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Difficulty removing end rods and cross rods

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SteveHall64Healey

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Gents,

I'm replacing the rubber covers on my BJ8 steering rod assembly. Some of the cross and end rods are popping out easily and some won't come out at all. I've tried tapping with a hammer, soaking in penetrating oil. I just tried a ball joint separator but the two prongs are too far apart to push the pieces apart, and I don't think a narrower tool is available . Has anyone faced this problem before - any advice?

thanks
Steve
 
image.jpg Try one of these three, the fork type come in two sizes, one for American cars, and the smaller one for imports, but I most prefer the adjustable type pictured on the end because I don't like beating on things! Your cross shaft has a left and right hand nut, the left hand nut should be on the left front of the cross shaft. You can apply a little heat before you break them loose if they are stubborn. You can buy all of these tools at Pep boys.
 
SteveHall64Healey said:
Gents,

I'm replacing the rubber covers on my BJ8 steering rod assembly. Some of the cross and end rods are popping out easily and some won't come out at all. I've tried tapping with a hammer, soaking in penetrating oil. I just tried a ball joint separator but the two prongs are too far apart to push the pieces apart, and I don't think a narrower tool is available . Has anyone faced this problem before - any advice?

thanks
Steve
Click to expand...

I've used HF's tie rod separator, which is the right-hand item in the picture above. It's tough on the rubber boot, but usually works OK.

One time I undid the tie rod nut about 1/8" and put upward pressure on it with a bottle jack, then heated the pitman arm next to it with a propane torch. The weight of the car made the separation happen quickly.

FWIW - the pitman arm puller at the link is too big for the tie rods.
 
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This cheap thing will bend or break get a good one for both applications you will use it more than once.

Course now you can remove tie rod ends using two ball peen hammers.-:highly_amused:
image_18336.jpg
 
The two (2) expertly timed ball-pein hammer thing definitely works, and is sometimes still used as a last resort, but this requires less precision, not to mention swinging room ;)

IMG_2358.jpg


IMG_2359.jpg
 
Does anyone know the torque range for the castellated nuts on the rod ends? Normally a range is specified to enable lining up the nut with the cotter pin hole.
 
SteveHall64Healey said:
Does anyone know the torque range for the castellated nuts on the rod ends? Normally a range is specified to enable lining up the nut with the cotter pin hole.
Click to expand...
. Although it is not listed in my Healey manual, my official Bentley Triumph Tr-6 manual says 35 to 50 lbs. when tightening the ball joint to vertical link. And 24 to 32 lbs. when torquing the ball joint housing to upper wish bone. The castle nut on the trunnions are 50 to 65 lbs. This should be a good guide line I think. Of course you should refer to the Healey manual for proper steering idler end float. A more precise way to determine the correct torque spec for any fastener would be to research the torque spec recommended by industry standards.. I used to have all the proper specs when I was a Machinist for many years and would raid the engineering department on a regular basis! :smile:
 
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