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justin_mercier
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If I remember correctly, I used 3.
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TR6 My TR6 Project
- Thread starter Scot1966
- Start date
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OP
Scot1966
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I had a day off today so I was able to get the passenger side of the frame all patched and ground flush. This side was tricky - the tail end of the frame was very sensitive to the welding. I had a piece of angle iron clamped down the length of the frame ending at the back edge. I monitered the drop closely, making sure it stayed equal to the other side. The ends if the frame are within 1/16" of each other, so I think I am in the clear because everything I've read says there is 1/4" of tolerance in the frames.
This is the last mess I have to clean up before I can the trailing arm mount welded in.
This is the last mess I have to clean up before I can the trailing arm mount welded in.
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Scot1966
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Well it has been a week, but I finally got in the garage today. I finished welding the 2nd trailing arm mount in. Here are a few pics of the process.
First I spent a couple hours grinding and fitting the outside of the frame to accept the mount. I think I must have flipped the frame over at least 6 times during the day!
Here is the jig I made to make sure I had the right angle before tacking it up...
Then welding complete...
Next up is the lower "T Shirt". Good Night
First I spent a couple hours grinding and fitting the outside of the frame to accept the mount. I think I must have flipped the frame over at least 6 times during the day!
Here is the jig I made to make sure I had the right angle before tacking it up...
Then welding complete...
OP
Scot1966
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Although this car will not likely see any more water, (while I own it anyway) unless I get caught in the rain sometime, I don't like bare unpainted metal to metal contact. I used POR-15 to coat the frame, and underside of the T-Shirt where they will be welded together. Notice the small strip of the old T-Shirt I left at the rear. The new Moss T-Shirt does not come with the rear reinforcement, so it will be welded to the old piece. Luckily it is in good shape...
I made the reinforcement plates for the front differential mounts out of 1/8" stainless. They got the same POR-15 treatment before I weld them in.
I made the reinforcement plates for the front differential mounts out of 1/8" stainless. They got the same POR-15 treatment before I weld them in.
OP
Scot1966
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I found a hood off a '74 on the local Craigslist for a good price. My original hood is in good shape on the outside, there is rust around the areas where the hinges mount. I had planned on repairing it, but for the price, the new hood saved me alot of time !
This is the area on my original hood that is rusted
This is the area on my original hood that is rusted
OP
Scot1966
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I decided to cut off what was left of the upper T-Shirt and weld the top one on first so I could get to the inside and duplicate the welds that the factory had. I am happy with the results...
I use the small cans of POR-15 because I usually use them up before they dry out. They are perfect to have around. Very fitting name, don't you think ?
One last coat of POR-15 before I weld it together tomorrow...
Good Night Everyone....
I use the small cans of POR-15 because I usually use them up before they dry out. They are perfect to have around. Very fitting name, don't you think ?
One last coat of POR-15 before I weld it together tomorrow...
I did the same work to my 76 TR6 frame about 20 years ago. At that time the replacement frame parts were not available so all replacement frame parts were reverse engineered and parts formed from sheet stock.
I would advise you to look closely at the factory welds for the front suspension. The factory welds were poor so with a little grinding and re-welding completed the frame work.
Another step you may consider is having the frame shot peened instead of sand-blasting. This will stress relieve the frame from earlier driving use and welding. I had my frame shot peened prior to applying the finish. For finish, all that was available when painting my frame was zinc-chromate followed by black enamel frame paint. Zinc Chromate was a very nasty product to use… health wise. The frame has held up very well since the repairs were completed. Other TR6 owners that have driven my TR6 comment about the lack of frame flex in mine as compared to theirs.
I was trying to locate my copy of the Triumph factory performance booklet that indicates the reinforcement welding needed for the front suspension. The 76 frame did not require front suspension reinforcement parts added as the earlier TR6 frames. The Triumph performance booklet also has very good information about engine, cylinder head, and camshaft data as well as horsepower curves for each modification.
I would advise you to look closely at the factory welds for the front suspension. The factory welds were poor so with a little grinding and re-welding completed the frame work.
Another step you may consider is having the frame shot peened instead of sand-blasting. This will stress relieve the frame from earlier driving use and welding. I had my frame shot peened prior to applying the finish. For finish, all that was available when painting my frame was zinc-chromate followed by black enamel frame paint. Zinc Chromate was a very nasty product to use… health wise. The frame has held up very well since the repairs were completed. Other TR6 owners that have driven my TR6 comment about the lack of frame flex in mine as compared to theirs.
I was trying to locate my copy of the Triumph factory performance booklet that indicates the reinforcement welding needed for the front suspension. The 76 frame did not require front suspension reinforcement parts added as the earlier TR6 frames. The Triumph performance booklet also has very good information about engine, cylinder head, and camshaft data as well as horsepower curves for each modification.
OP
Scot1966
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I defininitely will go over the front suspension before blasting. I noticed a couple cracks in the factory welds around the shock mounts. So it will get a thorough going over.big6 said:
I'd never thought of a stress relieving the frame, but I like the idea! At work, almost everything we make gets sent out for stress relief, so maybe they won't notice if a TR6 frame is on the truck with the aircraft parts!? Seriously, I don't know if there is anyone in my area who does shot peening, but It is worth looking into. Thanks for the info!big6 said:
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Scot1966
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Is been a while since I posted, so here's a quick update. The frame has been POR15'd, the trailing arms have been cleaned back to aluminum, goodparts adjustable brackets, urethane bushings front and rear, seals in the differential, seals and gaskets in the transmission, the engine has been taken apart and re-assembled ( gaskets and seals, thrust washers ), Nickle/copper brake lines and fuel lines, brake hoses.
The chassis is together basically waiting for the tub. The tub has had sheet metal repairs....new floors, rockers have been repaired, battery tray, and many small rust spots have been repaired. Today I started the last thing to do to the tub before getting it ready for primer ; the rear valance. I got the old valance off, and all the mating surfaces have been prepped. There were many spot welds to drill and alot of grinding to clean the old spot welds !
The chassis is together basically waiting for the tub. The tub has had sheet metal repairs....new floors, rockers have been repaired, battery tray, and many small rust spots have been repaired. Today I started the last thing to do to the tub before getting it ready for primer ; the rear valance. I got the old valance off, and all the mating surfaces have been prepped. There were many spot welds to drill and alot of grinding to clean the old spot welds !
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OP
Scot1966
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I fit up the three pieces that make up the tail light panel today. ( Nothing is welded yet, just checking the fit with the wings before welding). I am happy to say it all goes together well. The fit of the British Heritage inner lower valance is impressive. All the holes for the fasteners line up. The outer valance is NOS so the fit is good, as I would expect. Now to treat the backside of what I can't get to later, and weld it up.
Ed - Feel free to stop by with that beautiful spot welder !
Ed - Feel free to stop by with that beautiful spot welder !
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Would if I could, Scot. I'm confident you'll find a way. It's looking really nice!
Ed
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