TR4/4A Steering shaft rebuild

[Popeye]

All,

I am working through the rebuild of my steering column / shaft, and wanted to share a few highlights:

1. To remove old bushings, as many have advised, I put two small sockets over the rubber "buttons" that stick through the column, and deformed the metal sleeve of the bushing in a vice. Then using a long piece of copper pipe (simply what I had around), I "hammered" the rubber bits out. Gently hammered, as I did not want to deform the aluminum housing.

2. To inert new bushings, I soaked them in hot water, and they went in fairly easy. I pushed with an appropriate socket and a wooden dowel (again, what I had around). Be careful when pushing in, as right when the two buttons "pop" into the holes on the column, the resistance decreases suddenly, and it is easy to push too-far. (Ask me how I know!)

3. The hard plastic white sleeves inside the bushings pop out pretty easy; I installed the steering shaft, then removed, and the lower plastic bit came out between the two bushings. Using a pick and my long copper pipe, I was able to gently maneuver the bushing back in place. I have no idea how I would do this if the column is installed on the car...??

4. Flex joints installed by squeezing them in a vice to align the holes. I am making my own ground straps.

A few questions:

What is the consensus on lubricating the bushings? I did not apply any lubricant.

Does the whole assembly need to come apart before installing back in the car? (My body is at the painter, and I can't do a quick check. Disassembly was 10 years ago, and I do not remember.) I have neither torqued nor peened the steering wheel nut, assuming the steering wheel needs to come off before assembly into the car.

Is it better to peen the steering wheel nut, or is loctite a good idea? Given the joint between steering wheel and shaft is pretty critical, is there anything special I should do? (Replace the nut - still available from TRF, ...?)

Any general advice?

Thanks!!

 

[glemon]

I don't think you lube the bushes in the steering column, but their replacement is a great step in making you TR drive as it should which is often overlooked.

I would not worry about loctite or some other means to secure the steering wheel nut, they seem to stay on pretty well just tightened to a reasonable level. In the unlikely event it can off your steering wheel would still be securely in place by the splines. It takes a good very straight (in line with the shaft) tug to get the thing off, and I have heard of and personally had many more struggles removing the thing than having it come off on it's own.

 

[charleyf]

All,


Does the whole assembly need to come apart before installing back in the car? (My body is at the painter, and I can't do a quick check. Disassembly was 10 years ago, and I do not remember.) I have neither torqued nor peened the steering wheel nut, assuming the steering wheel needs to come off before assembly into the car.

Is it better to peen the steering wheel nut, or is loctite a good idea? Given the joint between steering wheel and shaft is pretty critical, is there anything special I should do? (Replace the nut - still available from TRF, ...?)

Any general advice?

Thanks!!

The lower steering column should do okay to be installed as one piece. But of course you have the upper portions that fit into and through the dash that will need to be put in separate from the column. I agree no lubrication needed and only tighten the nut without peening or locktite.
Charley

 

[Popeye]

Thank you!