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TR6 Horny car just won't quit. On top of that, likes diesel. Go figure. Think mechanics

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2wrench

2wrench

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Hi, everyone. Turn my car's wheel and the horn honks.

Recently replaced points and condenser.

Car ran fine for couple hundred miles.

Now is weak off the line and diesels like crazy when I shut it off. Kind of coughs on take-off.

Car shop advanced and retarded timing. Car still diesels.

Any suggestions?
 
Hi
On the horn issue: Pull the button off and Check to make sure that the wire and that grounds the horn through the button (horn push assembly) is not frayed and shorting to ground.The next thing to check (this was my problem) is that all the grounds straps
1. the ground strap around the flex coupling Moss part #667-095
2. The ground strap around the steering box Moss #736-300 are intact
On the run-on issue: Carbon buildup on the piston tops or in the head glow after shutoff. Often the engine runs backwards. I have tried a little water spray down the intake to help decarbonizing. As far as weak performance anything is possible. Good luck
 
Remove at least one spark plug being served by each carb and have a look at their condition.
 
2wrench said:
...Now is weak off the line and diesels like crazy when I shut it off. Kind of coughs on take-off.

Car shop advanced and retarded timing. Car still diesels...
Click to expand...

The shop is just guessing - something you can do for free.

I like the idea of examining the plugs - 1 & 6 will give you the ones most affected by the respective carbs - my guess is they will be black and that you will want to give a look and listen to your mixture &/or float level.
 
Thank you for your replies. I found the points to be set way too close. I suppose they can move. Maybe I didn't snug them down well.

Fortunately, I had been reading a thread wherein it was espoused in order to set points you can be creative utilizing a matchbook cover to set gap and utilizing the match strike portion to sand the points clean. I did this and it worked well.

The car ran well. It still dieseled, but not as bad.

Then I drove her again, as when I posted this, I was on the road for a Father's Day weekend drive.

Later, the steering on the car went to an extreme amount of slack in the turning of the wheel. Popping the hood, I found the steering flex coupling rubber had failed. Fortunately, I was not driving at freeway speed at the time, still a frightening experience.

So that is why my horn was honking. The coupling was failing and the ground strap was shorting as I turned my steering wheel.

I have ordered a new coupling and ground strap. My time is limited, but I intend to pull a couple spark plugs as suggested.

A last comment: The engine was recently rebuilt and carbon buildup should not be a problem, except for one thing, and that is that I am not so sure the choke is "disengaging" totally. If that be true, she could be running rich, which could cause/exacerbate dieseling, it seems.

The Forum has assisted me through an engine rebuild, despite my limited mechanic's experience, but I still struggle with the simplest of maintenance issues.

Thanks again for looking in on me. I will update you on the spark plugs' condition when I pull 'em.
Dennis
 
Oh, one more thing: It has been suggested that the carbs are allowing fuel to leak past them when I shut the car off. Especially on hot days, it is suggested that this could be a reason for dieseling. Just another thought. I suppose I could also go for the spraying of the water into the carbs. Probably will try that when I install the coupling that is on order. Could be here any day now.
Thanks,
Dennis
 
Hi
On the flex coupling installation: Get a good hose clamp around the coupling making sure that the clamp tightening screw is position so it does not interfere with the body and squeeze the s**t out of it. With luck and a little finagling you will be able to get the shoulder bolts through. Maybe some others have a better way but this worked for me.
 
You might be right about the carbs leaking past. Some cars (not TRs ) have a solenoid shutoff on the carb that prevents fuel from getting into the intake after the key is turned off
 
2wrench said:
...I found the points to be set way too close. I suppose they can move. Maybe I didn't snug them down well...
Click to expand...

They can move but also the 'shoe' that rides on the center cam can wear. They used to include a little capsule of grease with every set of points that was to be used to lube that cam. I use a dab of assembly lube, others have different favorites for preventing wear there.
 
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