• Hi Guest!
    If you appreciate British Car Forum and our 25 years of supporting British car enthusiasts with technical and anicdotal information, collected from our thousands of great members, please support us with a low-cost subscription. You can become a supporting member for less than the dues of most car clubs.
    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

My left rear wheel is locking up

Share this page

Martinld123

Martinld123

Jedi Hopeful
Country flag
Offline
Hello, my left rear wheel is locking up on me. I turn adjuster on back of plate which releases brakes fine but locks up again as soon as I use the brakes. The right wheel brake works fine. I have a BN2 but I think my base plate might be from a BN1. There seems to be no middle ground with the adjuster. It seems to be release or lock no middle ground. I will check tomorrow morning to give more info. Thanks Marty
 
Years ago, I had a problem with our Bugeye (I think it was only one wheel?) that was due to pressure not being released at the Master Cylinder end (IIRC, but the master cyldiner doesn't make sense if it was only one wheel). Might be a problem with your slave cylinder? For some reason, I think backing up might have released the lock-up, but no guarantee on that one. Also - back in my working career - I was out on a pressure test of a 48" pipeline and one of the hydraulic hoses had a piece of rubber come loose inside it, and it was blocking flow and giving us erroneous readings. So: slave cylinder? master cylinder (I'm thinking unlikely if it's the only one)? somehow you got that old hose that the superintendent hurled far into the trees and the snow, in a 'pique' of annoyance? Doug
 
In some occasions it would be the right as the seat would be empty. If the back plate is worn it will leave a ridge that locks the shoe. and only a broken spring is left. Backing up is a good test also.

Madflyer
 
Check the inside of the rims of the hub for any oil that may have seeped in. A small patch can cause locking up. I had it happen on the front drum of my first 100-Six.
 
Madflyer said:
In some occasions it would be the right as the seat would be empty. If the back plate is worn it will leave a ridge that locks the shoe. and only a broken spring is left. Backing up is a good test also.

Madflyer
Click to expand...
Thanks for helping. I cannot see any worn areas on the back plate and both springs look good. I did notice that the painted number on my shoes don't match any number (021579) in Moss Motors catalog. Also in catalog both ends of shoes have a tapered end while mine are square cut ends. I see no wear spots on shoes or drum. Drum looks smooth with no ridges as does back plate. I have had the these same shoes since I bought car about 8 years ago. I wonder if shoes could be wrong ones? Thanks Marty
 
DerekJ said:
Check the inside of the rims of the hub for any oil that may have seeped in. A small patch can cause locking up. I had it happen on the front drum of my first 100-Six.
Click to expand...

Thanks for helping me. I have not noticed any oil patches/spots on the drum or shoes. With the drum off I have just now noticed a few drops of fresh oil coming from axle seal. I think could be normal with drum off of wheel and 5 bolts not there to hold all together. Other than that all is clean with no old oil spots that I can see. To be safe maybe I will get some spray brake cleaner to clean up?
 
I'm grasping at straws, but try bleeding some fluid out of the lines at the offending wheel. There's no way that this should make any difference, but if crud comes out, then best bleed them all. If the others are okay, then that would imply some sort of deterioration in the lines/slave cylinder.
If you've had no problems for 8 years, then I doubt if it's a brake shoe issue. Try popping the wheel & drum off on the other side and compare the shoes. Doug
 
twas_brillig said:
I'm grasping at straws, but try bleeding some fluid out of the lines at the offending wheel. There's no way that this should make any difference, but if crud comes out, then best bleed them all. If the others are okay, then that would imply some sort of deterioration in the lines/slave cylinder.
If you've had no problems for 8 years, then I doubt if it's a brake shoe issue. Try popping the wheel & drum off on the other side and compare the shoes. Doug
Click to expand...

Doug I think you are right after 8 years shoes should be ok and both sides match. I hate bleeding brakes but your idea seems about all that is left to try. Just for last try I will get some brake cleaner and clean first. I hate bleeding brakes, lol. I might have put new brake fluid in 5 years ago or so. I will order new left wheel cylinder and new lug nuts that have seen better days. Thank Marty
 
With the drum off, you might see some oil seeping between the axle flange and hub. There should be a flat-head screw (or two) holding the axle flange and hub together. You should not see any seepage from the seal. I had a Triumph where oil leaked onto the brake shoes, and that really caused the brake to lock, but it sounds like that is not your problem.

Brake bleeding is much easier if the system is already full - you don't have to get the air out.
 
twas_brillig said:
I'm grasping at straws, but try bleeding some fluid out of the lines at the offending wheel. There's no way that this should make any difference, but if crud comes out, then best bleed them all. If the others are okay, then that would imply some sort of deterioration in the lines/slave cylinder.<br>
If you've had no problems for 8 years, then I doubt if it's a brake shoe issue. Try popping the wheel & drum off on the other side and compare the shoes. Doug
Click to expand...
<br>
<br>Doug I think you are right after 8 years shoes should be ok and both sides match. I hate bleeding brakes but your idea seems about all that is left to try. Just for last try I will get some brake cleaner and clean first. I hate bleeding brakes, lol. I might have put new brake fluid in 5 years ago or so. I will order new left wheel cylinder and new lug nuts that have seen better days. Thanks Marty

I am in gray area but think cylinder 1" bore with gold band. I am sure if junk in line not way to clean out so will order new. Thanks Marty
 
CaptRandy said:
Wheel cylinder. How old are they? Cup in it may be failing
Click to expand...

I bought it about 8 years ago, so not sure, but car was also restored about 10 years ago. I may have replaced one awhile back. I ordered another one so when it gets here I will replace first thing. Thanks Marty
 
I also wonder about the wheel cylinder. I had a front drum brake lock up and was unable to fix it by adjusting. I replaced the worn/wet looking wheel cylinder and while I was at it I replaced all the wheel cylinders front and back. I then spent the next several weeks bleeding brakes with the help of my wife, and thousands on couples therapy because I drove my wife crazy with all the bleeding.
 
Marital Advice: never wall paper together. Doug
 
One of our neighbours has a vacuum unit that I borrowed the last time I was messing with the brake system. It worked well, with the real advantage being that you don't have to enlist a willing volunteer. Doug
 
As it is the rear brakes pulling EM brakes does it release every time say car rolling and pulling EM brakes speed should not matter. This test would show hydralike or mechanical problem. There should be a number on the drum for max wear most tire and brake shops will check for free and arc shoes. I would not just do one brake check all four. I write the date on back plate who remembers dates unless it's wife BD Madflyer
 
Back
Top