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TR2/3/3A Exhaust Header Fitment

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JFS

JFS

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My new header mounting flange measures 3/16" thinner than my Weber Canon intake manifold mounting flange. The stud mounted clamp that secures the two is cast with two ears each with a protruding contact button. Do I compensate the difference by grinding down the higher ear or by shimming the lower ear? Or does it matter? I don't have the old header I am replacing and don't remember how that one mounted. My clamps have not been modified and I don't remember shimming the old header.
 
The headers I've used had little tabs welded to them, for each of the clamps to rest on.
 
I had to put a little bead of weld on mine.

Cheers
Tush
 
A bead of weld it will be, Tush
.
Another problem: The collector does not clear a front brake line screwed into the 5 way brake line connector. Are the connector's line ports the same as that for the brake light switch? If so, interchanging the brake switch with the front brake line would provide adequate clearance since I don't use that switch.
 
Do you happen to have a picture of your switch that you could post? I had no issues with interference here.

Cheers,
Tush
 
My previous header was also the long runner type, but it hugged the block more closely.

_DSC4397.jpg_DSC4396.jpg
 
On my cars the outlet on the 5 way pointing toward the exhaust is for the switch. The outlet pointing forward is used for the brake line.
 
The 5 way connector illustrated on the Moss site seems to show all outlets as identical, so I should be able to interchange the switch and brake line to provide the necessary clearance for my header. Hope changing the line's shape doesn't prove difficult.
 
JFS said:
The 5 way connector illustrated on the Moss site seems to show all outlets as identical, so I should be able to interchange the switch and brake line to provide the necessary clearance for my header. Hope changing the line's shape doesn't prove difficult.
Click to expand...

All the outlets are NOT IDENTICAL..., there are two different type outlets. See picture below.

Edit: One picture shows an outlet without a seat...It's there, it was just hard to see on my fitting. I posted it before I could correct it, and I couldn't figure out how to remove the wrong pic, so they are both there.
 

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Thanks, Art! Your pics show what I need to know. New plan is to disconnect the lines, rotate the 5 way so the switch points to the collector and connect the two brake lines to the appropriate seated outlets.
 
You might want to use a plug in place of the switch, for extra clearance and less exhaust heat into the brake fluid.
 
TR3driver said:
You might want to use a plug in place of the switch, for extra clearance and less exhaust heat into the brake fluid.
Click to expand...

Good idea. Now I’ll have to see whether to reshape that curved line or cut it off and reflare it.
 
If it were me, I'd replace it with a new one. Those old lines can sometimes get brittle with age, and it only takes a tiny crack on the inside to cause it to eventually fail.

The "Cunifer" alloy was developed specifically for use in brake lines. Very corrosion resistant, very easy to work with. Moss has sets (from Automec in the UK) that are already flared and have suitable nuts. Or you can buy parts to roll your own from many sources. If you do, be sure to get the Girling pattern nuts with the extended (unthreaded) tip, the American ones don't always seal properly. https://store.fedhillusa.com/britishgirling.aspx
 
Thanks again, Randall, for another good suggestion! Moss price of less than $30 for a new pipe with fittings is the way for me to go.
 
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