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TR2/3/3A Front floorpan support

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LionelJrudd

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When I remade the firewalls for my car I bent the bottom flange forward as I have seen in a photograph in Roger William's book How to Restore Triumph TRs. There was no material left on the originals to use as a guide.

Logic suggests that it would fold to the rear and hence support the front of the floor panels. The replacement panels from Kilmartion Automtive Sheetmetal in Ballarat, Victoria, have enough length to reach through under the flange as I have bent it. Does it do this and is simply spot welded to the firewall flange?

I also think I read in one of the forums that it went to the rear but can't remember where. (Potentially my memory at fault)
Can anyone give me correct guidance on this?
 
Thanks for the reference. I think this might be what I remembered as I have gone through most of John's notes re the TR2.
He says "The TR2 floor parts are logical. All panels are layed to prevent water ingress, so the front of each panel goes on top, and the rear of each goes under. Later bodies were not so logical."
I think perhaps the later TR3s had the lip forward for easier assembly??? Or not!

Further comments would be welcomed on this matter as I am still in the position of being able to reverse the bend if that is appropriate.
 
The TR2 folded to the rear, and the vertical firewall wraps under the floor pan...as would seem logical if you were designing it. The TR3A did the opposite. On the 3A the vertical firewall bends forward and then the floor comes under it and the resulting flange at the front is spot welded. I am sure it was changed to speed production, as it is the opposite of what you would do to keep water out of the inside...but that's what they did. I'll dig for a pic of the TR3A. I do not know when they changed the direction.



I found one...

UDYdbU8.jpg


I posted the TR2 version on the bodywork thread, but if you have trouble finding it I will be happy to re-post the pics here.
 
That's the answer I was hoping to hear. No desire to rework things I have already done. As always John, you have the comprehensive answer. I did look back at your TR2 thread thanks to Alfred's link.
 
Tom my vehicles commission number is TS17505 L and it has the early style sloping rear floor which pre dates TS60000. Additionally it doesn't have the bolt holes for the aero screens which dates it after TS32833. Windscreen mounting is pre dzus fittings which dates it before TS28826. I think the commission number may have been substitued even though the EB number of 16140 is fairly close to the commission number.
Call me confused!
 
The forward facing lip in John's photo is the later type, post 60k. The early type folds back and under the floor and also has the sloping rear deck. Everything on your car would seem consistent with your early commission and eb numbers.
If I understand you original question, you should cut the floor to fit on top of the rearward facing flange on the firewall.
Tom
 
Darn Tom. That means I will have to do the old 180 degree bendback. A good thing I haven't got it attached to the scuttle yet. On the upside, I prefer the thought of having the lip face to the rear of the car and supporting the floor pan.
 
I agree with Tom, the firewall folds back and under the floor plan on the TR3 before 60000 .
 
Lionel, you will have to cut the front end of the floor panels off to make them fit inside.

Graham
 
Graham, I have no problem cutting bits off. It's the putting metal back on that gives me grief. I seem to recall a conversation in one of the other threads some time ago re trimming the floor pans to suit. Still some work to do before I get out the shears.
 
LionelJrudd said:
Graham, I have no problem cutting bits off. It's the putting metal back on that gives me grief. I seem to recall a conversation in one of the other threads some time ago re trimming the floor pans to suit. Still some work to do before I get out the shears.
Click to expand...
Certainly best not to have to weld on a new panel but not the end of the world either. The right side floor on my post 60k came up about 1/4 inch short at the front so I trimmed off 2 inches and butt welded 2 1/4 on. Other side was fine so I guess the car is asymmetric.
Tom
 
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