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TR4/4A Restoration options

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Rut

Rut

Obi Wan
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I'm putting together my game plan for restoring the 67 4a and I'm going to focus on the frame, suspension, and steering for now. I've got 3 4as, 1 4, 1 TR6, 1 TR6 frame with engine, transmission, and suspension/steering, and 1 restored TR6 frame for my 4a restomod. That said I should have plenty of good parts to choose from for stock, but I'm interested in building a 4a with components that address any 4a shortcomings from adjustable TA brackets, to strengthening the diff mounts and frame and upgrading the calipers. I would love to hear your opinions on what I should address while restoring this car.
Thanks, Rut
 
Have you considered modifying the rear suspension to a coil over shock absorber arrangement....IMHO..looks much neater than the lever type shocks or the shocks mounted on an outboard bracket.
The other consideration is how to strengthen the 4A rear frame so that there is less flex.
 
You've got much more experience with these but I have a couple thoughts. I didn't trust the rear hubs that I couldn't service and put in Goodparts. Helicoils in the trailing arms were much less expensive. The car felt soft in the rear so I put in heavy springs but in retrospect I'd stay stock in the front and just put new TR6 springs in the rear.
 
malbaby said:
Have you considered modifying the rear suspension to a coil over shock absorber arrangement....IMHO..looks much neater than the lever type shocks or the shocks mounted on an outboard bracket.
The other consideration is how to strengthen the 4A rear frame so that there is less flex.
Click to expand...
I would like to keep the original design of the car intact, but use better, more reliable components. I'm not trying to build the ultimate TR, but one that will solve some of the issues of the original design. My 67 that I had in college (68-72) was a solid axle and I much preferred it over my TR6 with IRS that squatted severely on acceleration. I'm guessing that there's a way to deal with that on my 4a.
Thanks, Rut
 
Bruce,
Thanks, I have a copy that covers the TR4a and I'm looking for options or upgrades that will improve the suspension and steering.
Rut
 
I would recommend you do what others told me to do. Cut several pieces of mild steel for brackets and then use them to strengthen and reinforce the front differential and spring bridge, as well as the vertical bolts and bolt housings for the differential mounts, etc.

I posted pics several years ago of what I did. I had the help of a great welder, the advice here, and a good number of phone calls to Richard Good of Goodparts. He had me literally box in those bolts housings so nothing could ever break, and that included welding the sides of the differential mounting bolts to the new brackets.

I also installed new CV axles from Goodparts. https://www.goodparts.com/shop/index.php?categoryID=20


But the main point I will relate is that my differential bridges looked perfect until we got under the car, buffed the old paint and grease off, and exposed the hairline cracks we all hear about. My reinforced frame and bridges are stronger than new.
 
Richard Good is on my list to call for the diff brackets and I'm still up in the air about the CV joints. I have a new set of sliding axles and I'll probably hold off for now. I've heard about the Toyota calipers and will use those to gain the additional surface area. Keep those cards and letters coming!
Thanks, Rut
 
I received my Rimmer winter sale catalog yesterday and they have their CV halfshaft assemblies on sale for ÂŁ375 or $463.71. These come complete with hubs, but no studs and look like a great deal. Lots of other parts on sale as well.
Rut
 
I've always wondered if it would be a good thing to use the solid axle frame and setup under a Six, or a normally IRS 4A. Then, you solve not only the shock issue, and axle issue, but maybe open up a chance to use a ford rear and different ratios. Plus it would be stronger for handling more horsepower.

Perry
 
I know I'm asking about brakes now, but can a TR6 pedal setup with a booster be installed in a TR4a? I think I would prefer that option over adding a booster to the existing master cylinder. If so, what's involved in making that conversion?
Thanks again, Rut
 
It can be done. You might have to use the inner bulkhead from the TR6 but I think you will just have to do some cutting and patching. I thought about doing that when making a TR250 clone.
Marv
 
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