Highway Driving

[SaxMan]

After 10 months of driving the Sprite, I finally dialed up enough courage to take the car out on the highway. It was remarkably smooth, able to run at 65 mph while turning 4,000 rpm, which still left me enough of a reserve to pass someone if needed. I found overtaking SUVs in adjoining lanes a scary proposition as you could see that you're not getting picked up by their mirrors being so low to the ground.

One thing I did notice as the car got closer to 70 mph was that it felt like it was starting to "float" and the steering did not feel quite as precise. I know the car does have a little bit of play in the rack at dead center, so I'm wondering if that is what I'm feeling -- which wouldn't be a bad thing as it means the car is tracking straight as an arrow and I'm keeping the wheel right at the dead spot. The other possibility is an aerodynamic one -- that as I go faster the front end wants to lift and the "floating" that I'm feeling is the front end coming up. It's not a bad feeling, just one I really hadn't experienced before.

 

[58Custom]

Had mine up to 95 today, no lifting. Don't sweat it. Do some more freeway driving and it will feel more and more normal as you get used to it. You have the 4.22 rear, right?

 

[SaxMan]

I'm really not sure which rear I have. Is there a letter code? I know there is the jack up the car and rotate the rear tire to see what the gearing is as well.

 

[58Custom]

Check this link. https://www.mgexp.com/article/midget-rear-axle-knowledge.html
I did and notice that the 4.22 was used until 1968, which is later than I thought. The 3.9 is a good upgrade for highway driving but you have to switch to a later speedometer.

 

[JPSmit]

I might add that the greater concern for me over 75 MPH, the issue isn't a light front end, it is the pucker in the seat base.

 

[HealeyRick]

Nothing like seeing your Spridget's reflection at eye level in the shiny hubcap of an 18 wheeler. Funny, as much as I've driven my Bugeye on the highway, I still look at Smart cars and say "You'd have to be crazy to drive one of those on the highway."

 

[nomad]

Had mine up to 95 today, no lifting. Don't sweat it. Do some more freeway driving and it will feel more and more normal as you get used to it. You have the 4.22 rear, right?

Tom, have you got the Datsun drive train fitted? I know a guy that got his 1098 up to that speed.....just before it blew!

 

[58Custom]

Tom, have you got the Datsun drive train fitted? I know a guy that got his 1098 up to that speed.....just before it blew!

Yes, it's in and operating. So far so good. I recall in a thread you once mentioned that your Datsun engine vibrated at idle a bit more that you expected. Is that just normal?

 

[nomad]

Yes, it's in and operating. So far so good. I recall in a thread you once mentioned that your Datsun engine vibrated at idle a bit more that you expected. Is that just normal?

It may be but I blame most of mine on the motor mount arrangement I used. I've got another ready to go into my driver and am planning on using the stock Datsun mount on the right side. The one I'm driving use's a MGB mount on the right and stock spridget on the drivers side. I'm sure you will end up doing a bit of sorting but I put in 300 mile's Sunday right at 80 MPH and up to 85 when I hit So Dak highway's. Didn't check MPG but at those speeds its usually in the low 30's.

Kurt.

 

[SaxMan]

I took Baby Blue back out on the highway this evening. It was definitely more comfortable for me. The "float" that I was feeling is from the play in the steering at dead center. That's actually good news, as it means the car is tracking straight. It felt surprisingly stable even when passing (or being passed) by 18 wheelers.

The one thing I did notice was the faster I went, the more the speedometer would bounce, and it seems to lose accuracy at higher speeds. The speedometer was indicating 70 mph, but I was just maintaining the pace of traffic in the right hand lanes. I'm thinking that the cable just might need to be lubricated. Is that possible without pulling the dash? I know the speedometer is accurate at lower speeds, as I passed one of those "Your Speed Is" street signs and we were dead on.

 

[nomad]

I believe you can undo the speedo cable at the speedo and pull the inner drive cable out. It should come easily if nothing is wrong with it. I then clean up the cable and let it soak over night in engine oil coiled inside a 5 gallon bucket. Wipe off the excess and slide it back in. May have to turn it some to get it to engage. Might not cure anything with the bouncing speedo but is good for the longevity of the cable.

Shouldn't be any play in the steering rack and might be worth having someone turn the wheel back and forth while you investigate.

Kurt.

 

[SaxMan]

I jacked up the front end this evening and had Mrs. Saxman turn the wheel back and forth. I found the source of the play: The steering column is two pieces: One piece coming off the steering wheel forms a sleeve around the second piece coming out of the rack. The outer sleeve has about a millimeter of play (if that) over the inner piece in either direction, which translates to a "dead spot" on the steering wheel at dead center. I'm not sure it's worth the fuss to fix this, unless it is a simple case of cranking down on the sleeve with a vice grip.

On the upside, once you get past that play the steering mechanism is very tight and precise. I did notice that my rack boots were torn and I put a bit of oil where the steering shaft meets the rack, as well as a bit of grease on the rack itself. Since this car is not operated in foul conditions, how critical are the rack boots?

 

[Jim_Gruber]

In '68 a collapsible steering column was mandated by U.S. Laws. That 1mm of play could be in the pinion gear, easy to replace in the pre' 72 racks. It it could be the nylon bolts, actually nylon rod melted in place as a pin to connect both halves if the steering column has started to come apart. It is fixable and someone will post a How To I'm sure. I replaced the pinion gear on my '68 and along with front end rebuild, 4 Peter C's shocks it all went away and I all of a sudden gad go cart handling. And the rack takes oil not grease in those fittings.

 

[Billm]

If the play is where the steering column attaches to the rack in a spline then it is REALLY important to tighten that bolt that clamps it tight!!! DON'T DRIVE ANY MORE IF THAT BOLT IS LOOSE!!!! I have had it spin on me when it hadn't been tight and I about had a load in my pants (at the very least) !
BillM

 

[SaxMan]

The bolt where the steering column attaches to the rack is fully tightened. That's where I checked first. The loose part is what Jim said..part of the collapsible steering column. It's certainly not a huge detraction to the car's handling. Out on the highway, the car tracks so straight that I find myself in the "dead spot", which felt disconcerting, but I've gotten used to it.

On the rack, what weight oil?

I, too have four of Peter C's shocks all around Baby Blue, and yes, it handles like a go-kart. I run out of nerve before I run out of car, which I guess is probably better than vice versa..

 

[Jim_Gruber]

IIRC the technique involves drilling out the plastic / nylon essentially rods and replacing with a similar material and heating to melt into place. I do know I sold a spare '68 column I had to Alan Fischer frogeye@cox.net. Now he was moving to NH last year and his email nay have changed but I know Frank C had cone up with a technique to tighten up that joint to reduce play. Someone else will chine in this morning and remember.

 

[Sarastro]

Nothing like seeing your Spridget's reflection at eye level in the shiny hubcap of an 18 wheeler. Funny, as much as I've driven my Bugeye on the highway, I still look at Smart cars and say "You'd have to be crazy to drive one of those on the highway."

I had a Smart Car for five years, and the most common question I heard was whether I drove it on the freeway. Of course, I did. I can't see any reason why anyone would think this is strange. It has adequate performance and is as tall and visible as a sedan. Just shorter front-to-back.

On the other hand, I drove my Bugeye on the freeway only once, and that was because I got stuck in an entrance lane I couldn't get out of.

 

[SaxMan]

I measured the play at the steering wheel rim -- it's only about a 1/4 to 1/2 inch. I figure it's not worth the fuss unless I am doing other repairs to the front end / steering or the play gets more significant.

 

[Jim_Gruber]

Part of that could also be wear on pinion gear and rack. Steering and brakes very important. Be sure if you make a change in the bolt that connects steering column that you use a new metal Nylock/locknut. That is a one time use only. There is a dimple on mtge pinion gear shaft that the bolt needs to thread through. Needs to be a specially hardened bolt, correct length, and a correct locknut. I'll look if I get a chance fir the procedure to fix steering column. Was not a tough fix but would involve pulling the column to fix IIRC.

 

[SaxMan]

Pinion gear and rack were in good shape. Once the steering got past the play from the collapsible column, everything was smooth and no other play was evident.

My winter project for this year on Baby Blue is going to be upgrading the interior...new seat covers, foams, getting behind the dash to fix a couple of items, so maybe I'll knock out the steering column repair when I do that.