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TR2/3/3A Anyone have quality problems with TRF's TR2-4 ball joints?

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Bruce100

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Hiall,

Followingthe instructions (attached) from TRF that came with the new ball joints, Itried to torque to 75 lbs on the 9/16 threads nut on the ball joint that connects theupper control arm to the vertical link. I walked it up 5lbs at a timestarting at 50lbs, and stripped it at 70lbs on the first try, with a cheapertorque wrench that topped out at 80lbs. . I got a new 100$ wrench from Autozone, covering 40lbs –150lb range, and stripped the second one the same way, also at 70lbs. Both times, the cotter pin hole was “almost” fully exposed in the nutcastellation, needing just a flat or two more tightening to be what looksright.

WP_20160613_13_59_40_Pro.jpg

Ithink there is a quality problem. I called TRF, and they say they havehad the same batch for a few years now, no complaints. They want me toship it back for them to examine, etc. I was wondering, if anyoneelse install these from TRF in the last few years? Had any issues?
 
Per the Tr4 Workshop Manual, the tightening torque for the Tr4 ball joint slotted nut is 55-65 lbs-ft not 75-85 lbs-ft.
Never had a quality problem with the TRF ball joints.
Got a feeling the torque instructions are wrong....
M.
 
You got me thinking. Guess what you get when you convert 55 ft lbs to Newton meters? 75. I think TRF instructions are wrong in that they specify the NM torque but label it ft lbs. Can't reach their tech support line, will keep you posted
 
I installed a set on a TR3 about a year ago. No problems getting them on . Project is not finished so it is just sitting there.
Charley
 
Bruce100 said:
You got me thinking. Guess what you get when you convert 55 ft lbs to Newton meters? 75. I think TRF instructions are wrong in that they specify the NM torque but label it ft lbs. Can't reach their tech support line, will keep you posted
Click to expand...

Even if the manual was wrong at 75 ft.-lbs, you would still have this problem:
Both times, the cotter pin hole was “almost” fully exposed in the nutcastellation, needing just a flat or two more tightening to be what looksright.
Click to expand...

Any other mods to the front suspension/steering?
 
I painted the control arms with a thick chassis paint before I realized what it would do to the thickness of the assembled unit. I sanded it down, that should fix the hole not being clear of the nut castellation I hope.
 
I replaced mine with TRF ball joints a couple of years ago and the new ones were made overseas (Taiwan) and have metric fittings so I had to use the supplied hardware. I now have to remember when I do service that they're not the same size wrench as I would expect. Other that that, they work but I wouldn't buy a metric suspension part from Taiwan for my 3A again and if I had known I wouldn't have bought them in the first place for the same reason.
 
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