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TR2/3/3A Brake tube

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TomMull

TomMull

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I've got the rear brakes off thanks to a leaky cylinder and I think it might be wise to replace the steel tubing while I'm at it. I'd planned to do just the two pipes on the differential housing from bulk tubing (the good stuff) and re-use the fittings, but I see that Moss and others supply the whole kit. It is also probably a good idea to do the whole car at some point and at 120 bucks, the Moss tubes, cut to size with the proper flares and fittings installed seem the best route. Thoughts?
Tom
 
Hi Tom. No experience with the Moss ones, but brake safety is money well spent if you have conserns about current lines. I used copper-nickel ones and was very happy with them as the are much easier to form and are more corrosion resistant. Bought mine direct from Automec in UK. Cheers, Mike
 
You can buy the proper size tubing locally and borrow and pipe flare tool from a local FLAPS. I would reuse the original threaded connection pieces, they seem to just be better to me, then again I'm big on having 100% 1958 original stuff.
 
Thanks for both replies. I have the tools and a roll of copper nickel tubing left over from another job. Just wondering if 1. the new fittings are 100% correct, not too much interested in originality here but would like them to fit perfectly, and 2. the time and effort in fitting and flaring is justified. Of course both options require bending.
Mike, I find no listing from Automec for Triumph but their MG sets seem about the same price or a little more than Moss. I wonder if they are any better. Did you have any trouble with the fittings?
Tom
 
I have used Automec for 6 cars now, and just placed an order for another car this morning. Fittings were good and the pipe length was good. The copper-nic combo is easy to bend and work with.
Jerry
 
Tom,
sounds like you are experienced with the "fitting" part. Namely the bending. The bends right next to the wheel cylinders on a TR3 are the most difficult to achieve. If somebody were to offer these parts prebent, it would likely be worth what ever they wanted to charge.
Charley
 
The set I got from Moss a few years back was Cunifer (copper-nickel-iron alloy developed specifically for brake lines) and came in an Automec box. Fittings all fit perfectly, and the Cunifer line is soft enough to bend easily by hand in most cases. I only used a mandrel to make the really sharp corners into the rear wheel cylinders. PS, here's a shot of my modified mandrel.


The cut lines were a bit longer than original, but not really a problem as long as you pay careful attention to routing away from any obstacles. Unfortunately, I failed to pay enough attention in one area, with this result



Apparently one of the disadvantages of the Cunifer is that it is softer and more easily abraded than original plated steel. I didn't hear any noise or realize I had a problem until the brake pedal slowly went to the floor (fortunately in a parking lot near home).
 
Thanks, Randall. Good to know. Tom
 
If the Automec kits are as good as they were 30 years ago, they'll be great! In 1986, I completely redid every facet of the brake system on my 1952 Mayflower. The only problem I had with the kit was that it helped my identify areas where truly ham-fisted previous owners had done their very best to try to make something fit...kinda...sorta. ;) I ended up having to seek out and replace a union or two and some other bits; fortunately, those bits were not difficult to source, as they were essentially the same as those found on a TR2-early TR3 drum brake system!
 
There is a Goodridge 3 hose stainless steel braided kit for the TR3. Had mine for about 10 years or so.
 
mrv8q said:
There is a Goodridge 3 hose stainless steel braided kit for the TR3. Had mine for about 10 years or so.
Click to expand...
Got mine from TSi. I forget just when, but it's been quite a bit more than 10 years, maybe 20. The rear hose had failed and started acting like a check valve, holding the rear brakes partially on. I missed a club driving event after I pulled over to investigate the smoke!
 
Tom, Moss lines may well come from Automec. I dealt with Automec direct as they were less expensive at the time than ordering from US. I had some fitting issues with my early TR3 with Lockeed components. Automec was fantastic to work with to resolve the issues. Took some time but we got all sorted out. Cheers, Mike
 
mgedit said:
Tom, Moss lines may well come from Automec. I dealt with Automec direct as they were less expensive at the time than ordering from US. I had some fitting issues with my early TR3 with Lockeed components. Automec was fantastic to work with to resolve the issues. Took some time but we got all sorted out. Cheers, Mike
Click to expand...
Thanks, Mike, good to know. I do remember spending considerable time chasing fittings (before the internet) even for my Girling system. Customer service is valuable.
Tom
 
Tom that tight little bend right at the leaf spring and frame that twists up and around the diff on the rear was challenging for me. If I knew I could have bought one I would.
 
sp53 said:
Tom that tight little bend right at the leaf spring and frame that twists up and around the diff on the rear was challenging for me. If I knew I could have bought one I would.
Click to expand...

As far as I know, you can't buy them. The custom replacements are cut to the correct length with proper end fittings but shipped in a roll so you still need to do the bending. The nickel copper tubes, which have become popular, are much easier to bend than the old steel ones. A brake tube bender, which you can buy for not too much or make like Randall did, make it even easier.
Tom
 
TomMull said:
As far as I know, you can't buy them. The custom replacements are cut to the correct length with proper end fittings but shipped in a roll so you still need to do the bending.
Tom
Click to expand...
Classic Tube sells kits that are pre-bent. They're good. Years ago I just couldn't get the short lines on the front brakes bent to my liking. I went for their TR4A's front caliper lines (the hard line from the flex hose to caliper)...they were a perfect match to the originals.
https://www.classictube.com/left-hand-drive-girling-system-14923.html
 
Good news Jay. I have a couple of different tube bends, but finally bent the rear ones around a 3/8 drive socket extension by hand with the fitting on to get that 90 to work.
 
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