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Timing chain tensioner help

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BIGBALDGUY

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I'm rebuilding a 3000 engine for a friend and having trouble finding information. I bought the service manual on a cd but can't get it to open, I hope someone here can help me. I see the timing chain tensioner is oil pressurized but also has a manual adjustment. Anybody know how to do the initial adjustment? I also need the torque spec for the cam nut. I'm sure I will have more questions later, thanks for any help.
 
BIGBALDGUY said:
I'm rebuilding a 3000 engine for a friend and having trouble finding information. I bought the service manual on a cd but can't get it to open, I hope someone here can help me. I see the timing chain tensioner is oil pressurized but also has a manual adjustment. Anybody know how to do the initial adjustment? I also need the torque spec for the cam nut. I'm sure I will have more questions later, thanks for any help.
Click to expand...

This is more of a manual-type question, as a detailed explanation is needed.
Manuals are available used or new on eBay or Amazon.
screenshot.419.jpg
 
Thanks for the reply. I've already spent money for the service manual disc, that I can't get to work. I'm far enough along with this build that if someone can help me out with the tensioner adjustment and the cam nut torque I can finish this project.
 
On the back of the tensioner body or directly opposite of the rubber slipper pad there is a small hex head plug with a lock tab washer. If you are removing the chain tensioner, with the plug out you need to insert a 1/8" allen wrench and turn the wrench clockwise, as viewed from the opposite end of the rubber pad, untill the rubber pad is free from spring pressure. If you are installing the tensioner, you release the tensioner for operation by inserting the allen wrench and truning it in an anti-clockwise direction as far as possible and push up on the slipper pad with your finger to engage the chain. If you look at the end of the rubber slipper pad you will see the allen hole and notice a helical groove in the slipper pad shaft with notches in the groove. These notches prevent the slipper pad from releasing tension during operation and are there to account for chain/pad wear. Hope this helps and have a good day!

John
 
Thank you! That helped a ton! Just by looking at the tensioner I figured out how it works but wasn't sure of the initial adjustment. By any chance would you have the cam nut torque spec? Thanks again!
 
The manual is misleading. Take the plug out of the bottom, insert the Allen key and rotate it while pressing the plunger/damper pad into the housing. Hold it in and mount the assembly onto the front plate and screw in the two retaining bolts. Once you're sure it won't fly apart, release the plunger and let it press against the chain. Now tighten everything and replace the bottom plug and tab washer.
 
It's not an adjuster , think of it as a no tension lock to allow assembly which once you have stuff assembled you release the lock to allow the spring pressure to do the initial tension and the oil pressure takes over once she's running .
 
Cam nut torque spec? There is nothing in the books that I know of. I have always just tightened it up. Never used a torque wrench. Just thinking about it now i would say that I probably used something like 50 to 55 lbs of torque. There is no force pulling the cam sprocket off the cam so no need to go overboard with torque. In fact it is just the opposite... the cam is being pushed forward into the cam thrust plate which has no effect on the sprocket. Plus there is the tab washer to keep the nut from turning after it is tightened.
 
Thanks for the info. On the opposite side of the tensioner there is a rubber faced guide for the chain. After I put the timing set on I noticed the side of the links are very close to hitting that guide where it bolts to the front plate. I don't see any way to gain clearance, it's just a "bolt on and go". Am I missing something?
 
I think you are now asking about the timing chain vibration dampener fitted to the 6 cylinder engines. Here's a pic, ... I hope.
 

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BIGBALDGUY said:
That's the piece. The side of the chain passes VERY close to where it bolts to the front plate.
Click to expand...
there was problems with some aftermarket ones delaminating a few years ago. I think Denis Welch in the UK makes a high performance one. Somebody will chime in?
 
The early engines didn't have the extra guide as its called. Also, you need to fit two paper gaskets each side of the metal plate that the tensioner is connected to. This will prevent an oil leak prior to the oil reaching the rubber tensioner block. I know this cos I did it today.
Also turn the engine over by hand prior to fitting the timing cover, then again with the timing cover fitted to determine that there's no difference.
I've had the pulley surface bind up on the inner steel lip, just behind the front oil seal due to a distorted timing cover.
Johnb
 
There is a YouTube video about the chain tensioner on the Moss Motors channel. I haven't looked at it in a while but it covers more than one style of tensioner.
 
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