Question for the paint pros

[bnw]

I will be getting my wings and doors back from media blasting next week. What are my options for priming them ASAP? Do I need an epoxy base primer or can I just cover them with my sand and fill primer?

 

[hondo402000]

I would wipe the panels down with grease and wax remover, prime first with metal etching primer, let dry(based on the manufacturers instructions, then a 2 part epoxy primer. anything thats not 2 part will let moisture get thru it over time if you dont shoot the color coat soon. 2 part epoxy primers you can leave with out color almost indefinately

Again, make sure you use the same manufacturers products all the way thru the process., and the metal etching primer has an open time that you must shoot the primer coat or you have to scuff the surface of the MEP

MEP metal etching primer
2PEP 2 part epoxy primer
BC base coat
CC Clear Coat

And if you have any body work, like plastic filler, read the instructions, some can go on primed surface, some have to go on bare metal

Hondo

 

[TFB]

I am no pro but would recommend you go with one system,beginning to end.
I dont think etch primer is needed with epoxy,at least not the ppg dplf(direct to meal lead free) epoxy I am using.
I would go over everthing with 80 grit by hand or DA,wash with soap and water,then do the wipes for degreaser and prep.

Lots or interesting reads on the net,but I think Macysgarage.com has a nice write up about painting a front tr3 valance that covers the whole process.
and as mentioned decide if you want basecoat clearcoat or single stage urethane.These systems components, the ,filler,galze,primer will be 2 part.
I wouldnt worry to much about the open window time,as you will probably be sanding between coats anyways,although it can be an issue for hard to get spots,like underhood supports etc.
Realising I like mechanical work more than body work,
Tom

 

[bobhustead]

I'm no paint pro, but my "experience" painting mine required consulting with a number of knowledgeable people.
I agree that you should apply a two part epoxy. Southern Polyurethanes is a good one that is cheaper than PPG. In any case, before applying epoxy you will need to thoroughly wash soda blasted surfaces with dish detergent and water and thoroughly rinse. Otherwise the baking soda residue is purported to gradually soften the epoxy and cause lifting and peeling. What are you doing for topcoat?
Bob

 

[Marvin Gruber]

I'll give my rec for the two part epoxy primer as well. I have metal etched a couple of cars before the epoxy primer but that was only because I wasn't going to paint the car right away and there was a lot of rust in the car as well.

Marv

 

[CJD]

Good paint is expensive. Cheap paint is expensiver in the end!

That's my experience!

John

 

[bnw]

Some day, in a galaxy far far away, I will be finishing the exterior in Signal Red lacquer. The tub interior, floors underside etc are already completed in single stage enamel.

 

[TR3and6]

Speaking of paint (a good segue into my question.)
I am trying to find touch up paint for my white 1976 TR6 Code 19.
Neither Moss Motors, TRF or VBC seem to carry it anymore.
I have tried locally to see if any auto paint suppliers could help, with avail.
I live in the Hilton Head DC area.
Any ideas?
Tr3and6

 

[PKPoole]

I know that any Sherwin-Williams Automotive Paint Store (probably one in Charleston) will mix any color you want in a spray can. If you car is factory color they can look up the paint mix. I would suppose other auto paint manufacturers with local stores would do the same. Good luck.