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Running like a pig

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nicko

nicko

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Hi ever one
hope you can help me ? Had a problem starting my bj8 it had always been a good starter and very reliable. I traced the problem to a broken L.T terminal in the distributor cap .I replaced it and it started first time but wasn't firing on all cylinders . So I checked the spark plugs they were fine [relatively new] I changed the distributor cap, rotor arm ,ignition coil, and condenser still no better . Next I checked the fuel pump working fine [had re built it a few years back ] checked then the floats in the carburetters they were fine .The carburetters had been set up and I hadn't had any problem with them. So now it starts first time ticks over but when I try to rev the engine it splutters and wont rev high . one more thing the rev counter stopped working a year ago had it repaired but still not working in the car not sure if this is any thing to do with it. Any advice would be much appreciated Nico
 
Niko:

Try fresh petro may be a bit of water in tank??


OH! Be sure and check the timing too over the total advance range.
 
Last edited:
Thanks Keoke for your prompt reply, I will give it a go but not sure it's that as it is in a garage, so doesn't go out in the rain.
Cheers,
Nico
 
One sorta weird thing that happened to me that caused erratic running was a carburettor needle that was loose. Sometimes, it would stay in the vacuum piston and the car would run fine, but sometimes it would drop into the jet and effectively eliminate 3 cylinders.
 
I would re check your firing order on the wires/ cap. I've also had brand new condensers that were bad also so I wouldn't hesitate to change your new one.
 
I second the "bad new condenser" suggestion. I was once stranded in the desert west of Phoenix due to a new condenser failing, and I was too stubborn to swap it because it was...new! I now carry the "old" one as a spare. Also, make sure that the points and condenser are properly installed, since there are parts that need to be insulated from each other. I've seen the ignition short out during the mechanical advance. As soon as the short happened, the engine slowed, the advance backed off, and the car continued to run - just not under any load. GL, Jim
 
Bob_Spidell said:
One sorta weird thing that happened to me that caused erratic running was a carburettor needle that was loose. Sometimes, it would stay in the vacuum piston and the car would run fine, but sometimes it would drop into the jet and effectively eliminate 3 cylinders.
Click to expand...

I second this, having had it happen last November. The other similar thing: the rear main jet would stick down in the 'as-choked' position after the choke handle was returned to normal. Both provided the aforementioned pig-like driving; both happened on long freeway drives where I limped home. Both were immediately apparent on removal of the carb domes. The sticking jet was cured by sanding the circumference slightly so it slid better in its carrier.

I've had flaky coils which would cause missing. Coils have QA problems these days like the condensers do.

Interestingly the loose needle gave me the best mileage I've ever had - around 25mpg. It forced me into the right lane at 55mph. :cool:
 
Since it sounds as if your problems began with the ignition, I would double check everything there first. As others already suggested, change the condenser and check the firing order of the wires. And make sure that the parts that fit over that post where the condenser lead connects to the points set are installed properly and properly insulated.
 
What colour are the plugs, do they get sooted up? I had a problem with over fuelling last year and did not realize it, I changed all the ignition side, using my spares ( not all brand new) played about with it, changed only one jet because of sooted plugs and still could not get it to run. Took it to my local Healey man - he spent 2 weeks on and off trying to get it right, I spent a small fortune because he renewed the ignition side completely, it sort of ran OK for 20 miles going home then started firing on 5 cylinders again. Whipped out the plugs and they were sooted up, I renewed the second jet and bought new needles and we are running fine now. The car had been running fine on the original jets and needles for 12 years then decided to play up just like that. I must say that checking the old and new needles there was a visible difference though they were stamped up correctly, I suspect a PO decided to reduce the thickness of the needles for some reason.

On the other hand it may be running short of fuel, could there be dirt in the carbs or a blockage preventing a high fuel flow, I have experienced that as well.

:cheers:

Bob
 
Hi everyone,
thanks for all your suggestions. I changed the fuel , but that didn't work. I double checked the ignition and the firing order, that seems fine although I have not changed the new condenser.The plugs had a bit of carbon on them but not much. I opened up the carburettors and checked the needles. they are tight , not loose. One of the jets didn't move freely when the choke was pulled out. So I think maybe the next thing would be to change the jets and the needles unless anybody has any other suggestions.
Cheers,
Nico
 
nicko said:
Hi everyone,
thanks for all your suggestions. I changed the fuel , but that didn't work. I double checked the ignition and the firing order, that seems fine although I have not changed the new condenser.The plugs had a bit of carbon on them but not much. I opened up the carburettors and checked the needles. they are tight , not loose. One of the jets didn't move freely when the choke was pulled out. So I think maybe the next thing would be to change the jets and the needles unless anybody has any other suggestions.
Cheers,
Nico
Click to expand...
have you checked your mechanical advance with the engine running using a timing light? I've seen them stuck before.
 
"So now it starts first time ticks over but when I try to rev the engine it splutters and wont rev high ."

I had exactly the same problem on my 1959 Mercedes 190b. Everything tested fine - ignition, fuel, carb, spark - when the car was at rest, or idling. But give it some gas and it stumbled, never rev'd up, and usually died.

After learning many new four letter words (in German of course), I discovered there was a loose connection *inside* the distributor - so when the vacuum advance activated,the plate rotated and the connection would lose contact. You'd never see it because you're not usually looking inside the distributor when the engine is idling.

Tightened the loose nut on the contact - and all was well. But took my almost a month to figure it out.

Tom M.

 
Some have had the distributor's internal ground wire break where it can make intermittent contact. One of my friends had his replaced by a lame mechanic using regular stiff wire which affected the advance.
 
One more thought: You might have a large vacuum (intake) leak somewhere (though that would make some cylinders run lean, and would likely be worse at idle). A blown intake manifold gasket could do it; do you have a vacuum gauge?
 
Hi Everyone,
thanks for all your help. Have managed to sort out the problem.
one of the things I had done wasI to change the points and set them up. Before I did anything else I rechecked the spacing of the points and sure enough it wasn't right.
After resetting it was back to its good old self,
So as it was a sunny but cold day today, I took it out for a run, with the hood down of course !
Thanks again !
Nico
 
nicko said:
Hi Everyone,
thanks for all your help. Have managed to sort out the problem.
one of the things I had done wasI to change the points and set them up. Before I did anything else I rechecked the spacing of the points and sure enough it wasn't right.
After resetting it was back to its good old self,
So as it was a sunny but cold day today, I took it out for a run, with the hood down of course !
Thanks again !
Nico
Click to expand...
For future reference one thing that can also cause this problem is not tightening the condenser properly. Had this problem with a Mini many moons ago.

Cheers,
Dan M.
 
nicko said:
Hi everyone,
thanks for all your suggestions. I changed the fuel , but that didn't work. I double checked the ignition and the firing order, that seems fine although I have not changed the new condenser.The plugs had a bit of carbon on them but not much. I opened up the carburettors and checked the needles. they are tight , not loose. One of the jets didn't move freely when the choke was pulled out. So I think maybe the next thing would be to change the jets and the needles unless anybody has any other suggestions.
Cheers,
Nico
Click to expand...

Unplug the White/Brown wire connection from the coil that goes to the battery cutoff switch in the boot. The cutoff switch has been known to start shorting out the ignition via that white/brown wire.
If you still have the original coil installed, it is time to replace it. When they go bad the car will start and idle but run like a pig when revved.
 
Ed_K said:
Unplug the White/Brown wire connection from the coil that goes to the battery cutoff switch in the boot. The cutoff switch has been known to start shorting out the ignition via that white/brown wire.
If you still have the original coil installed, it is time to replace it. When they go bad the car will start and idle but run like a pig when revved.
Click to expand...
i believe the white wire is with a black stripe.
 
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