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TR6 low speed stall

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Charley-I could see that the fuel level was right at the top of the jet. Also, the front carb showed noticeably richer on the AF meter. Sputtering on acceleration might indicate a low kevel or too light oil in the dampers. Are the piston springs the heavier yellow ones or the lighter red ones (the same as used on the TR3-4 carbs?
Berry
 
The fuel level in the front carb was about 1/8 to 3/16 while the rear we got up to maybe 3/8" to 5/16". I believe the springs are the red ones. I had thought the Pistons were moving to fast. So tried heavier oil but only had 15-40 and 30 wt. We did not see any difference except when we tried some 0-20 and that made it worse.
I had considered that the suction on this engine should be higher than a TR4 but the spring recommendations only look at the carb diameter, or at least the ones I found.
Charley
 
I can fix you up with a pair of rebuilt ZS carbs for 385 shipped.
 
Charley-The 8 oz. yellow spring is usually supplied along with the BAE or BAG needle in conversions for the TR6 using hs6 carbs. It will enrichen the mixture slightly compared to the lighter 4.5 oz. red springs commonly used on most of the other TRs. I don't know if it would solve your problem.
Berry
 
You don't by any chance have the vacuum for the advance on the distributor hooked into manifold vacuum do you? I needs to be on the carb port in front of the throttle plate. Just a thought.
 
Brinkerhoff said:
You don't by any chance have the vacuum for the advance on the distributor hooked into manifold vacuum do you? I needs to be on the carb port in front of the throttle plate. Just a thought.
Click to expand...

There is no vacuum advance on this distributor. It has a vacuum retard which we have disconnected.

Berry,
Checked the spring again and compared it to a red spring It is yellow. The color on it looked more like light rust but it is a lot heavier than the red springs. Once I had yellow in my mind it does look yellow, pretty sick yellow but yellow.
Charley
 
Sorry Charley, its been awhile since I've worked on one with just the retard unit . The earlier cars had an advance and retard unit . Look on page 60 Moss catalog part no. 560-159 is an advance conversion for your distributor. It would be worth looking in to . Does you ignition just have the mechanical advance then? If so , then what kind of running advance in timing do you have? The camshaft / distributor combo might be an issue.
 
It appears that they were trying a lot of "stuff" to accommodate the smog stuff. We seem to be doing fairly well with the mechcanical advance at this time. At low idle we have about 10 advance and about 32 over 3000.
Talked with Joe Curto again and recommended a heavy damper oil. That will be the next test. We are presently using 30 wt.
Charley
 
Tried some "heavier oil" in the damper 80 wt. It eliminated about 90% of the remaining problem. Still getting a short term stall on a few corner turns. Especially one curve at the bottom of a hill which turns left to go uphill. But I can do tight figure 8's with not a cough or sputter. All other driving seems to be good.
Charley
 
We have now gone to the next stronger spring in the carbs- the green ones. It brings us to the same place the heavier oil took us to. That would be getting rid of the virtually all of the forward motion stall. BUT the situation as previously described on the corners still exists to a small amount. I am confounded as to why it wants to stall when I try to accelerate coming out of a 90degree corner. If I accelerate into and throughout the curve it does not stall.only when I let off the gas going in and then give it gas at the end of the turn. Then once I am going straight ahead it picks up and goes.
Charley
 
WELL it looks like we may have finally come to the point where the car finally runs as it should. The latest fixes were first the rear float bowl is a AUD 2450 ( as is the front) and it is now changed to a AUD 1310 as found on earlier HS6 carbs like the AUC 209's on TR4A's. This float bowl raises the fuel level. Along with this it now has different float bowl lids. This is because the first lids had the floats hinged in the front of the front carb and in the rear of the rear carb. All of the other HS6's seem to have the floats hinged at 120 degrees off of that. There may well be some other reason that the car is now running as it should but this latest fix seems to have finished off the problem.
And NO I would not buy a new set of HS6's to put on another car. I would rebuild a carb that came off of that car. I do like SU's but this has been a nightmare to figure out. Though the catalog says these SU's are for a TR6 I do not believe they are a straight bolt on change.

Thanks to all for your input you provided many interesting venues of thought.
Charley
 
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