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Steering rebuild followup - still issues

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The problem evidently is in the DW peg. It was a force fit into the needle rollers of my steering rocker arm, and protruded about .07" further than those in the 3 used rocker arms I have access to. Because of the force fit it took me a long time to get it out. I replaced it with one of the used ones.

The stock pegs are .5300" D. The DW peg is .5305". Surprisingly, it easily fit into one of the used rockers. Maybe the needles were worn on that one.

Because of the extra protrusion, the rocker shaft was scraping the inside of the box lid.

The box now operates freely. Will take it for a test drive after installation tomorrow and give what I hope is a final report.
 
Last edited:
Finally resolution...

Did the test drive. Steering works properly with the used stock peg. IMO the DW peg will work, just not in my particular rocker arm.

Just under 1" of play at the steering wheel with the adjustment for the best compromise between tightness and play.
 
Hi Steve,

Boy, you had some **** of a battle with this box rebuild. Great news that you overcame and won the tussle.

Enjoy driving your Healey,
Ray(64BJ8P1)
 
Tenaciousness paid off! Good to learn you've resolved the steering box problem. I've been forever putting off trying to center the steering wheel on my car for fear that I'll mess things up. Tracking is straight but wheel is offset to left by 2 in. Whatdayado? GONZO.
 
gonzo said:
Tenaciousness paid off! Good to learn you've resolved the steering box problem. I've been forever putting off trying to center the steering wheel on my car for fear that I'll mess things up. Tracking is straight but wheel is offset to left by 2 in. Whatdayado? GONZO.
Click to expand...

This is not too difficult:
1) Disconnect battery first. Align steering wheel in "bad" position that corresponds to your straight-ahead wheels.
2) note the relationships of the 4 connectors on the trafficator wire that comes out of the stator tube where it connects to the wiring harness behind the grille; disconnect bullets.
3) loosen or remove grub screws around periphery of hub. Be careful - they're tiny.
4) pull trafficator out of hub into passenger compartment as far as you can without pulling the bullets into the front of the stator tube. Now you'll see the splines on the shaft
5) using a small, sharp screwdriver, pry circlip out of groove around periphery of splined shaft. Watch out as it may fly away.
6) pull steering wheel off splines and rotate it to the new desired position.

Assembly is the reverse. :cool:
 
I have a new steering box from AH Spares filled with Penrite Grease and a 14" steering wheel fitted to my BJ8. I have no previous experience with Healey's, my previous car was a 1954 MGTF with rack and pinion. I found the Healey steering a bit difficult to get used to after the MG so replaced the box. It's now much better but the total free play (i.e. the distance a spot on the rim moves before the steering engages) is still noticeable at 5/8" at the rim. Just wondering what the standard is for a new box and whether there's any scope for adjustment before I start messing around and make it worse! Also I'm wondering whether the condition of the steering idler factors into the equation.
AJ
 
5/8" 'play' is pretty good for a Healey; mine--BN2 and BJ8--have about an inch, which I believe is typical. It will never be as tight as rack and pinion. There is an adjusting 'thrust screw' on the top of the box; it sets the height of the peg in the worm. You sometimes can take some play out with it, but too tight and the steering can bind and may not self-center. I'd guess the AHS people got it as well-adjusted as possible.

Steering effort will be greater with a 14" wheel, and 'oversized' rims and/or tires. Replacing the upper king pin thrust washers with Torrington bearings helps reduce it a bit.
 
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