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TR4/4A Shop with lift ideas

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Rut

Rut

Obi Wan
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I'm starting to work on plans for a new shop and would like your input. I can probably get a 30x40 shop in the old pool house/shop space and I'll go with 12' ceilings and a 2 post lift. Please let me know your thoughts on 'must haves' and 'can't do withouts'...I do plan on piped in air and dedicated circuits along with full plumbing.
TIA, Rut
 
Mine is a 42x28 I had built more than 10 years ago. I'd suggest thinking about going with a taller ceiling for the lift bay. I went 13' 6". While 12' would work for the British vehicles, it would be pretty tight for pickups and such.

 
Jay,
Thanks, I do have a pickup truck and need to consider both weight and height. I will probably be limited to an entrance on the harrow end due to log size and shape.
Rut
 
Rut, I see you've asked about 4 post lifts (over on the Spridget forum). Thought I'd give you some thoughts on why I chose the 4 post....and to say thanks to malbaby and Kevin for their comments.
malbaby said:
Wow..what a garage and contents.
Click to expand...

mrv8q said:
Even my wife said, Wow!
Click to expand...

Hey thanks guys. Glad you approve.

I went with a 4 post lift and two rolling jacks. I chose it over a 2 post because of the variety of cars that I would be lifting. I couldn't be more please with my lift and have no regrets.
The rolling jacks aren't cheap, but boy are they a pleasure to deal with.



You can lift one end of the vehicle or both...depending on the task.





As was commented over on the Spridget forum, suspension work can be problematic, but it's not impossible or difficult (here I'm re-bushing the leaf springs on my '55 F100.



Makes changing oil a pleasure (no more creepers).



And the feature of additional parking when needed.

 
I was also going to suggest that a 4-post might be more versatile. Love mine. Although I don't have the sliding jacks. Cheers, Mike
 
Jay,
Thank you, that is exactly the information I need on lifts and I'm leaning toward exactly what you have. Having the lift on casters solves a lot of my issues with space and storage.
Thanks, Rut
 
Guy,
Thanks for that link. All of you are offering very good advice, so please keep those ideas coming!
Thanks, Rut
 
Rut...what is the style of roof you intend to build...I guess that there is a height restriction on your neighbours boundary.
 
malbaby said:
Rut...what is the style of roof you intend to build...I guess that there is a height restriction on your neighbours boundary.
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HOA restrictions can be a pain, but it is what it is. I've got to go with a hip roof to match the house which pretty much requires me to have 12' walls to get the clearance for the lift. I plan on installing an I beam along the ceiling for a track lift.
Rut
 
Some thoughts:
-If an option, an interior height of more than 12 feet would be good. I have 12 feet due to code restrictions, but I need to be observant with larger vehicles. An example is our F150 pickup. It's radio antenna is not adjustable.
-I'm happy to have one sliding bridge jack. If I need four wheels up, I use the jack tray.
-I have aluminum ramps, a real plus over steel.
-The only time I have felt the 4 post lift was at a disadvantage was when working on under floor master brake cylinders, which I have on three vehicles.
 
fpstude said:
Some thoughts:
-If an option, an interior height of more than 12 feet would be good. I have 12 feet due to code restrictions, but I need to be observant with larger vehicles. An example is our F150 pickup. It's radio antenna is not adjustable.
-I'm happy to have one sliding bridge jack. If I need four wheels up, I use the jack tray.
-I have aluminum ramps, a real plus over steel.
-The only time I have felt the 4 post lift was at a disadvantage was when working on under floor master brake cylinders, which I have on three vehicles.
Click to expand...

perry,

off topic:
but do you have pics or online albums of your studebakers?
my Dad was a Stude guy. Had a champion & silver hawk, back in the day.
 
Would your building regs allow you to have part of your hipped roof [perhaps on the non boundary side] immediately above your hoist raised....ie..A skillion section out from the ridge of the roof.
 
A couple of other things to consider for lifts would be a maxjax, they lift 6000 lbs and they are moveable. Bolt them into the floor when you need them, and removed and pushed out of the way when not in use.m they don't lift high enough to walk under, but a sitting creeper stool and you can roll around under your vechicle. Plus on the up side, you can put in lots of anchors to accommodate most size vechicles. I really like mine and would recommend it to anyone.
As for other shop idea are you gonna run in hot and cold water for a sink, heat? have you laid out your storage idea on paper?
My last peice of advice, is go as large as you can! You never have enough to space.
 
Rut said:
...along with full plumbing.
Click to expand...

I'm sure at some point you'll get into looking at code and taxes. I've been told that where I live putting a toilet in a garage moves it from the realm of garage to living space with a commensurate affect on property taxes.
 
Geo Hahn said:
I'm sure at some point you'll get into looking at code and taxes. I've been told that where I live putting a toilet in a garage moves it from the realm of garage to living space with a commensurate affect on property taxes.
Click to expand...

That's rather interesting considering that there was always a full bathroom in the plans for my shop building but it was explicitly forbidden to use the garage as living space under our county code so there was little impact on taxes. Now had it been attached to the house in someway, it might be another story but don't have anything definitive one way or the other on that front.
 
To answer Guy in post #15:





 
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