Removing Passenger Rear Bearing Nut

[pkmh]

Hello Forum,

Came the time for me to purchase new set of chrome wheels, tires and hubs for my Healey. But in trying to remove the old passenger rear hub, one lug nut refused to come off.

To make a long story short, I was successful in removing the hub by cutting it out around the affected lug nut/stud (without scarring the brake drum), then the remaining lug nut. My big mistake was to cut a portion of the stud which now requires me to replace the stud by having to go through the process of removing the bearing nut at the axle, etc., so that I can remove the affected stud and drive in a new stud.

I've read some older posts indicating the torque settings recommended when reinstalling the bearing nut (150lbs.). That much is mentioned. I ordered the gaskets and seals which are forthcoming. I plan to reuse the bearings and bearing lock washer (but I do have a new set of bearings if necessary to use as a replacement, if need be).

My questions are simple, hopefully...

A. I wish to use a correct size socket to fit the bearing nut which the nut seems to measures shy of 2 1/4", but when applying a 2 1/4" socket, the socket is too big. Has anybody done this that can advise what size socket would work? I have the breaker bars already.
B. And for the passenger rear bearing nut, does the nut unfasten clockwise or counterclockwise? The question can apply to the driver side rear as well.

Thank you and very much appreciated any input on the above.

Paul

 

[Michael Oritt]

Paul--

I believe the correct socket size is 2-3/16". It helps to grind the chamfer off of the socket so you present a square edge to the nut. The nut on the right side of the car is normal (righty tighty) and the one on the left is the opposite. You can--and should--get a new locking tab washer from whatever source you are using to get gaskets, etc., as its role is important unless you like being passed by your wheel. Now would be a good time to inspect the bearing surface on the axle stub and if it is scored install a redi-sleeve.

 

[dcarlg]

I think the bearing nut is an octogon, not a hex shaped nut. Don't tell anyone, but I used a hammer and a drift to tap the nut loose. Driver side has left handed threads.
Good luck.
Douglas

 

[John Turney]

I just looked at my socket. It's 56 mm [Yes, it's metric] octagonal. AH Spares has them for a reasonable price [otherwise I wouldn't have bought it]. Torque it to somewhere in excess of 100 lb ft. Also, the gaskets from the usual suspects tend to be too thick. The outer race of the bearing has to be clamped in place to prevent spinning it. A gasket goo, like Permatex or Hylomar may be better choice.

 

[steveg]

I got this from Healey Surgeons - a good thing to have over time:

 

[steveg]

In my experience, the octagon nut goes on to a certain point, then stops solidly. The wrench above...you hit it with your lead hammer, then it stops and you fold up the lock washer.

 

[Bob_Spidell]

... get a new locking tab washer from whatever source you are using to get gaskets, etc., as its role is important unless you like being passed by your wheel ...

I believe the locking tab washer can be reused several times as long as there's fresh 'meat' on the edge (at least, I do).

 

[pkmh]

Thank you all very much for the above info and advice!

Will inquire to Healey Surgeons regarding wrench. Otherwise, good to know 2 3/16" socket will do and yes, I did grind the 2 1/4" so now I'm the proud owner of that! (But it only cost me $20- with the shipping so I can live with it.). And good to know the metric equivalent of 56 mm in size. I now understand, for the passenger rear, the lock nut is removed counterclockwise (clockwise for the driver side rear). Considering the time process getting all my wheels in place, I will go ahead and order a new lock washer and keep the old one as a spare. Probably be another couple of weeks before everything's back in place.

Looking forward to see how my car behaves at higher speeds since gyration starts at around 50 MPH.

Thanks again!!

Paul

 

[Patrick67BJ8]

Have you had your brake drums balanced? Scuttleshake comes from them too.

 

[Duane_Rhynard]

Thank you all very much for the above info and advice!

Will inquire to Healey Surgeons regarding wrench. Otherwise, good to know 2 3/16" socket will do and yes, I did grind the 2 1/4" so now I'm the proud owner of that! (But it only cost me $20- with the shipping so I can live with it.). And good to know the metric equivalent of 56 mm in size. I now understand, for the passenger rear, the lock nut is removed counterclockwise (clockwise for the driver side rear). Considering the time process getting all my wheels in place, I will go ahead and order a new lock washer and keep the old one as a spare. Probably be another couple of weeks before everything's back in place.

Looking forward to see how my car behaves at higher speeds since gyration starts at around 50 MPH.

Thanks again!!

Paul

Paul,

Another thread about the octagon nut!

https://www.britishcarforum.com/bcf/showthread.php?108737-Rear-Hubs-bearings&highlight=Duane

 

[pkmh]

Have you had your brake drums balanced? Scuttleshake comes from them too.

Agreed!

 

[pkmh]

Paul,

Another thread about the octagon nut!

https://www.britishcarforum.com/bcf/showthread.php?108737-Rear-Hubs-bearings&highlight=Duane

Yes, read that. Some good info there. Thanks.

 

[pkmh]

Hi again everybody. Again, thanks for all the advice regarding ways to remove my passenger rear bearing nut.

I was finally able to remove the passenger rear bearing nut, but only after cutting the nut off (the 2 3/16" socket did fit, but even after the use of the socket with a breaker bar, the nut wouldn't budge). Carefully using a dremel so as to not cut into the threads of the outer shaft, then using a chisel and hammer on an angle, I got the nut loose andoff. A new nut is on order.

My next new headache...

...Removing the hub containing the bearing. So far, I have attempted to use a three jaw press which seats cumbersome around and behind the pentagonal shaped hub. Finally getting the press in a decent enough position and starting to press, I decided to stop applying further pressure in fear of possibly warping the hub. Has anybody had difficulty removing the hub with the bearings and what approach or technique can be suggested in removing the hub/bearing assembly without fear of damaging the hub?

Again, any suggestions greatly appreciated and thanks again!!

Paul
67 Austin Healey

 

[dcarlg]

Hi Paul.
I performed this operation last summer. Both sides.
Borrowed a slide hammer type bearing removal tool from Advanced Auto. Hub pops off easily.
Other parts stores have loaner tools also.
Good luck.
Douglas

 

[Randy Forbes]

I think the bearing nut is an octogon, not a hex shaped nut. Don't tell anyone, but I used a hammer and a drift to tap the nut loose. Driver side has left handed threads.
Good luck.
Douglas

Hmmm, this car was from Michigan...

Note that the direction of threads is stamped on this nearly obliterated nut.

 

[dcarlg]

OK, I'll be sure to use the proper spanner next time.
That looks pretty bad.

 

[Randy Forbes]

OK, I'll be sure to use the proper spanner next time.
That looks pretty bad.

I've seen them removed/replaced with a chisel before, but while exercising more restraint. That one was almost cut through the nut (makes me wonder how long they wailed on it before trying the opposite direction?) making it a good visual aid

 

[Michael Oritt]

You can use the axle shaft as a hub puller. Remove the hub extension and after removing the big nut and washer put the face of the axle shaft over the hub studs, then turn the nuts in so that the center of the axle flange is hard against the threaded end of the axle housing. Continuing to tighten the nuts one at a time will pull the hub off of the axle. You may need to put some spacers between the face of the shaft and the end of the axle housing. Once the hub has been moved from its full-in position it should come off easily.

 

[pkmh]

You can use the axle shaft as a hub puller. Remove the hub extension and after removing the big nut and washer put the face of the axle shaft over the hub studs, then turn the nuts in so that the center of the axle flange is hard against the threaded end of the axle housing. Continuing to tighten the nuts one at a time will pull the hub off of the axle. You may need to put some spacers between the face of the shaft and the end of the axle housing. Once the hub has been moved from its full-in position it should come off easily.

Sure do like your approach Michael of using the axle! Clever, economical idea!! I will give that a try first. If, for some reason, I should still experience resistance, then I will go with the slide hammer approach. Thanks to you and Randy on the solutions. Very much appreciated!

Paul

 

[pkmh]

Michael,

Applied your idea of using the axle shaft to remove the racer bearing Definitely working! Before doing, I decided to file any raised areas of each lug's back side and polish smooth just as an added measure to prevent the possibility of scoring up the back side of the axle shaft surrounding the studs. No scoring. Had to stop so I can purchase simple washers to serve as spacers to fit over the inner hub and complete the rest of the pulling process. I have a grinder if I need to grind the edges of each washer slightly to make a more custom fit over the inner hub. A couple of bucks. Again, terrific idea! Much appreciated!!

Paul