Removing 66 BJ8 Windshield frame

[ron wilson]

Last fall I posted a question re the procedure to remove the windshield frame on a 66 BJ8 and receiced a few replies. I decided not to proceed with the idea last spring and just drove the car all summer (only reason I want to remove the windshield is to enable me to replace the rubber seal.
I have been told to remove the dash pad and then to proceed with looking for a couple of troublesome bolts for the frame itself. My problem is I cannot figure out how to remove the dash pad in the first place. I have bent open a couple of metal clips, removed the tonneau connecting bolts and removed the rearview morror but the pad does not budge.
what is it I am overlooking.

 

[RVMAN]

I'll be watching this thread. I've got the same problem myself.Good luck.

 

[shorn]

On my 64 BJ8, I just straightened (unbent) the two metal clips, one on each side, and removed the mirrow. It was not necessary to remove the tonneau studs. Then I just lifted the padded dash from the side opposite the windshield and mine came right out. However, if you are replacing the rubber seal between the windshield frame and the car body, you are in for a real tough job. The new seal just doesn't slide right in. And for the bend in the windshield, I have been told that you need to heat and stretch the seal to make the turns. Good luck.

 

[Keoke]

Ron, the information provided so far in removing the top dash pad is correct.It may be that the PO added the carpet buffers between the metal scuttle and the wooden backing of the pad thinking they should be glued to both surfaces rather than just to the scuttle. I would try making a non destructive probe maybe a thin stiff plastic of some type and see if you can locate the attachment points. Assuming you are successful here. Get a friend to help you futher remove the windscreen, because it is heavy.In the middle of the windscreen you will find a small bracket which is bolted to the scuttle.This bolt Hopefully does not have a nut on the under side of the scuttle and should simply unscrew feeing that part of the frame.Should this bolt be missing do not worry about it now there is a very simple fix for it.Now, located on each side of the frame down below the top of scuttle but affixed to the scuttle sides are a set of bolts.Access to the retaining nuts will require that the footwell panels be removed. These panels are secured under the door fuzzy with glue .Use extreme caution {Patience} to free the ends. between each of these lower portions of the window frame should be a pair of shims one on each side located between the scuttle side and the frame.With these fasteners all removed you and your helper can,using moderate force, lift the windscreen free of the car.Let me know here on the forum which rubber seal you are going to replace and I will hopefully guide to completion.-FWIW---Keoke

 

[tahoe healey]

Be advised the Moss rubber seal does not fit the bottom grove. Don't even waste the time trying. I wasted two days before someone infromed me there are those that will work.

 

[MotorHead67]

I actually installed a Moss rubber seal on my BJ8 about a month ago. It took a lot of dish soap and a lot of pushing and pulling but it did go in and is now sitting nice and flat to the body. (The one I removed curled up). Would have been nice if it wasn't so tight in the windsield groove!
I also replaced the dash pad and the new pad is a bit longer on the outside ends. Ron- is it possible that your dash pad is locked between the dash panel and the door pillar?

 

[Keoke]

TH, they are a bit difficult to fit. My only problem with the Moss parts was they would fail{Crack/Split} a short time after they had been installed.I do not remember where I obtained a good one,but it was probably from Healey Surgeons.---Keoke

 

[tahoe healey]

I think that is who I got the second one from. What a difference in ease of instalation. Hardly any swearing.

 

[bob hughes]

Guys
You should not be trying to slide the new rubber on, I have one to put on so I have discussed it with the restorers over here, they all say that you fit one edge of the rubber in the groove first, all the way round, and then starting at one end you gently lever in the other edge with the flat of a screw driver (best if it was an old one with the edges slightly rounded) or similar, the rubber would need lubing of course and be carefull not to push the screw driver through the rubber. They say it is not easy and you just need patience. I have yet to do mine but other jobs need doing first.
Best of luck
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/england.gif

 

[Keoke]

Bob , You are correct.However, JPG makes such a tool that is fabricated out of nylon.Perhaps other glass fitters are a source for a similar type tool.If a screw driver is used it should have a wide tip and be reshaped so the tip describes a slight radius and champhered so it does not have any sharp edges. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif---Keoke /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/patriot.gif

 

[Hangtown Healey]

I examined my old original bottom seal and decided it was in pretty good shape so I reused it. The Moss item looked hopeless. One trick that helped get the frame back together was using a couple of ratcheting tiedowns because the new glass is not perfect either.

 

[ron wilson]

Thanks to those of you who responded so promptly re my Windshield rubber replacement question. I will not be able to get at it for a few days but will let you know if any progress is made. It is looking like this project may be more involved that I counted on so maybe I should tell you what my problem REALLY is. I recently had the car painted and now there is a ridge of paint along the edge of the windshield rubber between the car body and the windshield.
In trying to reduce this ridge either with fine sandpaper or rubbing compound I keep scratching the paint further out on the body than I want to. So thought removing the windshield (replacing the rubber as long as I had it removed would be a good move . With the windshield removed I maybe could get at the ridge easier and sand it down from the rear.
I have had the rubber (from Moss for some time) and I am familiar with some of their items not fitting properly but figured I could make it work somehow.
The other thing is that I have had the car for 21 years and about the only time I have any problem is when I create them for myself. The car was restored just before I bought it and have on other items found where the restorer was real handy when it came to glueing items where it was not necessary so that could be the prblem with the dash pad. In any event thanks again.

 

[tahoe healey]

Measure the old rubber before you remove it. You may find the Moss is narrower and you may have a space between the new paint and the new rubber seal. Some company seals are actually a little wider than the original and will cover a lot of paint sins.

 

[ron wilson]

Never thught that the new rubber might be narrower than the original. Wouldn't that be a revolting development as Chester Riley used to say.
Thanks for the heads up.

 

[shorn]

I wonder how many of us remember "The Life of Riley"?

 

[Keoke]

SHORN!

The life of who?---Keoke /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

 

[shorn]

Keoke,
You are too young. "Life of Riley" tv series staring Jackie Gleason in 1949-50 and William Bendix in 1953-58 made the "revoltin development this is" phrase a househohld idiom. Gleason & Bendix played Chester Riley,an airplane riveter. Of course, I am not that old either. I just remember my grandfather telling about the show. Yeah sure.

 

[ron wilson]

I just want to let you all know I tried prying on the dashpad to get it to come off and it would not budge.(Thanks Keoke for suggesting it might be glued) as that apears to be the case. Between that and the mention by Tahoe Healey that the new one might be narrower convinced me to give up the idea. At this point I was faced with attempting to pry the thing off and of course break something in the process. So I decided that I can probably get rid of the paint ridge with a razor blade and a moto tool.
Also thanks to Shorn for explaining the Life of Riley comment. I could not remember the years the show was on. It was also originally a radio show sometime in the 40's

 

[Keoke]

HI Ron, Sorry to hear about the dash pad. Give some consideration to using a Hair dryer or heat gun to soften the adhesive most adhesives soften when subjected to heat. There is a small rubber tool available from Pro type automobile paint suppliers called a NUB that will knock the ridge down without damaging surounding paint . East Wood may even carry them but I am not sure.---Keoke

 

[Keoke]

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/savewave.gif Ron;
Im glad someone recognized that fella "Riley" Shorne was talking about .He must have been aroumd long before Amos & Andy cause I din't recognize his name.- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif---Keoke /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/driving.gif