New set of lug studs and stripped spines....

[F1LOCO]

So I know why the previous owner did what he did - it's a mess. The spines in the hub plates (front and rear) where the lugs go in, are stripped - or at least 1/2 of them. Suggestions? No one seems to sale reman TR4 hubs anymore. Do I buy a set of lugs and weld them in from the back? Heat cycle issues? Good news, about to pull the trigger on bolt up rims...not to get the hubs straightened out.

On the rear, if I remove the 6 or so bolts the plate housing, will the hub part "pull off" to do the repairs, or do I have to drop the entire axle and take it somewhere to press the entire units out in one piece?

 

[Geo Hahn]

...On the rear, if I remove the 6 or so bolts the plate housing, will the hub part "pull off" to do the repairs, or do I have to drop the entire axle and take it somewhere to press the entire units out in one piece?

Removing those 6 bolts will allow removal of the half-axle with the hub attached. They should have locking tabs on them. There will be some spacers -- save them noting which ones go with which side. On reassembly you need to set the end float on each side but if you reuse the spacers in there now with the same axles the float may be fine.

The rear hubs can be separated from the axle -- but it ain't easy. A search will reveal techniques and alternatives.

If you do remove the axles you will probably want to replace the seal inside the axle housing. If you separate the hubs there is another seal that should be replaced as a 'while I'm in there' thing.

 

[F1LOCO]

Don't suppose anyone knows the correct stud sizing and knurl size? If the existing holes seem "splined" or "grooved" but a couple are "smooth" should I be concerned about trying to drive another knurled stud into them? I know the TRF sales a "kit" of 16, but don't know if they will work if I got issues on the proper size holes on the hubs. Will I need a press of some kind or can they be "tapped" in with a mallet or ballpin?

What about tapping the hub and threading the hole, and screwing in from the back a hardened 7/16-20 shoulder bolt at the correct length (which I still haven't found)? Pitfalls?

 

[JerryVV]

Call Scott Harper at Team Triumph in Warren, OH. He will have good used front hubs with studs either for Wire Wheels or Solid Wheels. 330-392-7176. You can discuss rear axels with him at the same time. He comes in after 11:00AM most days and not in on Saturdays. Good Guy with lots of TR stuff and very reasonable. I think that will be your least expensive and safest route to take.

 

[Geo Hahn]

Time to sit down and take a stress pill?

AFAIK --

The original rear studs are threaded in and peened on the backside.

The front studs are pressed in from behind (knurled).

Some report using these as an alternative:

Dorman #610-114

...and state that the hole must be reamed out to 9/16". They also state that the resulting stud is longer than original at 1 21/32" but that may be a good thing in your case.

Let me stress -- I have not done this -- merely repeating what I have seen mentioned here in the hope it gives you some less drastic options.

This is the thread I gleaned this from: Stud Advice

I need hardly mention that these are 16 of the most important parts on the car so you'll want to get an assortment of advice & experiences and carefully weigh your options.

 

[DougF]

I reamed mine to 9/16. Making certain the the holes are drilled straight is essential. My reamer was quite expensive, so going the route suggested by Jerry VV could be the most economical.

 

[F1LOCO]

Thanks for the feedback. I may game on the TR4A set from Roadster as the solution. Just can't get them or anyone to confirm the knurl diameter to be sure they are bigger than 7/16, but I would assume they are as that's the stud diameter...Just hope I can squeeze them through w/o removal of the rear hub....

Good news, ordering the Silverstone II's in gray/gunmetal...should look great on the Primrose Yellow...

 

[TR3driver]

They also state that the resulting stud is longer than original at 1 21/32" but that may be a good thing in your case.

With alloy wheels and "closed" nuts, though, you want to be absolutely certain that the nut does not bottom on the end of the stud.

FWIW many years ago I tried drilling out the holes in a rear hub and installing splined studs. Might have worked better if I had had some way to put a chamfer on the hole, but I was 1000 miles from home and had only rudimentary tools available. Anyway, the hub was so hard that the splines did not cut into the hub at all and just sheared away. I wound up having a replacement hub (and halfshaft) shipped to me.

 

[F1LOCO]

They also state that the resulting stud is longer than original at 1 21/32" but that may be a good thing in your case.

With alloy wheels and "closed" nuts, though, you want to be absolutely certain that the nut does not bottom on the end of the stud.

FWIW many years ago I tried drilling out the holes in a rear hub and installing splined studs. Might have worked better if I had had some way to put a chamfer on the hole, but I was 1000 miles from home and had only rudimentary tools available. Anyway, the hub was so hard that the splines did not cut into the hub at all and just sheared away. I wound up having a replacement hub (and halfshaft) shipped to me.

thanks for the positive words of encouragement... :laugh:

 

[PeterK]

Mine are done with the Dorman studs on the rear. I had a machine shop enlarge the hole and press in the knurled studs. It was inexpensive.

As far as the front, they are already press in. So bang 'em out and pull 'em back in with a nut and washer.

 

[Geo Hahn]

Mine are done with the Dorman studs on the rear. I had a machine shop enlarge the hole and press in the knurled studs...

Did you have to separate the hub to do this?

 

[DougF]

The Dorman 610-114 mentioned earlier is the stud I used. With a 9/16" hole, it pressed in nicely. If the current studs are stripped, I wouldn't use new studs of the same size.

I suggest you consult with a machine shop if you want to install new studs.

I didn't have to separate the hub to do this. Things worked out very well for me as the reamer I used was a work sample that happened to be the right size. The reamer/borer self centered and allowed the work to be done with the rear hubs on the car. An added note...I had a spare set of hubs available...just in case.

 

[Jerry]

Pulling the stud in with a nut can stretch the stud. Could be a problem. Better to have them pressed in!

Jerry