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DIY Extension for Clutch Bleeding

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Bob_Spidell said:
Hmmmmmm ... what does that say for SS brake lines?
Click to expand...

I had the Doug Reid SS set except for the long pipe to the back axle. Had to replace my master cylinders and clutch slave at various times and found that after they'd been tightened a couple of times the flares leaked, evidently due to work hardening. That's why I switched to cunifer.
Maybe that was just me, as I had all my stuff apart and back together at least a couple of times.
 
steveg said:
I had the Doug Reid SS set except for the long pipe to the back axle. Had to replace my master cylinders and clutch slave at various times and found that after they'd been tightened a couple of times the flares leaked, evidently due to work hardening. That's why I switched to cunifer.
Maybe that was just me, as I had all my stuff apart and back together at least a couple of times.
Click to expand...

Well, as long as we're on the subject--;)--I tried Doug's SS studs when I was having trouble sealing up my exhaust manifold to downpipe flanges. Tried several, and they all snapped when I applied typical torque to them. Went back to mild steel with a different sealing method and all's well. Because of this I concluded while SS if fine for some fastening applications it's too brittle for some.
 
SS bolts and nuts do not "slide" the same as mild steel, so you cannot use the same torque values. Also after awhile SS tends to gall and will be difficult to unbolt.
This is a big issue in the food and pharma industries where everything is SS.
 
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