TR6 Wiring problem

[pdplot]

Car came out of shop for clutch bleeding. Clutch hydraulics fine. New problem. Same as before - green circuit out. Gas gauge, heater switch and temp gauge. Also 2 bulbs hanging down and blue and white double wire with female end disconnected. Where does the blue and white wire hook up to? I can't feel any male connection. Also the high beam light and the direction signal light are both out. My problem - I can't lay under dash any more and the bulbs don't seem to reach their sockets.

 

[Rod-H]

Blue/White are usually High Beam, so, that wire most likely connects to your high beam light.

You can find a color wiring diagram here:
http://www.advanceautowire.com/tr2506.pdf

Rod

 

[poolboy]

and the turn indicator bulb is probably OK but it won't blink if the fuse feeding the green wires has blown or the fuse is not making good connection in the fuse holder in the fuse box....fix that and the indicator should come back to life.

 

[pdplot]

Fusebox/fuse looks fine. Continuity and test light works when key is on. Break must be downstream under dash but I can't see/feel anything. Last time it was the fusebox - corroded connection. The high beam light works. I couldn't see it in daylight. The headlight hi-lo also works. So do dashlights. But 3 bulbs are hanging underneath. One is the oil pressure green light. The others may be dash lights for tach & speedo.

 

[Gliderman8]

I don't know what year TR6 you have but some of the later ones had "hanging" lamps to light the footwells.... Maybe that's what you're seeing.

 

[pdplot]

Maybe so. I disconnected the door lights way back

 

[pdplot]

Maybe so. I disconnected the door lights years ago and installed two lights on the sides of the transmission tunnel controlled by a toggle switch on the dash. They work fine - when I want them on, not when the driver door opens.

 

[poolboy]

Gauge lamps will be in sockets that have just one wire (red/white) that gets voltage when the headlight switch is ON....
Only that one wire, because the ground is established when the socket is plugged into the gauge.
Footwell and key illumination lights are fed by purple/white wires
The turn indicator and the low oil pressure light sockets have 2 wires...I don't remember the color code, but it's not a red or a purple
So that distinction should help you determine what's what.

 

[pdplot]

Thanks Ken. The purple and white wires have been disconnected for many years.
If I could only lay underneath on my back I could probably sort this thing out. Old Age sucks.

 

[poolboy]

I believe you..I'm getting there.
How about using a mirror ?

 

[Madflyer]

As a last resort to laying on your back remove the TAC leaves large hole it just has fore lamps OIL TURN and two lighting for gage. Most are long enough to replace our of dash then replace clips if all works. I did this last year to replace gage lamps to LED's and the TAC cable. Just two thumb nuts that hold clips. Madflyer

 

[pdplot]

1. I tried the mirror already. Confusing as ****. Everything backwards.
2. I dread taking the tach or speedo out working blind behind the dash. And in reassembling, got to remember to attach the black ground wire. Today's a rare rainy day - tomorrow and Friday too, so maybe I'll try to figure something out. In the meantime, I'll notify the shop who did the work.

 

[pdplot]

Crazy. I gave it one more try. On my hands and knees with a blanket on the doorsill, I connected up the oil light and the tach gauge light but could not see anywhere to hook up the blue and white (or maybe green & white) wire, so I headed for the fusebox again. This time I bypassed the fusebox and guess what - problem solved. I switched out the fuse with the spare and everything was still fine, so I figured the fuse - although it looked good - was probably bad, so it took it out and tested it with my test light. It was good as gold. That means only one thing. There's an intermittent open circuit in the fusebox. I tried to move the wires up to the top fused lugs but they won't reach and I sure don't want to cut and splice, so -only problem I can see now is how to get the old fusebox off - very little room between the bottom screw and the clutch m/c. Somewhere in my toolbox I think I have an offset screwdriver that might just work. Thanks for all your suggestions.

 

[pdplot]

Does anyone know if I remove the fuse box is it possible to solder any loose connection or is it sealed?
I'll first try to move up the wires one lug if they'll fit.

 

[pdplot]

Forget it. That's not the problem. Bypassing the fusebox no longer works. Circuit is dead. Besides, there's no way I can get that lower screw out without taking off the clutch m/c - not gonna happen. My offset screwdriver just rounds off the slot. Wires are as follows: Lug 1-bottom - one red in, other end-one red out. Diagram shows 2 on one end. Lug 2 in middle - purple one end, 2 purple other. Lug 3 - top. 2 green one end, looks like 2 white other end (thicker wires) - some black paint overspray on them from years ago. I had it briefly. I'm stumped. Any ideas?

 

[poolboy]

What's not working now ?

 

[pdplot]

Same as before - heat gauge, fuel gauge, direction signals, heater switch, wipers, washers. Haven't checked brake lights. Car starts and runs, lights work, including hi-beam switch, horn works. Question - I ran a 12v test light from white wire to battery. According to the wiring diagram, white is +, which means if I touch the - battery terminal the light should complete the circuit and light - am I right? Bit it didn't. It only lit when I clipped it to the + terminal, in fact if I didn't clip it, just touched it, I got a big spark. Not what I want to see. It looks like most of this non-working stuff comes off the voltage stabilizer, correct? If the stabilizer is bad...could that be it. What am I missing?

 

[pdplot]

Oh - and ammeter also works ok.

 

[poolboy]

The white wire is HOT (positive) but only when the ignition key is in the ON position...If you repeat the test with your test light, but touch the NEGATIVE battery terminal OR any ground instead of the positive battery terminal, the test light should light up...but the key needs to be in the ON position.

The stuff that doesn't work is stuff thats protected by fuse for the green wire circuits.
The white wire should be feeding that fuse and green wire when the key is in the ON position.

 

[pdplot]

1. White wire to - terminal of battery with key off - nothing.
2. White wire to + terminal with key on or off - light goes on.
3. The last time I tried it, there was a wisp of smoke and now nothing - no light with key on or off. Fuses look ok.
For 22 years this car ran with same wiring in place with no trouble.
What's going on?