New Shocks for Otto and other winter projects

[mikeamondo]

So... I know in advance I'm gonna get skewered for asking this.... I don't have the time, skills or cash on hand to do a full front end rebuild, but I feel the shocks are pretty bad on the car. I'd like to replace them, both front and rear, and I see that World Wide in Madison is the way to go. How hard is it to change them for a Bugeye newbie like me? I also am going to need to do the tie rod ends and the boots.

Without listing everything that might be done... what things would it be stupid to not do whilst doing the shocks or tie rods?

Is there a nice step by step guide or good video on changing out the Bugeye shocks, front and rear?

Thoughts?
Thanks!

 

[JPSmit]

Ok, newbies never want to hear that it is easy, because it seems hard, but it is one of the easier jobs.

We can walk you through the process. Tie rod ends are not difficult you just need to keep track of a few things. (like the number of threads to count in)

I would suggest that you replace the bushings at the same time - a little more complicated but no more difficult. Go ahead and order the new shocks and we can get you there.

 

[SaxMan]

Replacing the shocks was one of the first things I did with my '69 Sprite, and I had done little more than change oil on a car prior to that. You can do it. I agree with JP that you should replace the bushings while you're at it.

If you're going to bite off on the tie rods, check the condition of the bellows on the steering rack. If you have the tie rods off, replacing the bellows is pretty easy.

 

[mikeamondo]

Thanks for the replies and the encouragement! I've done a good bit of work on the car already.... new brake shoes, cylinders and hoses all the way around, rear bearings and seals, a few other basics. My main concern is speed... mine, not the car. I can usually figure stuff out, but it can take me a while. I'll be ordering parts shortly, but we'll need the car on the road the first weekend in March for a trade show.... he's our mascot.

I've found a couple of nice write ups on the tie rods... one from Moss. But I can't really find something on shocks. Do I need any special tools? Anything need 'pressed' in? I've seen the write ups on the complete front end rebuild.... much of that is beyond my ability and my work shop area. Not even sure I have the correct terms for the parts in my head.... I've misplaced my shop manual... I'll dig for it today and if I can find it, that may answer many of my questions.... kind of stating the obvious there.

Thanks!

 

[Rut]

Mike,
Mike Amick did a tutorial on rebuilding the front end a few years ago and it’s a go to document. I did mine before Mike and based off of forum help I decided to send the spindles to PeterC. He did everything including new a arms, king pins, bushings, rebuilding shocks, etc. and it was a bolt in operation from there. Having everything in the front suspension and steering up to spec transforms the car.
Rut
https://www.mikeamick.com/76midget/

 

[SaxMan]

.. My main concern is speed... mine, not the car. I can usually figure stuff out, but it can take me a while. I'll be ordering parts shortly, but we'll need the car on the road the first weekend in March for a trade show.... he's our mascot....

While I understand the deadline, speed should be the least of your concerns when tinkering with these cars. I know there are some jobs that would take a relatively seasoned mechanic 20 minutes to do that end up taking me an hour or more. It's all part of the process. It's always better to get the job done right then get the job done fast. You'll eventually find a comfortable pace with experience.

My mentor used to tell me when it comes to restoration "We watch the calendar, not the clock". The worst thing that can happen by moving slow is you miss the trade show. There's always going to be another show. If you end up making a mistake on the car because you move too quickly....well, that's probably going to be worse than missing a trade show.

 

[mikeamondo]

While I understand the deadline, speed should be the least of your concerns when tinkering with these cars. I know there are some jobs that would take a relatively seasoned mechanic 20 minutes to do that end up taking me an hour or more. It's all part of the process. It's always better to get the job done right then get the job done fast. You'll eventually find a comfortable pace with experience.

My mentor used to tell me when it comes to restoration "We watch the calendar, not the clock". The worst thing that can happen by moving slow is you miss the trade show. There's always going to be another show. If you end up making a mistake on the car because you move too quickly....well, that's probably going to be worse than missing a trade show.

Well said and 100% true. And believe me... I LOVE working on my car, nice and slow at my own pace.... however... the only reason I could even justify Otto's purchase is by having him earn his keep. When he's in the room, no one fails to come by the booth, pick up our magazine and chat about cars. One of my customer who is not currently buying ads is an avid british car collector... really need to get Otto on that lot! That's why I don't want to tear into something when I might end up being down for half the summer. Brought him home in March of last year and a rear brake cylinder blew pulling him off the trailer.... that and all the previously mentioned work kept him off the road until well into June! Missed half the season...

 

[Jim_Gruber]

You will need to get new bushings reamed if you choose to go that way. Peter C. Does provide a turn key service to do that. You can get a complete turnkey setup that as Rut said, simply bolts on. It does make a big difference in how the car drives.

 

[JPSmit]

Assuming you have access to work space you can do You can do this by March. It is, at most a solid weekend's work (possibly spread over a couple of weekends)

EG. Rear Shocks is literally 3-4 bolts per side

 

[SaxMan]

Well said and 100% true. And believe me... I LOVE working on my car, nice and slow at my own pace.... however... the only reason I could even justify Otto's purchase is by having him earn his keep. When he's in the room, no one fails to come by the booth, pick up our magazine and chat about cars. One of my customer who is not currently buying ads is an avid british car collector... really need to get Otto on that lot! That's why I don't want to tear into something when I might end up being down for half the summer. Brought him home in March of last year and a rear brake cylinder blew pulling him off the trailer.... that and all the previously mentioned work kept him off the road until well into June! Missed half the season...

...and that's why you need two LBCs -- one to show while you're fixing up the other :highly_amused:

 

[mikeamondo]

...and that's why you need two LBCs -- one to show while you're fixing up the other :highly_amused:

A thought that has crossed my mind more than once! Then I shove that craziness down into a box and lock away the key!

We do a little farming and we would love to get our hands on a Morris Van or Pickup to use for Farmer's Markets.... hmmmmm.......

 

[nomad]

Well, front end work can be simple and it can be otherwise. Changing the A arm bushings on a nearly rust free car with low miles and A arm inner pivot special bolts slid right out on the drivers side and the job was done in minutes. The passengers side on the other hand had the inner sleeves of the original bushings rusted to the bolt. I've fought that side off and on for days before the penetrating oil must have finally done the trick and I got it apart.

Kurt

 

[SD Bugeye]

Yep
Kurt
you have to love penetrating oil.
i look at it as a handoff it’s your turn loosen that up!
if nothing else it gives you a sense that you haven’t given up
you apply it generously till it covers the area that offends you
then let it work its magic as the odor of it penatrates the area with the reassuring smell of the possibility that it has
found a crevice that allows it to perform magic
should be loose as soon as I finish this coffee or beer...

love the stuff :eagerness:

 

[nomad]

Changing the subject and I apologize but, SD Bugeye, have you [and others] thought about joining up on a trip to the AH Conclave in Deadwood this fall??

Kurt

 

[SD Bugeye]

If the project I’m working is in the azors Horta is complete I’m defenitly going
not sure if I will drive last minute weather will tell
thats hail season as you well know
so may trailer and I’m old and soft

 

[mikeamondo]

So I checked with Mr. Caldwell at World Wide today via email about his front suspension complete replacement and unfortunately he is disc brake only... Otto is still drums all around.... so I'm going to look over the job this weekend when I give an hour or two to study it.... and decide whether to dig into the whole job or just swap out the shocks for now.

@Jim_Gruber -- when you said I'd need to get new bushing reamed if I decided to go that way... what exactly does that mean... to ream new bushings? Trying to wrap my head around this job....

Also... once I dig in and do the shocks, what percentage of the entire job have I already tackled. Honestly, taking apart the brakes and putting them back and dealing with the bleeding once again has me feeling tired. .....

Thanks!
Mike

 

[Jim_Gruber]

Mike,

There is a special reaming tool needed so the new brass bushings fit correctly with no slop and correct clearances, Peter C has this tool that is unobtanium and if available costs over $300. Clearances are set properly and the right number of washers are added to the top of the stack under the Top Cap piece. Brass Bushings press into the top and bottom of the spindle assembly. This allows your wheel to turn L / R so you can steer.

So I checked with Mr. Caldwell at World Wide today via email about his front suspension complete replacement and unfortunately he is disc brake only... Otto is still drums all around.... so I'm going to look over the job this weekend when I give an hour or two to study it.... and decide whether to dig into the whole job or just swap out the shocks for now.

@Jim_Gruber -- when you said I'd need to get new bushing reamed if I decided to go that way... what exactly does that mean... to ream new bushings? Trying to wrap my head around this job....

Also... once I dig in and do the shocks, what percentage of the entire job have I already tackled. Honestly, taking apart the brakes and putting them back and dealing with the bleeding once again has me feeling tired. .....

Thanks!
Mike

 

[mikeamondo]

Thanks Jim! Looking thru Mike Amick's tutorial on the job.... I don't see any discussion of reaming or a special tool.... in fact he doesn't even show installing the bushing because he says they just push in.... is his car different from mine? His is a 76 and disc brakes.... mine is a 60 and drums....

Mike,

There is a special reaming tool needed so the new brass bushings fit correctly with no slop and correct clearances, Peter C has this tool that is unobtanium and if available costs over $300. Clearances are set properly and the right number of washers are added to the top of the stack under the Top Cap piece. Brass Bushings press into the top and bottom of the spindle assembly. This allows your wheel to turn L / R so you can steer.

 

[JPSmit]

The bush in question is #17 in the diagram. it fits in the "hole" #18. The kingpin #4 swivels against it.

Full disclosure. I replaced the kingpin but not the bush. It wasn't worn and I have had no issues. If you do decide, take the stub axle (#45) and the bush to an old school mechanic and he/she can insert/ream it for you.

In terms of repairing/replacing this stuff, it seems about 9 times out of 10, people have to sacrifice the kingpin (#4) This is because the bolt (#12) is almost always seized and you have to cut it out. (BTW when you reassemble it, put a grease nipple on both sides of the bolt (#12) for next time. It is an easy fix that will help a lot next time.)

This all sounds complicated, it really isn't. It is super logical when you actually see it.

My two hardest jobs were.

1. Getting the springs out.

2. Getting the A-arm (#3) back onto the body with new bushings as the fit was tight (I used 2 putty knives)

There is lot's of good advice here - and If I can you can.

 

[nomad]

Mike, my advice would be to do as little as is absolutely necessary until you are ready to convert to front disc's. They are that much of an improvement. That's my opinion so you can take it for what it is. I'm sure some guys into originality might disagree.

Kurt