rust proof removal - how to

[Adrio]

I can't blame the DPO for this one. I was young and dumb 30 years ago and I sprayed that rattle can tar undercoating (the kind that never dries) everywhere there was not exterior paint Including the engine bay, boot, and the under side of the boot lid and bonnet.

Fast forward 30 years and I am tired of dealing with the sticky mess. I want to remove it and paint those areas body colour.

Is there an "easy" way to remove that stuff. I have been going at it with thinners and paper towels for about an hour and not made much of a dent. At this rate I will need a week of evenings at the least.

Adrio

 

[tdskip]

Maybe Eastwood Undergone, not the name but is a similar name...

 

[tdskip]

Here it is;

https://www.eastwood.com/undercar-drivetr...ng-remover.html

 

[PeterK]

Try a paint scraper, the kind that you pull, to scrape off the bulk. Then use the Eastwood stuff and scrape some more... and some more. Try kero or diesel fuel to finsh off the film after scraping.

 

[Russ Austin]

Try a wire wheel on a drill and then the eastwood stuff.

 

[Andrew Mace]

I've had decent success with a heat gun -- used judiciously -- and a wooden scraper (like a paint stirrer) in removing the bulk of such undercoat with little or no damage to paint underneath. Final cleanup can be done with kerosene or other solvents.

 

[mikespain]

There is no easy way!Best way I have found (and possibly the less messy)is how Andrew describes,just use enough heat to get it soft enough to scrape off,and laying loads of paper out underneath to catch it(if too hot just tends to spread it about)make various shaped wooden scrapers to get into the nooks and crannies.If you try with a wire wheel,all that happens is it throws it everywhere and the briush clogs up and renders it useless and marks the paintwork.

 

[M_Pied_Lourd]

Adrio,

Heat gun and a flexible scraper and lots of patience.

I found that brake cleaner really worked well to clean up the left over residue.

Cheers,
M. Pied Lourd

 

[dklawson]

This is another endorsement for Andy's method. I have used it on two cars now.

As a footnote to the heat method, use safety gear. By that I mean heavy gloves, a long sleeve shirt, and a full face type shield. Half melted undercoating can create very painful burns.

 

[tdskip]

If you try with a wire wheel,all that happens is it throws it everywhere and the briush clogs up and renders it useless and marks the paintwork.

Been there, can personally confirm that unless <span style="text-decoration: underline">99%</span> of the coating is off first this will just make a mess, sprary stuff everywhere and ruin the attachment.

 

[rooster]

If you try with a wire wheel,all that happens is it throws it everywhere and the briush clogs up and renders it useless and marks the paintwork.

Been there, can personally confirm that unless <span style="text-decoration: underline">99%</span> of the coating is off first this will just make a mess, sprary stuff everywhere and ruin the attachment.

Ok, I got one for all of ya... I've been doing this very thing on my car for the last while, and I've found something that works very well. I did try the regular wire wheel, and the heat, scraper methods, but they weren't working for me.

Get one of those 4 1/2 inch <span style="font-weight: bold">knotted</span> wire wheels and put it on your grinder. It will blast the stuff off in no time flat, and take the paint off too. :cooler: It won't touch the rust or remove any metal though. Make sure you wear heavy clothing, and wear a face shield and gloves or you will be getting bits of tar, paint and wire brush sticking into your skin. Use a smaller knotted brush on a drill for the tight areas.

Cheers

 

[Tomster]

Whatever you do or use please make sure your in a well ventilated area.
No Inhaling or KaBooms please!