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Today's Stupid Question

T

Tinster

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Guest
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Twin carb conversion to cable assembly.


Step No.1- disconnect battery- done
Step No.2- remove existing carb linkage - oh my!

Is the carb linkage the folded metal assembly between the carbs or

is it the threaded horizontal piece from the throttle shaft to the vertical arm between the carbs?

OR - the carb linkage the entire shebang in the photo?

Stuck on step No.2 does not look promising for a successful
conversion install!

thanks,

carblinkage.jpg
 

Norton47

Jedi Warrior
Offline
Dale
I would say it's all of it. Review the new parts and see on the instruction where the cables attach to the carbs at.
On the shafts that pass through the carb or to part of the existing linkage.
 

Bugeye58

Yoda
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I would assume item #2 in this case, Dale.
Item #1 is the interconnection between the carbs and should be left in place.
I'm sure Paul will jump in and clarify more than I.
Jeff
 

Norton47

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Dale
Went back to first post and looked at photo of parts. I think part 2 only now also.
 

DrEntropy

Great Pumpkin
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Yup. Pull the pin on that ball socket, disconnect and work your way back to the firewall. Put Paul's (patent pend.) drop sheet under the carb side so's you don't need to crawl around on yer knees lookin' for errant bits, too.
 
OP
T

Tinster

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Here's the instructions:

https://www.rat-co.com/PDF/INST_%20INSTRUCTIONS%20FOR%20TLK%20KITS-1.pdf

I noted when I dry fit the throttle shaft vertical arm into the Ratco firewall bracket, the throttle is at almost 80%
full throttle with very little room for movement.

All help appreciated. This a much more difficult project than I anticipated. I'm thinking about maybe just reinstalling my original and selling this setup on Ebay.

d
 

DrEntropy

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...I think we're hammerin' th' bejeezis outta th' server. Tried to download it to save it here and got a 0.3kb download speed... wouldn't completely save it. Will try again later.

Don't give up too soon, Dale. Paul posted a very comprehensive set of photos of this recently. Didn't seem to be that bad a task, just required some MacGyverin' to get it right.
 
OP
T

Tinster

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Doc: I have Paul's install printed out. Not very much
help to me as Paul's is for a triple setup with solid
linkage between the carbs. I have that folded metal
connection linkage and only two carbs. Here's some
progress photos:

I am concerned about the pedal arm in the new bracket.
At idle, the pedal arm is below the new bracket. As
nstalled, the pedal arm is at 80% full throttle. The
arm has very little movement and bottoms out at 100% open
hrottle almost immediately.

Carb bracket seems to be no problem. Photo of what I have
removed so far is also included.

Thanks,

D

throttle-1.jpg


BracketCombo.jpg

removed-1.jpg
 

DrEntropy

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There were some bends involved in someone's post for installing that unit. I thought it was Paul's.

Don't quit yet, Dale. There will be an answer here soon, certes. Meantime I'll go hunting for that post.

You did renew the throttle cross-shaft bushings, right?
 

DrEntropy

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Okay, this is what you have, yes?

https://www.britishcarforum.com/bcforum/u.../gonew/1#UNREAD

As I think on this, where is your throttle pedal in relation to the part sticking out of the bracket slot? IOW: do you have full pedal travel with the bracket in place?

I think you have an adjustment problem, naught to do with the kit per-se. There should be enough adjustment in the cable end to allow linkage on the carbs to close the plates.

EDIT: You may need to shorten the outer sheath by some amount as Paul describes in his proceedure. The carb set-up (three vs. two, clips vs. solid couplings) has next to nothing to do with the cable assembly.
 

Bugeye58

Yoda
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Or re-position the slotted bracket. That's why I asked earlier if the throttle lever was centered in the slot. (Longitudinally).
Jeff
 

DrEntropy

Great Pumpkin
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Is there some amount of "slop tolerance" in the two mounting holes to allow for some adjustment? ie: as far forward as possible and keeping the actuator lever centered throughout it's travel.
 

Dave Russell

Yoda - R.I.P
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Tinster said:
Doc: I have Paul's install printed out. Not very much
help to me as Paul's is for a triple setup with solid
linkage between the carbs. I have that folded metal
connection linkage and only two carbs. Here's some
progress photos:

I am concerned about the pedal arm in the new bracket.
At idle, the pedal arm is below the new bracket. As
nstalled, the pedal arm is at 80% full throttle. The
arm has very little movement and bottoms out at 100% open
hrottle almost immediately.

Carb bracket seems to be no problem. Photo of what I have
removed so far is also included.

Thanks,

D

throttle-1.jpg


BracketCombo.jpg

removed-1.jpg

Hi guys,
See this pic:
https://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=32723&SortOrder=26
I think what Dale is saying is that with the new bracket installed as shown, it positions the control lever (23) such that the throttle pedal is very near the floor & there is little room for further opening travel before the pedal hits the floor.

Loosening the clamp bolt (24) should allow resetting the lever (23's) position on the cross shaft (16) so that the pedal is positioned higher off the floor & more travel is obtained.

If I'm all wet, please forgive me for butting in.
D








.
 

DrEntropy

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That was why I asked about pedal travel earlier, Dave. You're spot-on, dry as a popcorn f... err... you're not all wet. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/devilgrin.gif
 
OP
T

Tinster

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Dave, thanks,

You are 100% correct.

The throttle shaft and control arm in my car are so badly
Pedro-ized that Jeff Palya had to fabricate a custom carb
linkage assembly for me that was several inches shorter
than the TRF assembly I purchased.

My control arm (Moss No 23 ) is horizonatal at idle and
points directly toward the front of the car. At 100%
full open throttle, pedal on metal, my control arm is
vertical as shown in the Moss diagram.

Of curious note: my gas pedal has always been very high in
the footwell compared to the brake and clutch pedals. It is
now slightly BELOW the other two pedals when the control
arm is dry fitted into the new cable mounting bracket, as
shown in this photo.

BTW: New mounting bracket outer bolt is scraping the
vertical surface of the firewall. Cannot go forward one
more mm.

Do I need to fill the gap with washers?

thanks,

d
PartNo23.jpg
 
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