TR2/3/3A Tr3a lost power go uphill

[leslie_choo]

Hi , I have just fully overhauled my tr3a engine with 89mm cylinder kit, new valve , spring and etc. I expect more power but I am experiencing the car lost of power when I try to go up hill ( such as car park) . It's ok if car speeds and go up hill but its not stalled and die off when I stop halfway and try to go up again. Here are the few things I have checked and seems to be all ok, I am lost now to what else I can do. Can you please help ?

1) fuel pump new facet pump
2) filter changed , no clogged
3) petronix electronic ignition , car starts with no issue
4) carb synchronized , air balance , fuel/air ratio good tested by gudson reader. Float level is correct
5) New spark plug
6) radiator no oil stain , car runs well on flat road

what else have I missed ?

 

[CJD]

Have you checked your timing?

 

[Don Elliott]

Is it possible that the sprocket that drives the camshaft is out one or two sprocket teeth ? If you have water in your fuel, this can be the cause. If your tank is down to say 1/4 full, fill it up with another well known brand of gas from another gas station. If it's full. syphon some fuel out and then fill with good fuel.

 

[leslie_choo]

Have you checked your timing?

I have not but I will, the thing is on flat road it runs well so I eliminated timing issue ... But yes I will have to check

 

[leslie_choo]

Is it possible that the sprocket that drives the camshaft is out one or two sprocket teeth ? If you have water in your fuel, this can be the cause. If your tank is down to say 1/4 full, fill it up with another well known brand of gas from another gas station. If it's full. syphon some fuel out and then fill with good fuel.

The fuel grade that I use is shell V power which is about 98octane and above I think , so I don't think it's due to the fuel grade

 

[Geo Hahn]

...I eliminated timing issue ... But yes I will have to check

In addition to the usual method of checking/setting timing at rest (static) you will especially want to see what advance you're getting at high RPMs when the weights are fully advancing the plate. A sticky weight or disconnected spring will rob you of power at high RPM/load.

 

[6TTR3A]

High RPM timing is hard to check under load but under no load should be 31 degrees at 3000 RPM.
A broken spring will give a much lower reading.
Also,a small (vacuum) leak in the intake system will create the symptoms you describe.
Try starting out in 1st gear on a level road just enough to overcome inertia,
(4 -5 MPH)then shift to 4th and full throttle.
If the timing is OK, it will be sluggish but progressive. If there is even a small vacuum leak, the
engine will most likely fail.
Not the most scientific approach but it has worked for me!
Frank

 

[leslie_choo]

Ok thanks! I am not familiar with the adjusting of timing and vacuum advance , I will drive down to my mechanic this weekend to check the timing. So I will ask him to adjust to 31 degree at 3000 rpm. Btw I just notice the 25d distributor doesn't have a vacuum pipe connect to the carburattor , does it matter ? I am using petronix ignition now.

 

[toysrrus]

Hi Folks,

i had the same problem when I had my "Stock" 948cc Bugeye.

Tried everything Un-successfully.

installed an "Elec. Feul Pump" and problem solved.

Russ

 

[Don Elliott]

Leslie - It was not the Octane Grade I was referring to. If water or something else is in your fuel (Ethanol), this could cause the problem. I run any ESSO or Shell Octane 87 in my 1958 TR3A and it runs as smooth as it did when I bought it brand new in 1958.

 

[toysrrus]

Hi Don,

Are you running "Non-Ethanol" 87 Octane? We can get that most anywhere for about $3.40 gal.

There`s a local "Oil Supply" dealer that has available "93 Octane, Non-Ethanol" for $4.00+ gal. That can get a bit expensive but I may just dump about 10gal. into my tank when she gets low & see what sort of changes (If any) I feel, hear etc.

Regards, Russ

 

[leslie_choo]

btw i saw A-R knob at the 25D distributor. in my case lost power when i drive uphill, should i try to turn the knob towards Retard ? or advance it ? btw there is no vacuum pipe and the carb the vacuum hole is blocked and no leaking.

thanks and best rgds

 

[Don Elliott]

Russ - I can't tell if there is any ethanol in the 87 fuel I use in my TR3A. Some pumps up here in Canada have signs that read "May contain ethanol". Others are "May contain up to 10% ethanol". I avoid the ones that read "Contains Ethanol". That's why I use ESSO or Shell. They have no signs at all. And they both work fine. On occasion, I have used other brands and have no problems. My TR runs like a Swiss watch. It just hums right along - mile after mile. I have driven 2600 miles this summer. For those asking about my health etc., I am fine. But with the cost of medical care in USA and the overnight charges in a US hospital (should be called a hotel), I just can't afford to take the chance of going to the USA anymore with my medical pre-existing conditions.

 

[martx-5]

I can only get gas w/10% ethanol here on Long Island, but my TR runs fine on it. If you have fresh gas in the tank, ethanol or not won't make any difference. The octane rating you use should be based on how the engine was built. It may require a higher octane number if modified from stock, which can use 87 (regular). I have to run 91-93 octane in my TR3 because I have 87mm pistons and a milled head.

To use more octane then necessary is wasting money.

 

[toysrrus]

Hi Art,

The P/O had the engine re-built (.030 over). I've been running 87 octane ( 10% ethanol) with no problems. My Brit car Guru Mech. simply tells me that the ethanol eats the seals from the "Inside-Out".

i guess it can't hurt to mix "Ethanol with Non-Ethanol" occassionally.

Happy Motoring,

Russ

 

[karls59tr]

btw i saw A-R knob at the 25D distributor. in my case lost power when i drive uphill, should i try to turn the knob towards Retard ? or advance it ? btw there is no vacuum pipe and the carb the vacuum hole is blocked and no leaking.

thanks and best rgds

There should be a vacuum pipe that that goes from the front carb to the distributor.Has someone removed the vacuum pipe and plugged the carb hole?

 

[leslie_choo]

There should be a vacuum pipe that that goes from the front carb to the distributor.Has someone removed the vacuum pipe and plugged the carb hole?

Yes the pipe is removed and hence I believe there is no advance vacuum function and I have also retard the R tab at distributor to max .

 

[Geo Hahn]

...I have also retard the R tab at distributor to max .

If you are referring to the vernier adjustor marked <A--R> that is merely a fining tuning adjustment once you have set the timing to some known position using the timing marks on the crank pulley.

There are several ways to set timing and also to check that the weights inside the distributor are operating correctly -- but the simplest is probably with a timing light that includes and advance measurement (often a small dial thing on the back of the gun). Then, in addition to setting the static timing (by the book) you can see what the timing is at idle and perhaps most importantly at high RPM.

 

[leslie_choo]

Hi all

Just to provide updates I checked the new cam shaft spec from moss motors and it says 0.13 valve clearance for both intake and exhaust . I did that.
I am trying to adjust 10 degree btdc but I don't have timing light so I adjust the distributor very slightly and I can see the rev increase, I lock the distributor and did a uphill test, along highway, it's so much better now . I am waiting for my new timing light to arrive before I can fine tune it further.

 

[MDCanaday]

Did you put in one of the made in turkey fuel pumps????? This is one of the things
you can enjoy when these little prices of trash fail. If this is the problem it will soon
stop altogether. Check it by manuel pumping of the external lever, if it reves up with
better fuel pressure, You have a turkey!!
MD(mad dog)