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Cobalt top entry wires question

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Today I did about a 15 mile drive with my new 22D setup - didn't notice any power difference from my previous DM6 Pertronix 1 & metal wires setup. Will probably go for the Pertronix 2 next, keeping the Bosch blue coil for the present.

As an aside, a friend with a D-type replica was having running problems and said Pertronix tech support told him to swap out his bumblebee wires for modern wires and that made all kinds of difference in how his car runs. Pertronix said the pointed screws and metal wires were "stone age". Maybe metal wire issues are the root of the problems.
 
I ditched the bumblebees years ago, always were a problem with the Pertronix. I run Accel Spiral Core Wires in a similiar yellow color, https://express.google.com/product/...pping&utm_medium=product_ads&utm_campaign=gsx

A little lacquer thinner removes the labeling on the wire, so they still look period.

'57 100-SIX MM Tri-Carb Motor.jpg
 
YES I quit the bumble bee wire too and use yellow EXCELL wires.

The Bosch Blue coil was always used in the Late Volvo P1800 cars and it outperformed the old Healey Lucas sport coil and did not leak.

To control EMI I use Resistor Plugs and plug caps, the side entry distributor caps with the screws are potentially susceptible to corrosion and may have cause a problem However , I have never given up on the side entry cap.
 
'... Pertronix said the pointed screws and metal wires were "stone age".'

Like, say, points and condensers? Did you tell the Pertronix guys you're running points?
 
Bob_Spidell said:
'... Pertronix said the pointed screws and metal wires were "stone age".'

Like, say, points and condensers? Did you tell the Pertronix guys you're running points?
Click to expand...

There wouldn't be much point in asking for their troubleshooting on a points system.

I didn't talk to them this time. That info's 2nd hand from the D-type guy. He evidently was running bumblebee wires with pertronix.

IMO Pertronix corporate now advises against using metal wires with the P1 - they didn't used to, say, 10 years ago. maybe the issue has clarified.

I may have to get back to Jeff at Advanced and ask him what exactly he has against Pertronix. Couldn't find anything online, though I understand he's a big poster on the MG forums.
 
steveg said:
If anyone is interested this article discusses the differences between wire types and EMI and RFI:
https://www.onedirt.com/tech/getting-wired-spark-plug-wires-101/
Click to expand...

Yeah: That is pretty good, However we do not have to worry about "OEM" carbon string wires , and Solid core wire needs to be clarified.

Back in the day a single Metal conductor was used for the core.
These solid core wires were capable of fracturing due to vibration.
Modern Solid core wire uses several small stranded- where coper is the most popular- Metallic conductors to fabricate the core
 
Keoke said:
Yeah: That is pretty good, However we do not have to worry about "OEM" carbon string wires , and Solid core wire needs to be clarified.

Back in the day a single Metal conductor was used for the core.
These solid core wires were capable of fracturing due to vibration.
Modern Solid core wire uses several small stranded- where coper is the most popular- Metallic conductors to fabricate the core
Click to expand...

Keoke, you are misquoting the article in order to make your point. What he actually says is:

"A race plug wire that consisted of wound wire strands that were commonly referred to as Solid Core wires."

I have a novel idea - for a change instead of anonymously sniping at other people's stuff, why don't you do some original research, with links, under your real name, and put it up here for others to criticize.
 
NO I am simply clarifying differences between Solid Wire OK

IF you wind wire strands in to a spiral you form a coil???

IF you wind individual small wire strands in to a small bundle you have a stranded core???
 
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Went ahead with my original plan for the 22D - installed a Pertronix II. In light of the calverst.com article above re misfires - the design with the separate module bolted to the base plate makes it easy to add a dedicated ground wire going from the module base to the chassis at the coil mount. For the ground, I used a leftover piece of Pertronix' fine-strand black wire, spliced to a different color wire outside the distributor.

FWIW - I installed the disty in the same position as it had been with points. It started OK, and at idle, timing light showed about 40 degrees advance.

screenshot.1441.jpg
 
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Bob_Spidell said:
Hmmmm ... Pertronix doesn't seem to list any units for 25D6, as used on BJ8s. Have they been discontinued?
Click to expand...

Well:

If you have a pertronix unit in your car just about any other six cylinder dizzy module of the same ground configuration will work in your BJ8 dizzy.
 
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Both ads imply the II is for negative ground only (assumed, I guess, if for positive ground they indicate it). Anyone know if there's a II for pos. gnd.?

Steve, these show only two leads, did you add a ground lead? If so, why?
 
Good grief Dougie! You need to warn us before you post stuff like that, what if our wives walked in?!?!

Those pistons though. And that crankshaft! If I'm going to dream of a fantasy, those pictures are as good as any__and better than most :cheers:

dougie said:
Ditto for me....I've raced with both the Pertronix Ignitor and currently Ingnitor II. Jeff built my race distributor years ago base on a Lucus Jaguar D type unit. I've had issues with coils in the past and I'm currently upgrade my system with the Pertronix Flame Thrower HP coil and new Digital HP System. My new race motor willing living at 7000 rpm.

View attachment 55027
View attachment 55028
Click to expand...

dougie said:
I ditched the bumblebees years ago, always were a problem with the Pertronix. I run Accel Spiral Core Wires in a similiar yellow color, https://express.google.com/product/...pping&utm_medium=product_ads&utm_campaign=gsx

A little lacquer thinner removes the labeling on the wire, so they still look period.

View attachment 55036
Click to expand...
 
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