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Spridget wont start

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Marvinator

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I have a 66 1098 spridget that I pulled the engine to fix multiple oil leaks. Fixed the leaks added new clutch and put back in car. Did not remove distributor Car was driving and running good prior to this. Now it won't fire. Has gas, spark etc. Has 2 year old battery new coil. Aftermarket starter and ignation Weber down draft carb. Won't even sputter with either. Any ideas?
 
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Marvinator said:
That's what I have. Taking the battery and starter into parts store to have them check tomorrow. Seems to crank slow.
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cranking slow could also be a ground issue - I know the ground has been re-connected but, a quick dousble check is to add a ground - clip a jumper cable to the block and then to the frame and see what happens.
 
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JPSmit said:
cranking slow could also be a ground issue - I know the ground has been re-connected but, a quick dousble check is to add a ground - clip a jumper cable to the block and then to the frame and see what happens.
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Thanks never crossed my mind to use jumper cables for that so easy, but didn't work. Replaced the Battery today under warranty still cranks so so. I also noticed I cannot put it in gear I replaced clutch, pressure plate, throwing out bearing but it will not engage. Master cylinder is new along with slave cylinder. Push the clutch in and pin moves 3/4" t- would like it to start before I might have to pull engine and tranny again. Any more ideas ?
 
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Marvinator said:
Thanks never crossed my mind to use jumper cables for that so easy, but didn't work. Replaced the Battery today under warranty still cranks so so. I also noticed I cannot put it in gear I replaced clutch, pressure plate, throwing out bearing but it will not engage. Master cylinder is new along with slave cylinder. Push the clutch in and pin moves 3/4" t- would like it to start before I might have to pull engine and tranny again. Any more ideas ?
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Mine is a 1500 so a different engine clutch, but, from others on the forum, the hole for the pin to the pedal can wear oval - and the clevis pin can get remarkably chewed up. Also is the pin adjustable?

There is a known issue with the thrust bearing deteriorating and likewise with the lever bending - both of which would necesiate the engine coming out. Do you have a hard pedal?

I can't imagine any of this would affect the starting though.

when you turn it over, is it trying to start? is it firing at all? and what colour are your plugs?
 
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JPSmit said:
Mine is a 1500 so a different engine clutch, but, from others on the forum, the hole for the pin to the pedal can wear oval - and the clevis pin can get remarkably chewed up. Also is the pin adjustable?

There is a known issue with the thrust bearing deteriorating and likewise with the lever bending - both of which would necesiate the engine coming out. Do you have a hard pedal?

I can't imagine any of this would affect the starting though.

when you turn it over, is it trying to start? is it firing at all? and what colour are your plugs?
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When it's turn over it is not trying to start. It ran fine before I started fixing leaks.
 
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JPSmit said:
so likely electrical then.

do you have spark?
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Yes new coil, battery, nothing changed. Spark is yellow to blue. Took engine out replaced parts put back in won't start. Ground is good. Turns over with ignation switch or the remote. Timing has been checked TDC rotor points to #1. Just won't fire even with either.
 
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an engine needs fuel- spark- compression to run if you have all 3 it should give an indication of trying to start even with the timing being incorrect, try pulling the plugs and turn the motor over to see if you've got compression [a finger over a plug hole] if ok try giving each cyl a squirt of fuel, turn it over a couple of times, replace the plugs, then try to start, you should get a backfire or a stalling type reaction[like its seizing] if timing is out if nothing happens it could be valve timing which I doubt if you didn't touch the cam gears, then report back
Russ
 
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zabond said:
an engine needs fuel- spark- compression to run if you have all 3 it should give an indication of trying to start even with the timing being incorrect, try pulling the plugs and turn the motor over to see if you've got compression [a finger over a plug hole] if ok try giving each cyl a squirt of fuel, turn it over a couple of times, replace the plugs, then try to start, you should get a backfire or a stalling type reaction[like its seizing] if timing is out if nothing happens it could be valve timing which I doubt if you didn't touch the cam gears, then report back
Russ
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Followed your steps. Nothing no backfire no nothing
 
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Ok, you say you have spark. Where are you checking that and how? Give as much detail as practical please.
 
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Bayless said:
Ok, you say you have spark. Where are you checking that and how? Give as much detail as practical please.
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To answer that question I pulled the plugs one at a time, laid them on the block and watched the spark. You’re advice to put thumb on plug holes seem to work for compression although it didn’t seem right. I put a gauge on each one between our conversation and have #1 at 69, #3 at 15, #4 at 15, and #2 at 79. S$it. I’m pretty sure how I F it up. I used 2 of the manifold bolts to remove the engine. Looks like a new head gasket 🤡
 
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Did you have the throttle blades open when checking compression?
 
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