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rebuilt gauges

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M

mightymidget

Jedi Knight
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Just couldnt sell my Bugeye project, so trying to get myself involved in a plan to stay focused on rebuild of my 59 Bugeye, So made list.

On my list for this year is to install all gauges in the dash. What is everyone doing? Trying to find NOS/NIB, finding good used? My perferred would be to have my instruments rebuilt. Anyone doing this?

Also seems fuel/sending unit match is critical, suggestions on easiest way to do this properly. Want to install fuel cell do need to get correct sending unit matched to gauge.

This Bugeye is being rebuilt piece by piece, not restored to a car show winner, so not sure if it is OK to use different year gauges, I am planning on orginal big number speed/tach

Also Peter rebuilt complete disc sudpension for me, still in boxes, what about rack/pinon ? Buy new, any venors rebuild?
 
For gauges Nissonger comes recommended, also Palo Alto Speedometer. Rebuilding a set makes the most sense, that way you know you have something that will work as well as possible. I'm also going to have my tach converted to electronic guts as I'll be using an alternator (Nissonger can do that, others as well I'm sure). I like the original Bugeye gauges, so I'll be using a rebuilt set of those for Penny.
 
Using an alternator doesn't involve tach conversion.
Replacing points and condenser by electronic triggering, like Pertronix, often does though.
 
Roger said:
Using an alternator doesn't involve tach conversion.
Replacing points and condenser by electronic triggering, like Pertronix, often does though.
Click to expand...

If the car is outfitted with the mechanical generator driven tach, the alternator conversion does require a gauge change. The Smiths RVI model tachs (loop of white induction wire on the back of the gauge) are the ones that typically don't work with electronic ignitions. The later RVC types work like a "modern" tach and are OK with aftermarket electronic ignitions.

Regarding the fuel cell and sending unit.... The early cars did not have a voltage stabilizer for the fuel and temperature gauges. The sending units have a variable resistance from something close to 80 or 90 Ohms = Full to zero (0) Ohms = empty. The 90 to 0 calibration (full to empty) was used by some Chevrolet cars so look for an aftermarket sender in that range for your fuel cell. The calibration will almost certainly not be an exact match between the Smiths gauge and aftermarket sender. The gauges are fairly easy to calibrate to exactly match the sender. Read over the pages at Barney Gaylord's MGA-Guru web site. He explains how the gauge works and then how to calibrate it. Start with the links below. There are several pages of very informative text and photographs.

How the early fuel gauges work...
https://mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/fg_01.htm

How to calibrate the early fuel gauge...
https://mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/fg_06.htm
 
dklawson said:
If the car is outfitted with the mechanical generator driven tach, the alternator conversion does require a gauge change.
Click to expand...

Yup -- Bugeyes use that sort of mechanical tach, driven off the back of the generator. It is nice to be able to switch it over while keeping the original look. I really like the Bugeye gauges, and it's nice to keep it stock looking.
 
I'll second Nissonger. My guy with the MK VII Jag just sent his in and they were cleaned and rebuilt, including making clock digital with analog face, and returned within a week. Clock has bee absolutely accurate for 2 weeks, so far.
 
mightymidget said:
What about the rack and pinion?
Click to expand...

Just checked, and you can get new racks from Moss (even RHD ones from Moss Europe for weirdos like me). They're pretty durable, but replaceable if needed. Don't know if anyone rebuilds them, others may have more info.
 
I'm going a different route for Bugsy II and going with Speedhut GPS speedo and matching tach. I'm upgrading to a 5 speed and alternators. I eliminate the need for a speedo conversion adapted box which are notitmriis for reliability and electronic tach will work with my - grounded BE without worry.
 
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