To slush or not to slush

The 100-4 fuel tank is dry as a bone. It hasn't had gasoline in it for years. I shake it and tip it in all directions and flakes of rust colored junk come out the filler pipe. Some is rust no doubt, and some is dry residue from the last time it was slushed. With the baffles in the tank and the small filler pipe opening I can't seem to get it all out. It would seem my choices are:1) new tank (pricey) 2) slush it again 3) run it the way it is. I have an inline sediment filter between the tank and the pump. I don't trust it to do 100% of the job. I can't run the risk of flakes of any type getting to the carbs or worse, into the engine. The exterior of the tank is very clean with no evidence of leaks or weak spots. I don't like the idea of gooey glue like stuff in the tank but if anyone has had good luck with it I would like to know. Otherwise what would YOU do?

What I would do:

1) Clean, etch and seal with these products (or similar): https://www.hirschauto.com/prodinfo.asp?number=ARK-01
2) Test that there is no hole in the pickup line
3) Install the tank (assuming no problems)

I put the BH sealer in my BJ8's tank over 20 years ago; I've had no fuel-related problems. We got a used tank for our BN2 and it turns out there was a rust hole near the top of the pickup tube (my dad thinks it's where the flux from the soldered connection ate through the metal). If you have even a pinhole leak in the pickup tube your fuel pump will run-on and burn out early.

here is how I do them, steel ones that is. 1st hot tank (hot lye solution) then flush, if rusty molasses drum til rust is gone, if clean phosphoric acid drum, this etches the metal for good bonding also removes surface rust, but has to be watched as not to eat metal. when dry MEK sloshed in tank then Red-Kote tank sealer, I don't trust other brands any more. Takes time but I'm doing the best to make the tank last even out last me! one strange thing every time I'm rotating the tank with Red-Kote in it someone comes, not to help...... Of course there are those that need a patch or a hole soldered, hot tanking takes care of all the gas residue, no problems welding or soldering with a open flame.

rossco said:

The 100-4 fuel tank is dry as a bone. It hasn't had gasoline in it for years. I shake it and tip it in all directions and flakes of rust colored junk come out the filler pipe. Some is rust no doubt, and some is dry residue from the last time it was slushed. With the baffles in the tank and the small filler pipe opening I can't seem to get it all out. It would seem my choices are:1) new tank (pricey) 2) slush it again 3) run it the way it is. I have an inline sediment filter between the tank and the pump. I don't trust it to do 100% of the job. I can't run the risk of flakes of any type getting to the carbs or worse, into the engine. The exterior of the tank is very clean with no evidence of leaks or weak spots. I don't like the idea of gooey glue like stuff in the tank but if anyone has had good luck with it I would like to know. Otherwise what would YOU do?

Click to expand...

I took my tank for a checkup during restoration to a radiator shop and they cleaned it inside and out, checked for leaks and then painted it gloss black.

Thanks for the good responses. All good advice. Think I'll start with the radiator guy and see what he thinks the overall condition is. Then possibly seal the inside. Really like the idea of saving the original tank.

On the 100-6 I did we powder coated the outside and did the eastwood inside coating. This tank should last a long time now.

Had similar choices years ago on my 3000. Did all those things but still had problems..Ended up buying a new tank....my vote is for a new trouble free tank..Pete

This summer had the exact situation with my BN4 tank.
I was able to remove 95% of the particulate matter just by flushing thank with very hot water. The hot water was a 5 gallon mix of TSP and Purple Stuff introduced at about 120psi using a flexible hose inserted thru the filler connection, sending unit opening and the drain opening. I then flushed with clean hot water until I was satisfied I had done all I could do.
My next step was to install drain plug and a plate to cover sending unit opening. I then poured 2 gallons of methanol into the tank and capped the filler. I agitated the tank by hand every time I walked into the workshop for a couple of days. (the methanol acts as a solvent to disolve much of the old gas residue that is stuck to the sides of the tank)
After draining the methanol, poured a gas/oil mix (2 gal to 1 qt) in an attempt to fend off rust. I again agitated the tank for a few days.
Finally I drained the tank, installed it and filled with fresh, non alcohol fuel.

So far, all is good.

"Finally I drained the tank, installed it and filled with fresh, non alcohol fuel."

Where did you get it?

Bruce,

Not to far from my house is a gas distributor that caters to the circle track race car guys. I can buy leaded 108 octane.

Almost always have a 5gal can around for my vintage race car. I use it in a 50/50 dilution in several cars.
The BN4 does not require it, but I add a little anyway.

Sometimes I mix a little caster oil in just to enjoy the aroma.

TFR1

I did not see this post when I submitted my question earlier today about welding the gas tank. Sorry. I am going to try the radiator route and see if there are any more surprises. I may as well take the radiator in at the same time......... Doug

Hawkscoach said:

I did not see this post when I submitted my question earlier today about welding the gas tank. Sorry. I am going to try the radiator route and see if there are any more surprises. I may as well take the radiator in at the same time......... Doug

Click to expand...

Ask the radiator shop about an increased capacity core while you're at it. It'll solve your overheating problems! I did mine and run an AC in Texas with a Texas Cooler...no overheating in traffic!

HEALEYJAG said:

Had similar choices years ago on my 3000. Did all those things but still had problems..Ended up buying a new tank....my vote is for a new trouble free tank..Pete

Click to expand...

I second that. I spent way too much time and $$$ on my 100-4 tank only to replace it at the end of the day. I work on British cars, TR's Healey's & MG's, the biggest issue my customers have are fuel related. www.britishcarmechanic.com

thumbs up!