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Ramps. What's the trick?

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SaxMan

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I purchased a pair of ramps from Harbor Freight to get the Baby Blue up off the ground when I don't need to take the wheels off.

https://www.harborfreight.com/solid-steel-auto-ramp-set-68365.html

The problem I'm bumping into is that the Sprite won't go up the ramp -- it just pushes the ramps forward. Am I missing something here?

I had a second problem that I couldn't even get BB into gear. Turned out my clutch lines still needed some more bleeding, there was a huge air pocket that I missed the first time.

I can work on the car without the ramps, I haven't had them the last 3 1/2 years, but having that extra clearance would be helpful for some jobs instead of having to writhe under the car.
 
Obviously speed. Hit the ramp at 40+ mph and you should be good to go. :devilgrin:

Get a couple of 2X6's maybe doubled up at the ramp end. put one end against the wall and the other against the ramp and you should be good to go. I would want someone as a spotter however.
 
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"I purchased a pair of ramps from Harbor Freight to get the Baby Blue up off the ground when I don't need to take the wheels off.

https://www.harborfreight.com/solid-s...set-68365.html

The problem I'm bumping into is that the Sprite won't go up the ramp -- it just pushes the ramps forward. Am I missing something here? "

Fix is easy peasy - just punch down a spike at the rear of each ramp, and the ramps won't move forward. Or put a bag of sand (or cement) behind each ramp. Or just put some rubber (old inner tube, rubber mat) under the ramp, to add "traction".

Works every time!

 
So, is there enough room/clearance when a your car(s) are on those ramps to, say, change the oil? Does the angle of the ramps prevent the sump from "fully and completely" draining its contents?
 
With such a small car, I just bailed on ramps completely. I jack the thing up (floor jack) and I use large concrete blocks that I've topped with 2x8 "pads."
 
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Concrete blocks can fail...I know I'm not strong enough to lift my BE off my chest.
 
GeorgeC said:
Concrete blocks can fail...I know I'm not strong enough to lift my BE off my chest.
Click to expand...

True, but if a given block can't hold 350 lbs., then I'm concerned about foundations in general. :eek: I can't fathom 4 blocks failing at once. Still, perhaps it would be better to use big wooden (or built-up) blocks.
 
Mark - a concrete (CMU, cinder) block can hold 350 pounds - as long as the weight doesn't shift, and as long as the weight is evenly distributed over the entire block. But a concrete block is really brittle, and can crack and collapse, especially if weight is concentrated on one small area.

Their advantage is being relatively light, and they're fine when they're stacked as a wall. But if weight is concentrated on a small part of the block, it'll likely crack and collapse.

TM
 
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SaxMan, the problem with ramps like that is that the weight of the car is still on the ground when the tire hits the ramp. Growing up, we always used a set of wooden ramps that my dad made that were long, almost four feet, and were very graduated. He built them up with progressively taller wood. The first level was just an inch or two, so by the time the tire hit the true rise of the ramp, all the weight of the car was already on the ramp and it never slid. You could retrofit your Harbor Freight items by permanently mounting them on a long piece of wood with a stout stop on the back. The weight of the car will then be on the combined unit before the tire hits the metal ramp.
 
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Thanks Tom. Yeah, this is why I've used a 2X8X16" pad on top. I know they can crumble, but the weight involved is so low. Supposedly they are rated for 1000-5000 psi. Again, it would take a catastrophic failure of two or more to... well, I'll be more alert. :rolleye:
 
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Funny thing: Reading the instructions, these ramps were designed for front-wheel drive cars. Oops. Guess I have to put these ramps next to the left-handed muffler bearings.

I did try again using significantly more weight behind the ramps, but the Sprite just pushed them. The way I have my garage set up a 2 x 6 isn't practical. I also discovered that the difference between the ramp height and the highest I can get the car up using a jack and stands is only about an inch. Probably not worth the continued effort for the Sprite. I will be doing my own maintenance on my newly acquired Nissan Rogue -- I'm sure it will have no problems going up the ramps, so it's not wasted money.
 
DON'T USE CONCRETE BLOCKS!

Having had one fail on me while under a Mini years ago.......I was lucky, hard it start to crack and turned my head sideways. Very lucky.
 
OK. :eek:
 
Jack stands are your friend.
 
I have a set of the heavy plastic ramps you can get various places. They have rubber pads on each end, and as long as those pads are intact,the ramps (usually) don't do what you describe. I think you just need more friction between the ramp and the driveway, maybe a piece of rubber or even an old inner tube.
 
Sarastro said:
I have a set of the heavy plastic ramps you can get various places. They have rubber pads on each end, and as long as those pads are intact,the ramps (usually) don't do what you describe. I think you just need more friction between the ramp and the driveway, maybe a piece of rubber or even an old inner tube.
Click to expand...
I agree! See post #3 above. Once I bought the plastic ones with the rubber pads I had no problem driving onto the ramps.
 
While at Home Depot today I came across a set of Rhino Ramps. They are made of plastic and were forty bucks, so I picked them up. They work really well. I drove the BJ8 right up. They are light weight, and even nest together when not in use. Very nice. Jacking a big Healey is a major pain, so a set of ramps that are easy to use are great.
 
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