As Art said/asked above, what is the temperature gauge doing? If it is still working then the problem is not the stabilizer.
If you can access the fuel sending unit (sorry, I don't know where that is on a TR6) the first test is to connect a jumper wire between the green/black wire on the sender and a good ground point on the car's chassis. Turn the ignition switch to the run position and watch the gauge. If it goes to full, the gauge itself is working.
If the gauge went to full during the first test above, remove the jumper on the green/black wire and move it to the black wire connection on the sender (assuming the TR6 sender uses two wires). With the ignition switch in the run position watch to see what the gauge does. If it goes to full, your problem is a bad earth connection via the sender's black wire. If the gauge does NOT go to full this time, you have an internal problem with the sending unit.
If your gauge does not go to full during any of these tests, repeat the ground wire test directly on the back of the gauge. Use your jumper wire between the green/black wire terminal on the back of the gauge directly to a ground point on the car's chassis. With the ignition in the run position, if the gauge does NOT go to full, you have a problem with the fuel gauge itself. If the gauge does go to full, look for a problem in the green/black wire to the sender.