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BE Clutch Adjustment Bugsy IV

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Jim_Gruber

Jim_Gruber

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So in the short ride I took in Bugsy I noticed that clutch adjustment is really high. Like at 3/4 of the pedal before it finally engages with a very sharp, chirp of the tires. Granted I'm not yet used to this clutch but it appears the only way to adjust clutch is when mounted on the engine before attaching the gearbox. So could I use a piece of threaded rod with a union of 2 1/2" long to change the clutch engagement point. Not sure of the length of the clutch slave rod that is in there. Tranny is a Rib Case behind a 948. Per my Frank C. Notes The 948 and 1098 cars are only 2 1/2" long whereas the 1275 is 2 3/4" long. If I had a 2 3/4" long rod in there could that account for the higher than normal engagement point on the clutch pedal? Thoughts guys.


Beautiful day in Dayton 79 and sunny for a ride in Bugsy but I need to get brakes bled and brake pedal a whole lot more firm before I try out on real roads and in traffic. First mile long around the block took 3 pedal pumps to get it stopped. So definitely air in there I think. Back up on jack stands and wheels off again to address a couple of other safety concerns.
 
Cool Rick, I totally forgot about that adjustment point. Guessing I could do the same for the brakes after I validate that there is no more air in the lines. I had all sorts of interesting fixes
I was cogitating on.
 
Jim,

You have too may unknown variables to answer definitively. Chances are it's just the switch-like nature of a spring clutch, You are used to the diaphragm clutch of the 1275. You may also be able to correct the release point by making small adjustments to the pushrod at the master cylinder. Putting a rib case on a 948 requires a number of things to be changed, and the swap is typically done wrong because any and all parts bolt up, but are not necessarily going to work correctly together.

Correct measurements for pushrods (measured from center hole to end) are 2-3/8" for 948/1098, and 2-11/16" for 1275.

In addition to confirming you have the correct amount of freeplay at the slave and MC, you'll also need too check for wear/sloppiness at each and every pivot point, including the clutch fork. Here's info that's required to determine if you have the right mix of parts.

What back plate is on the engine?
Which front cover and fork are being used on the gearbox?
Has a too long pushrod been used, bending the release fork?
Has the correct release bearing been used?
What size slave cylinder has been used?
What condition are the clevis pins and pivot points?

The differences in parts and which should be used are addressed here.

https://gerardsgarage.com/Garage/Tech/TO_Bearings/tobearings.htm
 
Wondering if many years of sitting has caused some rust accumulation on the clutch assembly that could add to the fierce clutch hook up?

Kurt.
 
Gerard

All unknowns until I install your kit and the 5 speed. I will adjust slightly and see if I can change the engagement point to be more acceptable. But clutch engagement is definitely rather harsh. It's either on/off.
 
That's pretty typical of the spring clutches. Having the wrong mix of bits only makes it worse.

Jim_Gruber said:
Gerard

All unknowns until I install your kit and the 5 speed. I will adjust slightly and see if I can change the engagement point to be more acceptable. But clutch engagement is definitely rather harsh. It's either on/off.
Click to expand...
 
Thanks Gerard, as soon as I can resolve title issues with Bugsy II and have additional cash flow from sale, my 1275 is heading down to the engine shop to see why low compression on #2 and #3 betting it's a brass plug issue. Will try to rering, possible cam change and install a '67 hi compression head and get the 5 speed installed. The 948 feels pretty stout from a quick trip around the block. But I'm sure it's not putting out what a 1275 will give me. So the 948 and rib case is a temporary situation.
 
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