Whats wrong with this BN1

[catfood]

Hi folks,

I'm in the process of dismantling the BN1 I have owned for nearly 20 years. Most of that time I have just managed to fix things to keep it on the road but the time has come to give it the full restoration it needs as I am fighting a losing battle trying to keep it running. Over the years previous owners (and in some cases I) have changed things, replaced old with new etc. So I now don't know what is correct and what is 'bodge'. I'm hoping you guys can find time to look at the pictures and pass any comment as to the correct positioning (or not) of the electrical components, wiring, carb linkages etc. In fact anything you can see that's wrong let me know. The following Flickr feed has most of the pictures I have taken as I have dismantled the car and are on Flickr for my own use when I start to reassemble so I'm not asking if you could inspect every picture in detail, just if you are bored, have nothing else to do you might feel like perusing the images....

Thanks in advance

Steve

https://www.flickr.com/photos/100932128@N02/

 

[Keoke]

Well most of it look old to me.
However, that brown stuff i see we call ROT that is all new.
Some one been playin in the electrics too.

Those are some great pictures you did too.

 

[simon1966]

Hi Steve, nice to see another RHD BN1. We are about at the same point I think? When was your manufactured? Mine is an Oct 54 car.

 

[AH100M]

Trivial, but gas tank and filler neck should be black and boot (trunk) lid prop rod should be zinc plated. As boredom occurs I will go back to your page and find more stuff.

Oh yes, wheels should be 48s, not 60s... And replace the wiring harness! Scary lookin'.

 

[DerekJ]

More trivia, incorrect steering wheel and your dash board is covered in vinyl whereas it should be painted metal. Definitely install a new harness, it will be simpler, and safer. Ideally you should try to get a copy of the Anderson and Moment restoration book but they sell for ridiculous amounts of money. Failing that try Clausagers 'Original Austin Healey 100'. They can be picked up cheaply and will give a general idea of what is right and wrong with your car.

Your car appears to be painted in a Colorado red colour similar to the 300s. This 'brighter' type red was not used on the 100s.

 

[DerekJ]

The carb set up, windscreen wiper motor and system and the all the dials are correct. I'd dump the 'modern' radio. And I'm sure you know that you have an alternator installed rather than the correct generator.

 

[HealeyRick]

Ideally you should try to get a copy of the Anderson and Moment restoration book but they sell for ridiculous amounts of money .

It's available for download on Google Play for a reasonable sum: https://www.britishcarforum.com/bcf...f-Anderson-Moment-Restoration-Guide-Available

 

[AH100M]

One of the rare options available on 100's was a vinyl-covered instrument panel. If the Heritage certificate mentions it I would keep it intact, or if it looks like it was factory-installed. Tough to tell though, and it might have been more properly paired with vinyl-covered cockpit trim, which you don't have.

The BN1 red is Carmine Red, ICI color code 8616/2260. BN2 (my car) is Reno red - a bit darker. The 6 cyl red is Colorado red - almost orange.

 

[catfood]

Thanks folks for you contributions.

Simon, the car build date was 3rd May 1955 and first registered for the road on 9th May.

It was always my plan to change the car a little from original to make it more drivable and safer. I intend to fix disc brakes (hence the new wheels which were changed when the 48s got dangerously worn - I was worried about the extra load discs might put through the 48s). UK roads tend to take a lot more concentration and care to drive on than my experience of driving in the USA due to heavier traffic and smaller narrower roads and I have felt the need for a new pair of underpants a few times too often relying on the front drums.

Also a collapsible steering column is on the list (even though horn and indicator will need moving to the dash). I've always been a little nervous of that long shaft of steel pointing straight at my chest. It made me drive more carefully but it doesn't stop the other idiots on the road.

The alternator was fitted when the dynamo got beyond the state where it could be reconditioned economically. Also the addition of a modern starter had her starting on the button rather than have that anxious wait to see if she would crank fast enough to start.

The wiring has always been a problem for me as you can see from the photos. I'm trying to track down pictures, diagrams and photos that will show me the correct runs for the wiring harness so if anyone has images of that sort of thing they are happy to share that would be greatly appreciated.

As far as I can tell my dash was vinyl covered to cover a large collection of holes rather than for originality as it wasn't mentioned on the Heritage certificate.

The one thing of note that does come from the Heritage certificate is that the car was originally sold through Donald Healey's own dealership in Warwick so there may be a remote chance the great man himself may have sat in or driven the car while it was there.

Thanks for the book recommendation Derek, I have the Clausager but haven't seen a copy of the Anderson and Moment and at the prices I've seen quoted I wasn't sure if it would be a worthwhile buy but I'll see if I can track a reasonably priced copy down.

Cheers

Steve

 

[pan]

G'day Steve,
heaps of pictures and I could comment on every one! The original handbook has a good illustration of the firewall layout for the wiring. By the way, the only electrical component that was on the cockpit side of the firewall was the 'flasher can' which seems to be there.
Ditch the old wiring, more trouble than it is worth. I used a wiring harness from Vintage Wiring Looms in Melbourne. Highly recommended.
I noticed the boot lid prop is incorrectly mounted. That should be mounted on the inner mudguard. That vinyl covered dash is not original. The optional cover that Bill mentioned did not have any padding and was of a heavier grained material. The option included covered cockpit surround. I found Anderson & Moment very useful but remember, all the pictures are for LH steer cars. The book focuses on appearance more than assembly.
There must be lots of nice original 100s around the Solihul area, at least there were when I visited (back in 1978) and AH Spares is just down the road!
Alwyn

 

[glemon]

In addition to what has been mentioned prior, there is toggle switch next to s\what looks like a push button for the screen washers, that toggle looks like the type used in 60s MGs and Healeys, not sure if it is right.

 

[DerekJ]

It would be useful to get AH Spares catalogue if you don't already have it. It has excellent diagrams with every part broken down. You will be able to see what is and isn't correct for your car.

 

[catfood]

Pan, Thanks for the suggestion. I've had the handbook for years but hadn't looked at it recently. You commented the only thing on the cockpit side of the firewall was the flasher unit but the handbook doesn't show the two overdrive relays on the engine side. My car originally had them with the flasher unit. Is that correct? Also, another thing that was 'mackled up' on my car was the return spring on the carbs. Where is that meant to be attached to?

Derek, I have the AH Spares catalogue. Unfortunately for electrical components it doesn't always identify where they should be positioned but I agree it is probably the single most useful book I have for seeing how things are put together.

Again thanks all for your help.

Steve

 

[catfood]

glemon, the toggle switch was a non original replacement for the overdrive switch. This will be corrected!

Steve

 

[pan]

G'day Steve,
You are correct, the overdrive relays are mounted on the fresh air channel, above the drivers feet. I didn't consider this to be part of 'the firewall'.
I was referring to the vertical panel between that channel and the shroud support.
Sorry.
Alwyn