I parted out) had the type shown 2nd from top in this photo.
Stanchion comparison.jpg
The holes are basically identical to the Dzus button holes; but the slot does not reach to the end of the casting so there would be no way to slide them onto the Dzus mount. They have to be bolted on.

PS, I've once again neglected to record who supplied that photo. If you recognize it as yours, please let me know.
 
PS, I've once again neglected to record who supplied that photo. If you recognize it as yours, please let me know.

That's my photo. When I was restoring my pre-60k car, the body was in really bad shape, so with an opportunity to get a decent body for little money , I grabbed it...but it is a post 60k. As a result, there were a lot of things that i had to get to make it work including the later stanchions. I kept buying them on e-bay until I got a decent set to use and as a result, I noticed that I wound up with quite a few different versions.

You can easily follow the transition in the castings.
 
Thanks, Art.
 
Yesterday I had to remove my windscreen for some other mx. I had installed it without any gaskets 2 years ago. The one piece stanchions were eating into the cowl paint pretty good. That answered the question for me! The one-piece stanchions were obviously a not-so-great cost saving measure compared to the original dzeus stanchions.


When I replaced it, I used 1/16 inch cork to insulate the paint from the stanchion.
 
Thanks for the tip John, I think I will fashion some gasket for mine. Cheap when I consider what that paint job cost me! I have plenty of gasket material laying arolund. By the way, did you gasket between the frame and the tenon plate?

Dick
 
Well, I did use a sealant on the tenon plates when I put the TR3 back together. I did not use any on the TR2 that I just reassembled. I decided the chance of me having to remove the plate later was much higher than the chance I will be driving the old car in the rain ever again. When I look closely, it appears any leakage from that area will likely just run down the cowl, and not inside the car anyway. At least that is my current logic...and I reserve the right to change my mind later, LOL!
 
Hello Tink! Hope things are well for you. It seems like you might be seeing the light at the end of the tunnel any day now. As you know, I sometimes run the Grey Lady with aeroscreens, so the windscreen is off and on all throughout the season. We did research this issue thoroughly. Brian claims that he has seen the remnants of sealant (like duct seal) under the stanchions on unmolested cars. However, he has not seen any (paper) gasket material. I don't use anything because it isn't necessary. However I do use an anti-seize compound for the 1/4-28 threads.

Cheers,

Frank:joyous:
 
Mornin Frank, l good to hear from you! Hope you are doing well also. I do see the light at the end of the tunnel. Gets a bit fuzzyat times but I have to keep reminding myself that it is a hobby and I'm not a professional mechanic.
For me I am going to use a gasket mostly to protect the expensive finish that I have on the car! I had read somewhere that the temnon plate should be gasketed or sealed, hense the question. I can understand your use of the anti-seize on the mounting bolts but I would have to say that once that once that windscreen is on I am not, hopefully ever going to take it off again. Will probably use loctite on it, heh!

Cheers, Dick
 
Related question: I'm replacing a gasket under the windscreen and i'm running into a problem with the Moss part. I have a 58' TR3A and the slot that receives the gasket is shaped kind of bow tie like or figure 8. meaning the gasket must be larger and bulging on one side. The part that Moss carries is a simple flat piece of rubber. There is NO description anywhere that I can see of how to install this part. Does anyone have any suggestions?
 

Attachments

  • old gasket with proper flange at one end.jpg
    old gasket with proper flange at one end.jpg
    23.4 KB · Views: 143
  • Moss Gasket.jpg
    Moss Gasket.jpg
    18.9 KB · Views: 130
  • windscreen slot for gasket.jpg
    windscreen slot for gasket.jpg
    20.7 KB · Views: 134
Related question: I'm replacing a gasket under the windscreen and i'm running into a problem with the Moss part. I have a 58' TR3A and the slot that receives the gasket is shaped kind of bow tie like or figure 8. meaning the gasket must be larger and bulging on one side. The part that Moss carries is a simple flat piece of rubber. There is NO description anywhere that I can see of how to install this part. Does anyone have any suggestions?
You have the wrong part. You need a replacement like the one you took off. It looks like the part you received is for surrounding the windshield glass to the metal frame. It is for folding over the edge of the glass and inserting it into the frame. Not what you need.
Charley
 
Back
Top