Rust and gravel/stone chip prevention

[Member 10617]

Every year about this time, I need to get under my TR3, sand chipped areas that have begun to rust, and start the rust prevention process all over again: rust converter, rust encapsulator, topcoat wth chassis black. In some areas where flexible rubberzed undercoating has been chipped, I need to clear that away and re-treat.

I am disappointed that all of this doesn't stand up well to normal gravel chipping.

Now I'm thinking that perhaps applying epoxy bed liner to these areas (wheel wells, frame, etc.), with its high chip-resistant quality, might be the way to go.

Has anyone ever tried this "solution"... or are there other better solutions?

 

[apbos]

I am doing that on my bugeye sprite. Using Raptor Liner. It is tintable and will go in all areas that originally had undercoating. Of coarse this is a lot easier in a car the was completely media blasted before application.
Paul

 

[M_Pied_Lourd]

Ed,

I applied Truck Bed Liner on the wheel wells, inner fenders and outer lower rockers of my TR6. It has proved to be very durable and it is washable and doesn't hold dirt like rubberized coatings.

Cheers
Tush

 

[CJD]

There's always Glasurit. It chips the rocks instead of the rocks chipping it.

 

[NutmegCT]

Every year about this time, I need to get under my TR3, sand chipped areas that have begun to rust, and start the rust prevention process all over again: rust converter, rust encapsulator, topcoat wth chassis black. In some areas where flexible rubberzed undercoating has been chipped, I need to clear that away and re-treat.

I am disappointed that all of this doesn't stand up well to normal gravel chipping.

Now I'm thinking that perhaps applying epoxy bed liner to these areas (wheel wells, frame, etc.), with its high chip-resistant quality, might be the way to go.

Has anyone ever tried this "solution"... or are there other better solutions?

Just wondering - how did people deal with this problem back in the 50s and 60s? Did we just live with it?

Thanks.
Tom

 

[PAUL161]

Just wondering - how did people deal with this problem back in the 50s and 60s? Did we just live with it?

We did Tom! It wasn't that important to most people. They were every day cars, just transportation! When they wore out, we just got another. If you couldn't afford a new one, most people couldn't, there were many used car lots around or junk yards for parts. Paint back then wasn't what it is today. I remember the folks bought a new 1946 Chevy, maroon in color, in two years the paint was fading badly. Worst paint I've ever seen! We had two kinds of paint, Lacquer and enamel! Lacquer for the bodies and enamel for the fenders and running boards because it was soft and could take stone bruises better. Remember, during the 50s, there were many cars still on the road from the 40s, thirty's, even some from the 20s! PJ

 

[DNK]

Ed- Por it

 

[CJD]

From what I remember, the rich traded in their cars every year, the average every couple years, and by 3 years they were rusted out around the lower panels.

The northerners looked for southern cars (unrusted bodies), and the southerners looked for northern parts (parts lasted longer than the bodies).

Seriously, if you are worried about chips, next paint job go with Glasurit paint. On a well prepped car it is indestructible. Instructions say you cannot even buff it after a couple days, it's so hard.

 

[GBRandy]

If I ever do a frame up restoration, I would have the frame and inner wheel panels done with Line-X.

Crazy I kjnow, but I drive my cars and this stuff is tough. I have had it in my Pick-Up bed for 12 years and have hauled full loads of gravel, recycled iron, wood, etc....and it looks brand new.

If I can have them tone down the texture it would be the ideal frame protection IMHO.

 

[Member 10617]

Thanks for all the useful input. My front wheelwells are coated with rubberized undercoating from Eastwood, so there's not much I can do to reverse that situation. Actually, the rubberized undercoating is holding up very well and only requires a quick spray here and there once a year.

My rear wheelwells are not undercoated, just painted. I have some protective rubberized fabric on part of them to temporarily protect them, but that is where I am thinking of applying the bed liner. Eastwood has a product called Gator Guard II Epoxy Bed Liner that can be brushed on and adheres to painted surfaces. It looks like something that would work for my purposes.

I also need to use it on some on the undercarriage areas that get beat up by sand and gravel on the road.

I think I'll start with the undercarriage and monitor its performance. If all goes well, I'll apply it to the rear wheelwells.

 

[Got_All_4]

Do your touch up again and than use a clear chip guard over top.

 

[Member 10617]

Following up my plan with so me more research, I decided that part of my problem is that I used Classic Black (an Eastwood product) that is very good but a little too lacking in chip resistance for me. So I have decided to scruff the Classic Black with 400 grit sandpaper and repaint with Eastwood's Extreme Classic Black, which is said to have better chip resistance. I have put the idea of using bed liner on hold for the moment.

But, Got_All-4 has raised my interest. The use of a "clear chip guard" sounds promising. Can you recommend a specific product?

For the record, I am not promoting Eastwood products... just pointing out what I use. I am sure there are many other products that would work just as well.

 

[alanjohnturner]

In the UK the pro restorers swear by this:

https://www.hammerite-automotive.com/stonechip.htm

Al.

 

[Member 10617]

Al,

Many thanks for the information. I would prefer something clear, but I'll look into it.