It's been a few years back, but my local speedo shop said "No Problem". Just bring them the old cable, so they could get the threads right and for about $100 (then), they would build whatever ratio I wanted. Probably not the same threads on the ratio box, but that price included new cables from transmission to speedometer. I'm sure West Valley Instruments
https://westvalleyinstruments.com/ or North Hollywood speedo
https://www.nhspeedometer.com/ could do the same thing today (though the price might be closer to $150 by now).
But before doing that, I would make sure it is a ratio problem. Are the odometer and trip meter also off by 20%? If the odometer is accurate, then your problem isn't ratio but speedo calibration. The original speedo I got with TS13571L read high by around 20%.
There are various ways to recalibrate, I used an ad-hoc AC electromagnet to weaken the flying magnet in the speedo. As you can see, just a few turns of hookup wire wrapped around a bolt, and my old Weller soldering gun for a low voltage, high current AC source.
As it happened, I weakened the magnets a little too much (who knew it would work so well?), and had to remagnetize. Another ad-hoc electromagnet, DC this time, using a capacitor bank to give a big jolt of current (but too short to burn up the wires).

(The batteries visible in the photo wound up not being used, instead I used the bench power supply to charge the caps.) That took it back to too strong, so I used the degaussing tool again but didn't get as close with it.
The result was darn near perfect. I used a hand-held digital tach from HF to check several speeds on the lathe, and then used the lathe to turn the speedo head so I could easily check at various speeds. The chart I made up matching lathe speed to indicated speed is visible in the first photo above. I worked back and forth between the 24 mph and 65 mph while adjusting magnet strength, then when those indications were good, I double-checked at 40 and 108. IIRC it read just a smidgeon high at 108 (about 110 indicated), but that is plenty good enough to suit me.
Of course, all that is just working with the tools at hand. Lots of other ways are probably better suited to what you have on hand.
Here's an article showing how to get it apart, and move the needle
https://app.box.com/shared/embyus13g9
Someone else used a permanent magnet to improve the flying magnet
https://bullfire.net/TR6/TR6-40/TR6-40.html