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TR6 One piece drive shaft?

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Gliderman8

Gliderman8

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I presently have my transmission out to repair the ring gear. Before reinstalling I'm considering ordering a one piece drive shaft to replace the original.
Since I have the HVDA conversion I used the locking collar that came with the kit. Putting a one-piece drive shaft in would eliminate the locking collar but thinking ahead might present other headaches.
Now I loosen the collar, collapse the shaft and remove the transmission. If I get a one-piece the diff. has to come out. If I ever needed to change the clutch the same scenario: remove diff., remove drive shaft and transmission.
For those who have the HVDA conversion, what have you done?
 
I'm not sure I understand why a one-piece shaft would later require the differential to be removed to change a clutch? Admittedly, I'm far more used to Heralds, most of which had long, SOLID one-piece shafts. To remove just the gearbox did occasionally require a bit of levering forward of the gearbox until the output flange and driveshaft u-joint flange could be separated, but that was about it. No big deal to do the levering.
 
Andy, maybe I'm wrong but to remove the gear box I have to slide the transmission to the rear of the car. Collapsing the drive shaft allows the room to do that.
With a solid drive shaft I'm not certain there would be enough room to slide the drive shaft back even after separating both flanges. Never having had a solid drive shaft I'm just guessing this would be the case.
 
I have a HVDA in my TR3, but it would be no different in your TR6. You do not need to remove the diff to remove the transmission. Earlier this year I had to pull the transmission due to a clutch failure (you may want to check yours closely before putting it back in). The yoke of the Toyota transmission slides into/out of the back of the gear box, allowing enough room to remove the driveshaft. -I pulled my driveshaft without messing with that locking collar. With the driveshaft removed, the gear box can be removed. Alternately, you could opt to remove the yoke instead of the driveshaft, but that would allow the oil to drain out of the gearbox while removing it.
 
TexasKnucklehead said:
I have a HVDA in my TR3, but it would be no different in your TR6. You do not need to remove the diff to remove the transmission. Earlier this year I had to pull the transmission due to a clutch failure (you may want to check yours closely before putting it back in). The yoke of the Toyota transmission slides into/out of the back of the gear box, allowing enough room to remove the driveshaft. -I pulled my driveshaft without messing with that locking collar. With the driveshaft removed, the gear box can be removed. Alternately, you could opt to remove the yoke instead of the driveshaft, but that would allow the oil to drain out of the gearbox while removing it.
Click to expand...

How did you pull the driveshaft? Maybe the TR3 is different.... on my TR6 I don't think I can "pull" the driveshaft even if both flanges are disconnected. Yes, I do know that the yoke on the Toyota slides in/out.
 
Gliderman8 said:
How did you pull the driveshaft? Maybe the TR3 is different.... on my TR6 I don't think I can "pull" the driveshaft even if both flanges are disconnected.
Click to expand...
I loosened the 4 bolts/nuts on each flange, and removed it. I don't think the TR3 and TR6 are different in that regard. I had a u-joint fail on my TR6 years ago, and loosened both flanges, removed the entire driveshaft, and replaced it with another that had good u-joints. (I had one as a spare in case my TR3 driveshaft was not use-able.) It takes a little wiggling around, but it will come out.
 
Gliderman8 said:
Andy, maybe I'm wrong but to remove the gear box I have to slide the transmission to the rear of the car. Collapsing the drive shaft allows the room to do that.
With a solid drive shaft I'm not certain there would be enough room to slide the drive shaft back even after separating both flanges. Never having had a solid drive shaft I'm just guessing this would be the case.
Click to expand...
Again, the bulk of my experience is with Herald-based cars. On those, the gearbox has to be raised just a bit; meanwhile, once the driveshaft is disconnected, it usually drops down enough so that it's not in the way.
 
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