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Tips
Tips

TR6 engine removal

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Yes, you will need to tilt it, might have to lift up the rear of the transmission to get it started. Take the rubber mounts off and take the shift gear out to clear the fire wall easier. When taking the lever out, be aware of the small shaft being pushed by a spring in the bottom of that hole. It stops vibration mostly and tents to go bong.
As a little bit of forward thinking, take the grill out, much easier to line up and tighten the bonnet when putting it back on.

Wayne
 
And you might want to raise the rear of the car to alleviate the angle needed to pull it.
 
rjc157 said:
I have a 75 tr6 is it possible to take out the engine and tranny as one unit
Click to expand...
That actually seems to be the preferred method.
When I have done it, I have the cylinder head removed, the sump and oil pump removed, alternator, distributor, too. I just want as much room as I can get...
Coming out and especially going back in...watch out for the accelerator rod that runs along the firewall.
 
All of the above but I haven't used Mickey's trick on raising the back end. It will help. Years ago Dad and I did a speed test. We had the engine and trans out in 45 mintues. Nowadays is s a around three hours with just me. Worst part is removing interior.
Marv
 
Operating on the assumption that you have already removed the interior and shifter, here is my approach. Raising the rear and lowering the front makes it much easier. I remove bonnet and set aside. Disconnect all the electrical bits from the body to the engine, then all the fluid bits (including clutch slave line), exhaust and the front cross beam above the crankshaft fan extension. After that, the front wheels come off and set the front suspension off the floor just enough to slide the engine hoist arms under the frame, then raise the rear. The engine hoist is then wheeled in place from the front. The balance point is near the back of the cylinder head, so hook up, then remove all engine and transmission mounting fasteners. You can then come straight up an inch or so and start backing the engine hoist out from the front of the car. The transmission may need to be pushed down a bit and the engine raised up to clear the front bulkhead and radiator support, backing up as you go. Once clear of the bodywork, you can lower the unit down for the rest of what ever you are going to do.
 
I always removed them separately as it seems much easier. Are you doing engine rebuilding or transmission work? Tedious part is removing the interior, though you can just remove the center section, and seats, and keep the rest in if not doing a further resto of the interior. I can get that all out pretty quick.

Perry
 
Just want to reinforce Wayne's statement.

The shaft he referred to is very small. It's been a long time since I removed a gear box but I remember finding a little metal cylinder on the shop floor. Not realizing it was an important piece I left it. That night as I reread the instructions for removing the gear box I realized I needed that part. I was at work early the next morning and found the part and the spring.
Since it's been so long I can only go by memory about the size of the part. Seems like it was maybe 1/16 diameter and 1/4 long? Feel free to correct me if I'm wrong.
Be aware of the part and keep an eye out for it. It's easy to lose.

BOBH

75 TR6
74 TVR
99 Z3M
 
Be willing to bet 90% of the TRs out there that little part is missing. Think only one of my Triumphs has that spring and ball still installed.

Marv
 
They're readily available new.
 
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