Remove engine/transmission advice needed

[Roberte]

I am preparing to have work done on my BJ-7 clutch which requires the removal of engine/transmission.

I have not had experience in doing the removal.

1) is it required to remove carbs?

2) Do carbs need to be re-tuned upon re-installation. (I have to have this done and it costs $. )

Any other tips/ suggestions that might make the process easier for me would be much appreciated.

Roberte

 

[steveg]

I am preparing to have work done on my BJ-7 clutch which requires the removal of engine/transmission.

I have not had experience in doing the removal.

1) is it required to remove carbs?

2) Do carbs need to be re-tuned upon re-installation. (I have to have this done and it costs $. )

Any other tips/ suggestions that might make the process easier for me would be much appreciated.

Roberte

You don't need to remove the engine or carbs. Undo throttle linkage from firewall and/or manifold (leave in place loosly) so any engine tilting won't bend it.

Jack up car on stands. Support the rear of the engine - I used a small piece of 2x4 wood* between the valve cover and firewall, remove seats and tunnel, undo driveshaft at front. Remove starter. Detach slave cylinder from bell housing. Detach OD wiring from trans.

* this is OK because the engine is balanced on the motor mounts - rearward pressure without the trans is slight.

Undo bell housing bolts. Support transmission (HF transmission jack is good - I've done it with boards between the trans and frame rails. Have a piece of plywood covering the passenger side floor. Be aware of position of special dowel bolts with longer plain shank.

You can use an old fan belt to support & pull on the back of the trans. Pull it out and to the right on the plywood. Two people or one Conan can lift it out of the car.

Now you can remove the clutch from the flywheel. You can also think about a rear seal if you don't have one. You may want to have the flywheel surfaced.

 

[British_Recovery]

The clutch can be replaced without removal of the engine. The gearbox can be removed from inside the car after adequate engine support. Lots of people do it this way.

 

[gonzo]

Just completed this myself on the BJ7. Follow what has been suggested on removal, but remember to:
1. Disconnect battery. Avoids a hot wire when removing starter.
2. Remove speedo cable and angle drive take-off. One less thing to worry about when hauling trans out passenger side door
3. Index mark driveshaft yolk to flange. Ensures proper orientation on assembly. Consider complete driveshaft removal to allow more space to position trans for removal and installation.
4. Flywheel is indexed to engine TDC. Look for #1 or similar marking and install same way. Dowel(s) help with positioning but could be 180 degrees off.
5. Invest in thick latex gloves. It's dirty work. Consider replacing all trans mounts - they're often oil soaked and deteriorated.
6. Replace Pilot / Thrust bearing in back of crankshaft only if there are symptoms. Otherwise leave well enough alone.
GONZO

 

[bob hughes]

When I had to renew my clutch I more or less followed Steveg's method. However, I removed the passenger seat also. This allowed me to shift the gearbox over into the passenger seat space.

I stuck a dowel bar into the rear of the crankshaft and supported the rear of the engine on the bar with another bar crossing on to the chassis. This allowed me to remove my jacks from the engine and move the car out of the garage, to open the passenger door and then remove the gearbox out of the car altogether.

Did it all on my own, after eating several cans of spinach :highly_amused:. I found that the pilot bearing in the crank was so badly worn that it fell out, the new one needed to be drifted in after a good soak in oil. The thrust bearing was shot, the clutch housing was shot, the forks needed re-bushing, all in all it was a job well done and to top it all I installed a rear crank oil seal while I was at it.




Bob