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OK,
I've read all kind of posts from over the years on how to stabilize your body with or without the doors on, so when you pull it from the chassis it doesn't get all twisted etc.
But my '62 3B sills (inner and outer) and floors are all pretty solid, no holes and just some pretty light surface rust that I can handle with some serious wire brushing and POR or equivalent from Eastwood. The under chassis itself is grungy with 50+ years of accumulated oil and caked on dirt, but thankfully no major rust. I've gone over it tapping it with a ball peen hammer listening for that soft sickening soft "thunk" noise. I get a solid steel "clang" or "ping" every 3 or 4 inches along the chassis members, even the rear spring mounts and outriggers.
Body panels (Fenders, doors and front valance) all need some love, but aren't horrible either. Of course that opinion may change when I pull them and see the horrors hidden behind. The rears (of course) have more "Bondo" on the bottom corners than I want. But I think they're all salvageable.
In short, I'm thinking of doing the work with the body "in situ", one fender etc. at a time and using Waxoyl, POR or similar from Eastwood to seal and stabilize any rust I find, including in the frame. Also replacing all the old "pointed" bolts with stainless kits from Macy's with new cage nuts spot welded on as I go, since I'll have the fenders off and easy to work on.
That way I can focus on the suspension, putting in a new brake system, the new wiring harness and the steering box (adjustable), which desperately needs a total rebuild. Might farm that out to Macy's?
Last part will be doing the engine, but this is my 4th engine rebuild, so that's the "easy" part for me. Just have to decide how much tweaking I want to do with it, e.g. cam, lifters, head shaving, etc. And of course putting in the new clutch, throwout and plate with my OD tranny and eventually fitting the hardtop to it.
What, if anything, am I potentially overlooking or not realizing by doing it this way?
I just haven't seen much in the way of others doing it this way, everybody, even the restoration books, all talk about 1 or 2 piece frame off. So I'm figuring I must have overlooked something or there's some awful pitfall I'll run into?
Paranoid? Sure, but in my defense, I've been driving a TR since I bought this one out of Calumet auto wreckers yard in 1968.
Don
I've read all kind of posts from over the years on how to stabilize your body with or without the doors on, so when you pull it from the chassis it doesn't get all twisted etc.
But my '62 3B sills (inner and outer) and floors are all pretty solid, no holes and just some pretty light surface rust that I can handle with some serious wire brushing and POR or equivalent from Eastwood. The under chassis itself is grungy with 50+ years of accumulated oil and caked on dirt, but thankfully no major rust. I've gone over it tapping it with a ball peen hammer listening for that soft sickening soft "thunk" noise. I get a solid steel "clang" or "ping" every 3 or 4 inches along the chassis members, even the rear spring mounts and outriggers.
Body panels (Fenders, doors and front valance) all need some love, but aren't horrible either. Of course that opinion may change when I pull them and see the horrors hidden behind. The rears (of course) have more "Bondo" on the bottom corners than I want. But I think they're all salvageable.
In short, I'm thinking of doing the work with the body "in situ", one fender etc. at a time and using Waxoyl, POR or similar from Eastwood to seal and stabilize any rust I find, including in the frame. Also replacing all the old "pointed" bolts with stainless kits from Macy's with new cage nuts spot welded on as I go, since I'll have the fenders off and easy to work on.
That way I can focus on the suspension, putting in a new brake system, the new wiring harness and the steering box (adjustable), which desperately needs a total rebuild. Might farm that out to Macy's?
Last part will be doing the engine, but this is my 4th engine rebuild, so that's the "easy" part for me. Just have to decide how much tweaking I want to do with it, e.g. cam, lifters, head shaving, etc. And of course putting in the new clutch, throwout and plate with my OD tranny and eventually fitting the hardtop to it.
What, if anything, am I potentially overlooking or not realizing by doing it this way?
I just haven't seen much in the way of others doing it this way, everybody, even the restoration books, all talk about 1 or 2 piece frame off. So I'm figuring I must have overlooked something or there's some awful pitfall I'll run into?
Paranoid? Sure, but in my defense, I've been driving a TR since I bought this one out of Calumet auto wreckers yard in 1968.
Don
